Well, it's already October and I am way behind on posting my notes. I determined to catch-up this week and also plan the rest of the year, agreeing that we will close-our 2018 in Southern California.
Wed. 7-25-18
With a few days off, we decided to visit Missoula, for some
exploring and relaxation. Missoula, nestled on the Clark Fork River, in the
Rocky Mountains of western Montana, has lots of history and interesting
attractions.
Fort Missoula, an 1877 US Army post, established during the
Indian Wars, is now a historical park, and large Parks and Recreation complex.
We liked the old buildings and the shady, tree-lined avenues.
University of Montana and Mount Sentinel; the University is
set at the foot of Mount Sentinel, with a constant view of the enormous “M” logo,
up on the mountain slope. Prehistoric, horizontal, wave-cut shorelines of ancient,
glacial Lake Missoula can be seen on the mountain slopes. We toured the
beautiful campus and perused the impressive academic and athletic facilities.
Caras Park on the Clark Fork River, in downtown Missoula,
is a popular outdoor attraction. We walked the river-trail, talked to kayakers
and bicyclists, and admired the clear, cold, swift Clark Fork River. We met a
young man who is bicycling from the east coast to Astoria Oregon. See him on
Fb: Ride for Life 2018.
Historic Downtown was fun to see, with its historic
buildings, nice parks and landscaping, and loads of attractions. Missoula is a
Salish Indian name referring to the abundant trout in the rivers or the cold
water. It’s at the confluence of the Bitterroot (south) and Blackfoot
(northeast) Rivers, with the Clark Fork River, where five valleys intersect. Last
evening, we walked up the slope, by our campground, for a grand sunset and had
a nice overlook of the valley, with its surrounding mountain ranges.
Southgate Mall was a cool retreat from the midday sun. We
walked, shopped the Mall and had a nice lunch, at the food court.
Saint Frances Xavier Church immediately reminded us of the
Mission Valley, Saint Ignatius church. Now we know, it was built and finished
by the same Jesuit Brothers.
Friday, July 27, 2018
With a little Missoula investigation and research, we
elected to visit the Smokejumper Center, National Museum of Forest Service
History, and the Boone and Crockett Club.
At the Aerial Fire Depot and Smokejumper Center, we learned
about smokejumpers and wildland fire management. On a guided tour, we were
astounded by these incredibly dedicated folks, who fight wildfires, using the training,
tools and equipment at the depot. Yes, they jump from a perfectly good airplane
into an inferno, to fight the conflagration. Also, by tradition, they maintain
and repair their own equipment. They do hire and train parachute packers, who
must make a certification-jump, using a chute that they themselves pack. Talk
about a serious performance-review!
Our greatest surprise was finding a 1959 Smokejumper, from
Progress, in the veterans’ honor roll. Yep, it’s public record! Wincel E. (Dubby) Raborn was a Missoula
Smokejumper. Also found John McMahon (Bud’s cousin) who was a smokejumper too. This
visit was another example of how a small, elite group of people accomplish
amazing tasks in saving lives and property. Talk about unsung heroes!
At the National Museum of Forest Service History, it’s a
story about dedicated people who encouraged a whole new way of thinking about
our country’s rivers, mountains, grasslands, and forests. Conservation is now
an American tradition, making us stewards of our public lands, for the greatest
good. Good visit, interesting, educational, and inspirational!
For lunch, the Montana Club serves scratch-made entrées of home-style
cooking, where comfort and Montana style meet. It was a soooo good lunch!
After lunch, we visited another conservation tradition, at
the Boone and Crockett Club. Founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt, after a
trip out west, it’s dedicated to protecting wild land and wildlife
conservation. Located in the historic, Renaissance Revival style, Missoula
railroad depot, the Club is an outstanding attraction. For outdoorsmen, it’s
worth the trip to Missoula, just to see it! Yep, they have the world-record
whitetail! (and many other full-mounts) Unbelievable!
We had a good time in Missoula and learned a lot about the
area. The weather was great, the attractions interesting and educational, and the
architecture and landscaping were admirable.
Thursday, August 2, 2018
My Montana interests this summer owe a great deal to the
many people (locals and visitors) that I have met and conversed with. Gaining a
better understanding of Montana antiquity was initially an interest but we
spent more time just exploring around. However, I was never able to completely
dismiss it, and eventually realized that it was something that I really wanted
to do.
One of my goals is reading, research, and exploring the
history of a given area, during our seasonal work assignment. This summer has
been special because Montana is a special place, with a long history, even if
most of it is not recorded. The earliest people came the area ten-thousand
years ago. Native American oral history totally rejects the concept of their
coming via the “Bering Land Bridge”, claiming that the “Creator” put them here,
long before. Regardless, the written history is divided into two distinct
sections; (before Lewis and Clark) and (after Lewis and Clark).
The following books have been my reading selections for the
summer:
Montana Curiosities
It Happened in Montana
David Thompson; A Life of Adventure and Discovery
Forty Years a Fur Trader on the Upper Missouri; The
Personal Narrative of Charles Larpenteur
Montana’s Historical Roadside Markers
Tribes and Trappers
My last book just happened to be one that brings it all
together, by exploring the geology, geography, anthropology, and politics of
Montana. Geology has proven that the eastern Montana Plains were an ancient
seaway, bordered by lush, green, jungle-like forests. Abundant marine and
dinosaur fossils are still being discovered. Dinosaurs were plentiful in
Montana and the most fossils are found here.
I have gained a greater appreciation for the Native
American story too. Everything in US history has had an effect on Native
Americans. Early eastern US settlement pushed Native Americans west, displacing
Indians that had been here since ancient times. By 1800 nearly all Native
Americans had moved to new ground. The Crow, Cheyenne, Blackfeet, Assiniboine,
Gros Ventre, Kootenai, Flathead, and Pend d’ Oreilles remain a presence in
Montana. The famous Shoshone people of Sacagawea, sadly, no longer have a
presence in Montana.
In the early 1800’s US expansion, exploration, and the fur
business brought more disease and hardships to the Indians, with men like Lewis
and Clark, followed by Fur companies, Manual Lisa, John Colter, Jedediah Smith,
and Jim Bridger, to name a few.
In conversations with Indians, it’s obvious that they’re
still trying to find their place in Montana. They hold on to their traditions
while slowly assimilating into American culture.
The most interesting story, is a hungry Indian refusing
pork from the US government. When pressed, he responded, “we Indians view
Whites eating pork, like you Whites viewed us eating dog”. So, you better know their
ways, when dealing with Indians!
Opportunely, Montana is the first State in America that has
a constitutional law requiring that all students learn about the distinct and
unique heritage of American Indians.
Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Regardless of the smoke from the Pacific Northwest fires,
we decided to make a three-day visit to the Kootenai River, in NW Montana. We
took a nice campsite at the Woodland RV Park in Libby. Our objective was to
visit the Libby Dam, Lake Koocanusa, and Kootenai Falls. The smoke was an annoyance
but did not “steal the show”!
At Libby Dam, we explored the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
Visitor Center, a very pristine, interesting, scenic, and educational site. The
gigantic concrete structure dams the Kootenai River (ancestry home of the
Kootenai Indians), to form Lake Koocanusa, situated in the USA and Canada. The enormous
lake was a cooperative project between Canada and the USA, to dam the Kootenai
River for flood control, recreation and hydroelectric power. In an obliging
effort, the designated name honors the Kootenai
Tribe, Canada, and the USA; Lake Koocanusa! My favorites were the mountain views, the birdwatching,
and the sky-blue lake views. A remote
and beautiful place!
Overlooking Lake Koocanusa, along the east shore and the
west shore, a circuitous route connected by the dam and a bridge, provides
access and stunning views of the lake. We highly recommend this not-so-traveled
destination to enjoy and reconnoiter!
Exploring Kootenai Falls, a thundering, whitewater
attraction, sacred ground to the Kootenai people, is a natural and geological
feature. Scurrying around the rocky ledges of the gorge, and crossing the high
swinging bridge, we saw fishing Osprey, giant trees, sheer rock walls, and
tumultuous pools. The entire area is refrigerated by the cold, cascading water
and spray of the river. Our favorites were giant Western Red Cedars, wildlife,
the obvious evidence of an ancient sea-bed and the enormous forces of plate
tectonics, in uplifting and bending the massive layers of rock, from horizontal
to vertical. WOW, a must-see place!
Also, Libby is an inviting, small-town Montana experience, a
place that radiates a classic, rural Montana lifestyle. This bucolic area of NW
Montana is abundant in natural wonders and well worth the visit! Blast the
smoke, we had a ball!
On this trip, we resolved a question that every driver in
Montana ponders. If you have driven in Montana, no doubt you have noticed the
“white crosses” placed at the sites of highway fatalities. The crosses are
placed and maintained by the DOT, through a supportive effort led by the
American Legion of Montana, in an ongoing determination to remind drivers to
“Please drive carefully”. Many families place wreathes and other decorations,
which serve as a memorial. They are a sobering reminder of a fatal traffic
accident, a place where a human being lost his/her life.
Saturday, August 25, 2018
We completed our assignment at West Shore State Park and
headed for a visit with Terry’s folks in Oklahoma. It was melancholy to leave
our summer friends and associates at the Park but we were also excited about
traveling. We headed south, down the Mission Valley, to Missoula and then
followed up the Clark Fork River to lunch at Deer Lodge. We saw the old Montana
Territorial Prison, which looks like a medieval stone castle (with concertina
wire). Deer Lodge is situated in a high valley, encircled by picturesque
mountains. We drove around town and discovered a nice walking trail along the
Clark Fork River. Over the summer, we explored NW Montana fairly extensively,
so our current objective is to make our way down to Columbus, Montana, and take
a new route down to Yellowstone.
Continuing east, we stopped at Butte, for a campsite. The
campground afforded nice views of the Silver Bow Valley. We also enjoyed the
hiking trail along Blacktail Creek. Butte has suffered from the mining industry
but is capitalizing on tourism because of the history and architecture in
town.
On Sunday, we headed east, crossing the Continental Divide
at Homestake Pass, then down to Three Forks, confluence of the Madison,
Jefferson, and Gallatin Rivers, and the headwaters of the Missouri River. Following
up the Gallatin River for a while, we then arrived at Bozeman, crossed the
Bozeman Pass, and joined the Yellowstone River at Livingston. Following down
the Yellowstone River, we headed south at Columbus, to Red Lodge and a campsite
on Rock Creek. Red Lodge coal mining attracted European miners and the town
still reflects this cultural influence. A Crow Indian Chief, an original
inhabitant, had a red teepee, thus the name “Red Lodge” stuck.
Beginning at Columbus and continuing to Yellowstone via the
east entrance, will be a new route for us. Tomorrow, we take a day-trip ride over
the Beartooth Highway, a curvy and high route to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone,
at Cooke City.
8-27-18
Today we had breakfast and headed to the Beartooth Highway.
With rain, fog, heavy clouds, and low visibility, we resigned the switchbacks
at 8-thousand feet and headed back to Red Lodge. We were disappointed but
that’s the nature of high Montana mountains. We were told that the Pass had
snow, so we were glad we didn’t go on up. Next time! We were glad to get back
to the warm, dry places in town!
Tuesday 8-28-18
Departing Red Lodge, on a cool, clear, frosty, blue-sky morning,
with coffee, we took MT308 over to Belfry, and then, headed south on WY120, up
the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone. At the Wyoming line, we left the River and
cut down to Cody, for lunch and supplies. Being in Cody is like going back in
time. It’s just an old-west town, with a western attitude! From Cody, we took
US14, following up the N. Fork of the
Shoshone River, into the east entrance of Yellowstone National Park.
Shoshone River, into the east entrance of Yellowstone National Park.
This was a totally new route for us and it was stunning! Between
Red Lodge and Belfry, we traversed some amazing terrain. Up, down, and around hills,
we saw the Smith coal mine, site of the famous disaster. One things that
strikes me about western, abandoned mines, is that the old buildings and
equipment are deserted. They make no attempt to salvage anything.
Along the route, we saw obvious glacial evidence in the
form of U-shaped valleys, scarred rock, and moraines. We researched moraines
and learned how to determine the various types of moraines that we encounter.
(A fascinating phenomena) The lower Clarks Fork valley is a pastoral scene with
sprawling ranches and neat, colorful agricultural crops, all irrigated by the
Clarks Fork and shadowed by the rugged Beartooth Mountains. In the valley, we
saw Sand Hill cranes, Pronghorn, and lots of birds, but no “new sightings”. The
Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone takes its rise in the Beartooth Range, near
Cooke City, Montana, and flows in a horseshoe-shape, through NE Yellowstone
Park, dipping into Wyoming, and then along the east Beartooth Range, into
Yellowstone River, at Laurel, MT. The upper Clark Fork flows through one of the
deepest, most remote (Wyoming) canyons in the U.S.
Entering east Yellowstone Park, we cruised over Sylvan Pass
(8,541’), along Yellowstone Lake, to Fishing Bridge. Along this stretch, we saw
Bison, Elk, Bluebirds, Deer, and some high overlooks of Yellowstone Lake. Far,
on the distant shore at West Thumb, we could see the steam rising from the
thermal vests. Crossing over the Yellowstone River, around the West Thumb, and
then down to the south entrance, we had terrific views of the mountains and
lakes. We took a campsite at a campground just south of the Yellowstone and
Teton Parks, in Buffalo Valley, on a tributary of the Buffalo Fork River. This
valley affords some spectacular views of Tetons and the valley. The Aspens were
turning orange and yellow, making a floral design with the Conifers, on the
high mountain slopes. This route was awesome and we highly recommend it!
Wednesday, August 29, 2018
After laundry and chores, we headed down to Jackson Hole,
for lunch and some sightseeing. The usual tourist crowd was about, but smaller
numbers this late in the season. We enjoyed Jackson and did our shopping, then
headed to Grand Teton Park.
Cruising from Moose Junction to the headwaters of the Snake
River, we kept a sharp eye for wildlife, but the valley and sagebrush flats (did
see Pronghorn) are now too dry for feeding. Our main attention today was the
glacial moraines and observing how the Tetons rise tersely from the west valley
floor, towering to snowfields and lofty heights, very abruptly. The jagged
peaks and deep canyons are magnificent views, which provoke wonder. Powerful
geologic forces continue to shape this youthful landscape. Jenny Lake, and Jackson
Lake were beautiful, crystal-clear water, with the clear blue sky above. The
Jackson Lake Dam was busy, with fisherman trying to catch a big-one,
coming up the Snake River. Along the headwaters of the Snake River, we observed
very noticeable gold colors of fall. Here, they say there are two seasons,
“winter and getting ready for winter”! We
had a real nice day with some amazing sights!
Thursday, August 30, 2018
On our second day to visit Yellowstone, we focused on a deeper
investigation of some familiar marvels. At Moose Falls, on the Lewis River, just
upstream from its confluence with the Snake River, we had an undisturbed
experience with nature. The evergreen smell, waterfall, quaking Aspens, and
massive stone boulders all had something inspiring to say! I’m always amazed at
granite boulders and how they weather-down into round jumbles of gigantic,
monkey-bread-like masses. Leaving here, we saw an Elk with twin calves.
Next, we visited Lewis Falls, on the Lewis River, just
south of Lewis Lake. We walked the trail upriver for some spectacular sights,
sounds, fragrances of nature, and astonishing volcanic evidence. Here, is found
massive exposures of obsidian beads, incorporated with layers (striations) of
basalt. The black, glossy beads have been weathered and worn from the sarsens,
and the ground is blanketed with the tiny, black, lustrous, glass beads. As I
gathered a sample in my hand to photograph, a lady asked what they were and I
just replied that it happened long ago, on a very hot day!
At Lewis Lake, the water was clear and cold, and almost
transparent, a remarkable body of water. We had a nice picnic lunch and walked
around the area. Large conifers around the lake provide shade and afford
surprise views of the lake, from around the shore. We saw those noisy, clicking
grasshoppers here, seasonally common and impossible to miss. Ironically, our
picnic was too cold in the shade and too hot in the sun. Another drastic
contrast we discovered on an August day in Yellowstone!
After lunch, we visited the West Thumb Geyser Basin and
walked the entire boardwalk trail system. The pools were all unique, with
splendid color and varied hydrothermal activity. Some were boiling, others
steaming, and some bubbling. The colorful bacteria along the outflows ranged
from ochre, orange, and black depending on the water temperature. Sometimes the
very thought of being in this giant caldera is a bit unsettling. We learned
that West Thumb is a splendid winter Otter-viewing area. The thermal vents
create open-water on the frozen lake, facilitating excellent Otter fishing
spots. Winter in Yellowstone would be amazing! Very interesting visit!
What are you favorites; hot springs, geysers, hot travertine
terraces, fumaroles, or mudpots? It’s all so captivating, stunning, and
overwhelming!
Friday, August 31, 2018
Heading south today, we left frosty
Moran Junction and made it to Rawlins.
We crossed the Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass(9548’), in the
Absaroka Range. Sweeping vistas of the craggy, lofty Teton Range are visible, in
the distance, from the western slope of the pass. Immediately, down the eastern
slope, we caught the headwaters of the Wind River and followed it down to
Crowheart. On the Wind River Indian Reservation, Crowheart is named as a result
of a battle over hunting grounds. Chief Washakie of the Shoshone defeated Chief
Big Robber of the Crow. Washakie cut out Big Robber’s “Crow heart” and stuck it
on the end of his lance. Talk about a stiff penalty for “hunting without a
license”!
The Wind River and Wind River
Mountain Range are fascinating to me. The eastern slope of the Wind River Range
is dry, with Sage, Rabbit Brush, and other low-growing, high-plains vegetation.
Lots of Rattlesnakes too! The Pronghorn browse on the Sage and there is plenty
of it! Irrigation from the river facilitates contrasting green fields in the
valley. Long before settlement and land reclamation, natural irrigation along
the river banks produced a green-belt that still exists today. I saw some
notable Cottonwood trees where Chief Washakie may have climbed or basked in their
shade. Along the river, we observed some towering red-sandstone precipices that
were stunning. The history, geology, hydrology, and ecology all make a
fascinating story. Words and pictures can not describe it!
My favorite encounters today
were:
Lots of Pronghorn
National Bighorn Sheep
Interpretive Center at Dubois
Ice Slough
Fort Washakie
Lander is where the first paid
rodeo took place
Split Rock
Windy Gap
Bairoil
Great Divide Basin (lots of
sand and sand dunes)
We took a campsite in Rawlins
and had a windy, but peaceful night.
Saturday, September 1, 2018
After a good breakfast and
dog-walk, we shopped Rawlins City Market for supplies, then headed for Walden,
Colorado. We detected petro-chemical odors well before we saw the Sinclair
refinery. So that’s where a lot of Wyoming crude goes to be refined!
Heading south, we encountered
the North Platte River, at Saratoga. We remembered the hot springs from years
past and decided to visit again. Saratoga has totally renovated the springs
area and now they have a swimming pool, visitor center, walking trails along
the North Platte River, and of course the original hot spring (104 degrees). It
was a hot day, so we vetoed the “hot spring soak”. We explored the landmark,
had a picnic lunch at the Park and then continued south.
This is a very scenic route
but it’s closed in winter. There are some ranches along the route, so I guess
they have to snowmobile in winter.
At Riverside, the Encampment
River is the main attraction and the small river-town would be a great get-away
place. The Encampment River, a tributary of the North Platte River, runs
through an impressive canyon, just upriver from Riverside.
Cruising on down to the
Colorado line, we had some terrific views of the Medicine Bow Mountains. We
were reminded of the hike we made to the Medicine Bow summit, some years back.
We could still do it but it would be too risky!
In Colorado, we took a
campsite at Walden, the only town in Jackson County, and yes, it’s the county
seat. The area is sparsely populated by “real cowboys” from large ranches. When
they come to town, it’s obvious that they live way-out on dusty, washboard roads.
They were very friendly to us and we always felt welcome in town and country. Walden
is situated in a high mountain Valley (8800’), called North Park. North Park
gets its name from being the northernmost of three large mountain valleys (or Parks)
in Colorado. The others are Middle Park and South Park respectively. We are
very familiar with Colorado after living here and exploring it extensively for
summer and winter sports. Near the campground is a U.S. Forest service facility
with maintenance shop, bunkhouse and horse stables. Feeding around the horses,
we saw a large flock of Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Robins, and Brewers
Blackbirds.
At the Walden High School, one
block east, a high school football game was going on. I struck-up a
conversation with a young alumnus and he answered my questions. I learned that their
school days are held Monday-Thursday and on Friday the kids are off to help on
the family ranches. Saturday is game day (the school has no field-lights),
and it’s six-man football. Walden has 13 players on the team. Unfortunately,
they lost to Cotopaxi!
On Main Street, there is a
popular restaurant and painted on the glass picture window reads; “You’ll go
nuts over our oysters”. Yep, they do serve “mountain oysters”, not something I
wanted to try. It did inspire me to wonder about their supplier. It there a
“mountain oyster” vendor. I’ve never seen it in stores or advertised on
television! We had two relaxing nights in Walden, very quiet for Labor Day
weekend!
Sunday, September 2, 2018
After breakfast, we departed
Walden and cruised on down to a campsite at Kremmling, Colorado. The route was
scenic and we recalled traveling it many times when we lived in Colorado. On
the west, we got a good view of the towering twin megaliths that mark Rabbit
Ears Pass, on the Continental Divide, some 25 miles distant. On the east, we
could see Rocky Mountain National Park, 28 miles away. The high Aspens and
valley Willows were gold. The hay fields of valley ranches were cut clean and
the new haystacks are ready for winter. We saw haystacks of large round bales, small
square bales, and large rectangular bales, hay for every requirement. South of
Muddy Pass, clouds were building on the east side of the of the mountains. Soon
we saw streaks of rain falling but evaporating before reaching the ground. This
is a common, high-elevation spectacle seen on the eastern-slope, rain shadow of
mountains ranges. It soon passed and was sunny again.
Kremmling is situated in the
Colorado Middle Park, a high basin (8,000’) on the southwest slope of Rocky
Mountain National Park, headwaters of the Colorado River.
On this trip, we have often
started a sentence and run out of breath before completion. We spent the
Montana summer at 5,000 feet, but Wyoming and Colorado have carried us to much
higher elevations, and we often feel it. I have formerly, in years past,
suffered altitude-sickness several times, on 14-thousand-foot Colorado
mountains, so I know to stay hydrated, avoid overexertion, and adjust my pace.
However, extended periods at 7 to 12-thousand feet can abruptly ambush you. The
best cure is descending to lower elevations. Not fun! We felt if but thankfully,
no problem!
Monday 9-3
Continuing our
ride-to-Oklahoma, we decided to spend a couple of days at Rocky Mountain
National Park. We found a pleasant campsite at the Winding River Resort, on the
Colorado River, just a mile from the Grand Lake entrance. The Winding River
Resort, an extensive ranch, offers every conceivable mountain experience
possible. They have guides, outfitters, and gear to meet your every need. They
also offer excellent lodging accommodations, from RV sites, cabins, and even
covered wagon camping. We highly recommend Winding River Resort for a vacation
destination. They have such an extensive offering and schedule, that a week to
10 days is necessary to experience it all.
This visit, to Rocky Mountain
National Park, after a number of years, is just as exciting as our first. We
drove through Grand Lake Village and the old-west-style village was chockfull
of tourists. Looking past that, it is a charming spot, on gorgeous Grand Lake.
At the Kawuneeche Visitor
Center, we were impressed with the video, dioramas, wildlife specimens,
publications, and Ranger-information, introducing visitors to the Park. On this
visit, our goal was to focus on the Park, west of the Lava Cliffs (12,183’) and
the western slope of the Continental Divide. The Alpine Visitor Center, with
its stone and log buildings, and stunning, panoramic views, was a special treat
too! We could see the Medicine Bow Mountains, Never Summer Mountains, Gore
Range, Mummy Range, and most of Middle Park today. We got to explore (on the
trails) Montane, Subalpine, and Alpine ecosystems, along the Trail Ridge. The
Park is awesome and we had a fantastic visit!
A special treat was an
up-close observation with two Elk and their calves. We had some exhilarating
short hikes and of course the Trail Ridge Road was electrifying. With sudden
weather changes prevalent, we were fortunate to accomplish our goals early and
come down, before a mid-afternoon thunderstorm moved in and made hazardous
conditions.
Wednesday, September 5, 2018
Heading for a visit with Dave
and Diane at Woodland Park, we backtracked from Grand Lake to Kremmling, then
caught CO 9 south to Fairplay, in South Park. Our favorites along the route were;
Byers Canyon- An 8-mile Colorado
River gorge between Hot Sulphur Springs and Kremmling. All along the canyon
walls, you take in views of the dramatic rock formations that stretch toward
the sky, featuring intricate details and craggy peaks. The Union Pacific
Railroad’s, Moffat Route train tracks, follow the same path.
Blue River Valley- Believe it
or not! The Blue River runs down the western side of the Continental Divide and
is diverted to the eastern side of the divide. The Roberts Tunnel is a
trans-basin diversion, built by Denver Water in 1962, that diverts water under
the Continental Divide from the Colorado River basin into the South Plate River
Basin. Yep, water is a big deal here! I wonder if animals or people ever get
swept into that frightful tunnel!
Silverthorne/Dillon/Frisco-
Old mining town with a new look! Now they’re mining tourist dollars, with exclusive
restaurants, winter skiing, summer sports, and expensive real estate.
Breckenridge- More tourist
mining! I was disoriented here because CO 9 has been totally rerouted to
accommodate development.
Hoosier Pass (11,539’) – This
is a steep, narrow pass between Breckenridge and Fairplay, (in South Park)crossing
from the Colorado River Drainage to the South Platte River drainage. The pass
is located on the Continental Divide at the northern end of the Mosquito Range.
A hard pull (dog-gear up) and a robust push (Jake-brake down)!
Mt. Lincoln- This (14,286’)
mountain was totally snow covered above tree-line, and it’s new snow. It was
cold at the summit of the pass!
Middle Fork South Platte River-
Rises on the southern slope of Hoosier Pass, and remnants of old, placer, gold
mining operations can still be seen. It enters the South Platte River, in South
Park, near Fairplay, flowing on over, through Denver.
On this trip we encountered
the North Platte and the South Platte Rivers. They were so cold and clear that
it’s hard to believe they’re the source of the Platte River, out on the plains.
It’s often said that the Platt River, out on the plains, is “too thick to drink
and too thin to plow”!
Sept 6 Thur.
From Fairplay, we headed down
South Park and took US 24 over to Woodland Park, for a visit with Dave and
Diane. South Park, on a cool, sky-blue day, was very scenic, surrounded with
the snow-capped mountain ranges. We saw Pronghorn, birds, and Fall colors in
the Aspen groves. At Wilkerson Pass (9,567’), we stopped off at the Visitor
Center for some panoramic views of South Park. The hosts were from Waco, Texas
and he was a Baylor Basketball alumnus.
At Dave and Diane’s, in
Woodland Park, we had an excellent visit, enjoying some scrumptious meals, shopping,
entertainment, hiking, Barbeque at Rudy’s, and just relaxing at home.
Terry and Diane attended the
home-show at Denver. We visited the Mining Museum, Colorado Springs, and
enjoyed a fine day-trip leaf-peeping day at South Park, Buena Vista, and
Marshall Pass. Another day, we visited Cripple Creek and attended the Mountain
Repertory Theatre for their production of “Always … Patsy Cline”. Located in
the historic Butte Theater, it was like attending an 1880’s performance!
We especially enjoyed our Mueller
State Park, night-hike to listen for the bugling Elk. We had a fun-filled week
in Woodland Park! Dave and Diane are good friends and we always enjoy visiting
them!
9-15-18 Saturday
Today, we traveled from
Woodland Park to Canyon City, and took a week at Royal View RV Resort. We
headed west on US 24 to South Park, then CO 9 to Canyon City. The Aspen are in
prime Fall-color, radiant gold in the green Conifer forest of the mountain
slopes.
The campground is near the
Arkansas River canyon and provides an admirable view of the canyon and the
Royal Gorge bridge.
Sunday 9-17-18
On a warm day, we explored
Canyon City, had lunch, and shopped. In the afternoon, we drove the Skyline
Drive, a narrow, Dakota red-rock, razorback ridge or “hogback”, with sheer
drops on either side. Scary but sweeping vistas overlooking the Arkansas River
Valley.
Monday, September 17, 2018
Another warm day, a high of 98
degrees, we explored Canyon City and did some real estate shopping. We toured
some homes currently on the market and were surprised at the prices of used
homes. We especially liked the neighborhood along the “hogback” but most are
tri-level, not suitable for us. Also, any below-ground level homes need “radon
gas” ventilation systems to be safe.
Tuesday, September 18, 2018
Today, we’re touring-around
with Diane and Dave. They drove down for a day-trip visit. First, we drove up
the shelf-road, one of Fremont County’s historic roads, which connects Canyon
City and Cripple Creek. This old mining-route is a high, narrow, and
challenging gravel road, with a sheer drop on the creek side. The area is a
year-round destination for rock-climbers, with a wealth of cliff options. Not
for the timid but has fantastic views.
In the afternoon, we explored
Red Canyon, taking a hike up the eroded-gulch, with amazing red rock formations
and vertical spheres. As the canyon narrows, it blocks out the sun and the cool
canyon walls provide nice air-conditioning! Formed 290-296 million year ago,
it’s a geological smorgasbord of igneous, metamorphic, and sedimentary rock.
The canyon walls have “striations” of shale, limestone, sandstone, mudstone,
conglomerate, gneiss, quartz, and a bedrock of granite.
9-19 Wed.
At the Royal Gorge this
morning, we discovered how much it has changed since our last visit. The entire
Royal Gorge venue is owned and operated by Canyon City. The Royal Gorge Bridge,
America’s highest bridge, at 1000 feet above the Arkansas River, is a
heart-pumping experience and a breath-taking landscape. Since our last visit,
they have added a “skycoaster”, and “ziprider”, which I would not get near. Resulting
from a 2013 wildfire, the Visitor Center and venue buildings were all rebuilt
and are very attractive and accommodating. The “gondolas” are even off my radar
now! There’s still lots to see and do without these thrill-rides! If you do it
all, bring a lot of cash. Entrance is $27 and rides another $65. Lunch can run
about $20. My favorite is the free rim-trail. For some stunning views of the
gorge, bridge, Arkansas River, Tunnel Trail, and Canyon City, the rim-trail is
superb.
In the afternoon, we visited
the Colorado Prison Museum. Canyon City, Colorado is a place in the U.S. where
prison defines the culture of the area around it. The Colorado Territorial
Prison began in 1871 and prisons became the economic foundation for Canyon
City. Now,13 prisons, one of which is Supermax, the new ‘Alcatraz’ of America,
dot the landscape around the Arkansas Valley. They have a prison for every need
and they have an interesting “Prison Museum”. The museum is located in a former
prison cell-block and has all sorts of curious things associated with “life
behind bars”. They say it’s safe in the area, because “bad guys” don’t want to
be anywhere around these prisons!
Thursday, September 20, 2018
We started with Starbuck’s
coffee and pastries, followed by a ride down-along the Arkansas River, to
Florence and Penrose. Florence is an antique mecca with unremitting antique
shops along main street. Penrose is a cow-town with lots of ranches around. My
favorite was the green-belt of Cottonwoods and other trees along the river. On
our return to Canyon City, we drove through the irrigated farms, fields,
orchards, and vineyards in the river valley. We had a great day in the Arkansas
Valley! You can’t add days to your life but you can add life to your days!
Colorado is a good place to do it!
Friday, September 21, 2018
Today, breaking cloudy and
cool, we decided to hike the tunnel trail, an extension of the Canyon City
Riverwalk. The trail is an old water-delivery system (late 1800’s) for Canyon
City. It runs from Canyon City, up the Arkansas River gorge, almost to the
Royal Gorge Bridge. It passes through the historic tunnels, over bridges, and along
steep drop-offs, and following upstream to the old water intake. It provides
scenic views of the river, gorge, Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, and side
canyons, (home of Bighorn Sheep) as it traverses up the gorge.
We met Dave and Diane for
lunch at the Cayote Den in Penrose, followed by some shopping at a local “apple
farm”. We had a fun afternoon and enjoyed the fall weather.
Saturday, 22nd Day
of September, 2018
With Tulsa Oklahoma as our
destination, we ended our week at Canyon City and traveled to Clayton, New
Mexico, putting Colorado in our rear-view-mirror. Along today’s route, we saw
many herds of Pronghorn and lots of fall-colors. It’s mating season and Pronghorn
adult males either defend a fixed territory that females may enter or defend a
harem of females. We had no problem spotting the dominate male in every herd.
The mountain views and river
valleys were very scenic on a clear-blue day. We crossed Raton Pass and it was
“Welcome to New Mexico” “the Land of Enchantment”!
It’s Chile roasting time and
that refers to roasting of green chiles, most commonly occurring during harvest
season, in autumn, throughout Colorado and New Mexico. The commercial roasting process,
done at purchase, usually involves an operator taking the part as “chile
roaster” which involves standing near and turning a cylindrical cage drum over
propane-fueled flames, ensuring the chile pods are heated on every side, as
they shed their skins; this ensures the chile skins blister appropriately, to
allow for easier peeling of the chile. This process is the most popular method,
since the smell has become a staple during the early New Mexican autumn, it
offers a physical display of the chile, it offers the sound of the chiles
crackling, the sight of the blistering and falling skins, accompanied by the
widely distributed smell of the roasting peppers. YUM!
Horno-roasting the chiles,
while done less often, is a traditional method of roasting the chile. A more
common method is simply roasting over an open flame on gas stove-tops and
grills. Any method means mouth-watering aromas and visions of Chile rellenos,
enchiladas, burritos, and other scrumptious Mexican entrees! Hatch, the
favorite chilies, come from the Rio Grande’s, Hatch Valley, near Hatch New
Mexico.
Crossing the High Plains of NE
New Mexico, between Raton and Clayton, we were astounded by the Capulin Volcano
National Monument, a U.S. National Monument located in northeastern New Mexico,
that protects and interprets an extinct cinder cone volcano that is part of the
Raton-Clayton Volcanic Field. The large volcanic field surrounding the monument
contains at least 100 recognizable volcanoes, and aids visitors in gaining
insights into 10 million years of the geological history of northern New
Mexico. About 60-thousand years back, these volcanos blew hot lava over the
area for miles around. You can see the resulting piles of basalt all over the
surrounding Plains. It’s unimaginable to envision these massive blasts,
launching bombardments, globules of molten lava all-around! This would make a
great action movie! “The day she blew”!
We took a campsite at the
Clayton RV Park. It’s a cool, clear, windy night. The RV Park is in a quite
area and good for resting.
Sunday, September 23, 2018
Notable observations today
were:
Left Rocky Mountains behind us
Entered the high plains of the
west Texas panhandle. Founded in 1901, Dalhart is named for its location on the
border of Dallam and Hartley counties; its name is a portmanteau of the names
of the two counties.
Crossed part of the old
3-million-acre XIT Ranch
Lots of those round
(pivot-irrigated) agricultural fields
Lots of grain elevators for
corn, millet
Lots of cotton fields
Crossed the Texas hills
heading south to Amarillo
Alibates Flint Quarries
National Monument supplied Natives for 13-thousand years
We took a campsite at the Big
Texan RV Park in Amarillo. The Big Texan runs a notorious, Texas-style “steak
house” down the road and they provide free limousine transportation to the
restaurant.
Monday, September 24, 2018
We spent the morning at the
Amarillo Mall and ran errands around town in the afternoon. It was a hot day,
with traffic, so we appreciated the air-conditioning!
Tuesday, 25 September, 2018
Move around the country, and
there’s always a surprise nearby! We decided to take two days at Palo Duro
Canyon State Park, second only to the Grand Canyon. The “Grand Canyon of Texas”
(Not sure where Boquillas Canyon rates) is just SE of Amarillo. Palo Duro,
“hard wood” in Spanish, is covered in Mesquite, Juniper, Hackberry, Willow, and
Cottonwood, and likely, very large trees in the past. Water is still present
and periodic flooding can be a serious concern. A cold-front brought rain
overnight and the trails and washes are muddy today.
Wildlife is abundant,
bird-watching is fascinating, and wildflowers are plentiful. Palo Duro Canyon
is a place where erosion has shaped the land and a place where one can enjoy
the beauty, sights, silence, and sounds, found only in such a remote place. This
afternoon, we watched a Roadrunner using his fascinating hunting-skills to
catch grasshoppers. During the day, we observed lots of Monarch butterflies,
obviously going about their migration ritual.
The canyon is about 120-miles
long and was formed just under 1-million years back. The erosion exposes a
geologic story of about 250-million years, revealing a panoramic view of
magnificent color and silhouettes. The canyon’s archeological and ethnological
evidence suggests human habitation of 12-thousand years.
The Native American occupation
ended with the 1874 Red River War. The Kiowa, Comanche, and Cheyenne were
driven out and in came Charles Goodnight (1876) with a bunch of cows. Goodnight’s,
JA Ranch grew to 1.3-million acres, supporting 100-thousand cows. Over-time,
the Ranch was sub-divided and now the Park’s public land is just over
27-thousand acres.
The Park has a nice Visitor
Center on the north rim, and a steep-descent-road to the Canyon floor. The Park
maintains campgrounds, trails, picnic areas, cabins, shelters, and bridges,
many facilities built by the (1933-1937) CCC Companies. Pioneer Amphitheatre,
on the canyon floor, presents “Texas”, an outdoor historical and musical drama,
offered annually, each summer.
We have enjoyed the Geology,
Flora, and Fauna of the canyon. We highly recommend this Park! An
outdoor-vacation destination, well worth the drive from anywhere in the U.S.
9-27/9-28
Spending Thursday and Friday
in Oklahoma City, we had good weather to visit the Oklahoma State Capitol and
Bricktown. The State Capitol Building is undergoing a refurbishing but the
guided-tour was very informative and enlightening. The impressive dome and
murals told a historical story of Oklahoma. Also, the robust materials,
represented many areas of the State and nation. For example, beautiful
limestone and traditional glass came from Indiana, while many other fine
materials came from around diverse Oklahoma.
Bricktown is Oklahoma City’s
prime tourist-draw, the renovation of an old warehouse district, into
fashionable shops, alluring restaurants, and momentous attractions. Bass Pro
Shop and a new Baseball Stadium are a prime-anchors for Bricktown, which has a
new trolley line to transport you around the entire district. This is an
attractive and entertaining venue!
9-29-18
On Saturday, we took the
Turnpike over to Tulsa and a visit with Terry’s folks. It was College Football
game day and the Turnpike was busy with traveling fans. We had a nice weekend
with Terry’s mom and the family. Ila came over from Lawton for the weekend and
we enjoyed visiting with her and Baskerville (her big doggie)!
Now, for the next few weeks,
we will remain with Jeanne, while the others travel to Vermont for a visit with
Mandy and Seth. We’ll also use this time to do some catch-up maintenance and
winter-planning. Currently, we have warm days and cool nights in Tulsa. It’s
fairly windy every day but the humidity is high. My skin is improving after
being very dry all summer in NW Montana and the high elevations of the Rocky
Mountains.
Our first responsibility in
sitting with Jeanne is to administer her medications, prepare meals, and meet
her appointments. She has an accessible
van, with restraints to secure her chair, in travel. Yesterday, we met her
appointment at the Indian Hospital in Claremore. Afterwards, we had lunch and
toured Claremore. My favorite was the Will Rogers State College campus. Also,
we enjoy trips to shopping, restaurants, and attractions around Tulsa. I’m reading
some selected books on Oklahoma history and points of interest, and, as always,
making lots of surprising discoveries. Every state is unique and I never tire
of learning about them!
