Continuing our Fall 2019 Journey to Lake Cahuilla at La Quinta, California

Friday, October 4, 2019

The day brought cool and clouds, not a deterrent to our plans to cruise US 191 on down to Vernal, Utah. South of Rock Springs, US 191 opened up to an amazing vista of painted rocks, buttes, and canyons. The Green River is the soul of Flaming Gorge, cutting through the rugged, red, rock to craft deep canyons. Constrained by Flaming Gorge Dam, the river becomes Flaming Gorge reservoir, spreading out and painting over the reds, yellows, and greens of the land, with blue. At an overlook, we stopped, and the ground melted away into a vast remote colorful landscape. Over the miles, we followed the road as it descended into the surrounding canyons and valleys, only to discover more canyons and valleys below. Driving down these red rock “stairs” of southern Wyoming, we entered Daggett County, Utah.

Crossing the Uinta Mountains, we admired vast groves of golden Aspen above 8500 feet. The mountain air was cold and windy but very refreshing. Out next thrill was the switchbacks leading down to Vernal. Just north of Vernal, there's some serious switchbacks. For nine miles, there's five to eight percent grades through ten switchbacks. I had the dog-in and jake-on but still did some brake-burning! The lower switchbacks wind through the Simplot phosphate mines, an amazing example of mountain-eating mining operations.

At Vernal, we did lunch, shopped Walmart and fueled-up. Finally, we drove 13-miles east to Outlaw Trails Campground, at Jensen, Utah, the gateway to Dinosaur National Monument. In late afternoon, the predicted weather front moved in and we had wind with 40mph gusts. Fortunately, by 9pm, it was calm and clear, making for a quiet night’s rest.

Saturday, October 5, 2019

This morning was cool and crystal-clear, with cobalt-blue skies. Outside, we immediately noticed migrating Sand Hill Cranes, passing high in the sky, heading north toward the Dinosaur National Monument. We naturally wondered what was attracting the Cranes.

After breakfast, we trekked out on a day-trip of the Dinosaur National Monument. Along the route, beside the Green River, we discovered the Cranes feeding on those round, pivot-irrigated corn fields, just south of the Park. Now, we had our answer!

At the Park, we checked-out the comprehensive Visitor Center, a very attractive building, perfectly set in the natural surroundings. We drove the Tilted Rock Tour, our first visit since we lived in Colorado, 31-years ago. This stunning Park is a spectacular display of geologic faults, folds, uplifts and colors in 32 rock layers, exposing 4.6 billion years of earth history. We saw petroglyphs, old homesteads, Bighorn Sheep, and the layers where the largest known Jurassic Dinosaur fossil beds are located. We have noticed that places we revisit after 30 years, are more impressive and comprehensive. It was a great-day-in-the-park!

Sunday, October 6, 2019

Terry’s notes this cool, clear morning:

In 1993 my mom and dad drove a small car filled with camping gear to Alaska. My dad was in his 70’s and my mom was in her 60’s. Tent camping. Mom kept a journal of her trip which I just read in its entirety.  I don’t know why I didn’t read it while she was still living.  We could have discussed it. I really regret that.

In her journal she wrote about going to Dinosaur National Monument in Utah.  While there they visited Josie Morris’ Ranch (look this up because she was a very interesting woman) which is in the monument.  We were not far from there so we made a trip to Dinosaur to drive to the ranch where Mom and Dad camped, had their picture taken next to a dinosaur femur, took a long walk at Josie’s ranch and found some petroglyphs.  I took these photos to share with my siblings.

I enjoyed watching the migrating Sand Hill Cranes this morning! Yesterday, we discovered that they are feeding on cornfields just north of us. Flying over in the morning air, they sound just overhead but they can be quite a distance away. The sound carries well, especially in the cool, morning air.

On a walk this morning, I saw this White Oak in a landscaped atrium. A rare sight in the west, and a real treat to see it with great Fall colors!

Monday, October 7, 2019

US 191 in Utah is an eastern Utah route, which is composed of several Scenic Byways. Driving south on US 191, a Utah Scenic Byway, we traversed the Uinta Mountains, with spectacular Fall colors, on the Uinta Scenic Byway. Crossing the Ute Reservation, we followed the Indian Canyon Scenic Byway, a narrow canyon with steep sides and multi-colored layers of rock. The route also passes through the Ashley National Forest, a land occupied and hunted for centuries by Native Americans, before the arrival of Europeans.  

At Roosevelt, initially part of the Ute Indian Reservation, opened up to homesteading in 1905, later became a vast oil reserve, so now the settlers have nice oil revenues to support their ranching habit. Pumping oil wells dot the area, amid the canyons and ranch lands.

In September 1776 The Dominguez–Escalante Expedition came from the east where they crossed Blue Bench and descended into the valley north of the present-day town of Duchesne. I read the Expedition Diary of Escalante this summer and the attractive valley, rivers, and geography are much as he described it. Ironically, Escalante’s notes were what later brought the hunters, trappers, and settlers to the area. Loved seeing it all in the Uintah Basin!

Around Wellington, we passed along the Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway, and the Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry. Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry at Jurassic National Monument contains the densest concentration of Jurassic-aged dinosaur bones ever found. Their unanswered question; How did the carcasses of so many animals end up in one place, and why are most of them carnivores? Who knows what dinosaurs were thinking?

We stopped for a break at Helper, Utah, named for a train engine. This is the heart of the coal-mining area and railroad DRGRW history. A dusty little historic town in the Price River canyon, trying to reinvent itself.

We crossed the Price River several times as we followed it on down toward its confluence with the Green River. From Vernal, south to Green River, Utah, we parallel the Green River but little access exists as it flows through Desolation and Gray Canyons. Desolation Canyon is a remote canyon on the Green River in eastern Utah,  that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is said to be one of the remotest areas in the contiguous United States. Having read the 1869 Powell Expedition journals this summer, these canyons remain unchanged by manmade structures.

In late afternoon, we arrived at Green River, Utah, closing the loop that we began here, late last April. Fortunately, the summer fruit stands still had those famous “Green River” melons and we made a few variety selections. So sweet and juicy!

The beaten path, it gets you there, but for those to whom the reward is in the journey, there are paths less trodden. A great route!

10-8-19 Tuesday

We decided to continue south on US 191 and make a two-day camp at Blanding, Utah. From Green River to Blanding, the highlights were the Colorado River crossing, Moab, Hole in the rock, Wilson Arch, and Church Rock. The route continued very scenic and we had lunch at Moab. Moab, lingering very busy with tourists, motivated us to continue south, following a picnic lunch from City Market.

This area of Utah is the Trail of the Ancients, set amid the canyonlands and dramatic desert landscape carved by the Colorado River. We admired the huge, flat-topped mesas, arches, towering rock pinnacles, remote canyon mazes, Native American ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs, and stunning Fall colors. Blue Mountain RV Park in Blanding, Utah is a great base-camp for exploring SE Utah and the four-corners area.

10-9-19 Wednesday

We made a day-trip to Natural Bridges National Monument. At the Visitor Center, we enjoyed the audiovisual program about the geology, history, and wildlife of the Park. We drove the nine-mile Bridge View Drive, for a great overview of the canyons.  Descending into the canyon, we hiked the canyon trail and admired the natural bridges created by water erosion. We took a picture at the same arch where our Swedish friends posed with us 28 years ago. The term “dugway” is found on maps of the area and it provoked my curiosity to research it; The name "Dugway" comes from a technique to dig a trench along a hillside to keep a wagon from tipping. With the terrain of the area, now I understand!

From Bridges, UT 276 journeys to the Glen Canyon Recreational Area and northern Lake Powell. A ferry-crossing takes you across the Colorado River to Bullfrog, Utah on Bullfrog Bay. We have visited on the Capitol Reef side and elected to return to Blanding on UT 95.

We loved the adventure and the route!

Thursday, October 10, 2019

With a cold-front moving in, we did maintenance, laundry, and planning research all day. The day was sunny and clear but brisk, cold wind kept outside activities to a minimum. Snow is forecast for the north of us but we will just have cold weather. Good reason to stay put!

Thursday night was really cold, we drained our plumbing to winterize, so we were safe from freezing, but our heaters ran all night. Daisy resisted going out but we bundled-up and put her winter coat on. We were glad to see the sun on Friday! Saturday is much warmer and the forecast is predicting warmer temperatures for the week. With the scenic area and cold weather, we decided to extend our Blanding camp to six days.

Saturday, October 12, 2019

College football is the major attraction today! Just hanging-out, watching college football and enjoying snacks.

10-13-2019 Sunday

Stayed at the camp and did chores, research, relaxed, watched TV.

Monday, October 14, 2019

Travel plans today take us from Blanding, Utah to Tuba City, Arizona. This entire route is very scenic, with a wide variety of sights. We crossed mesas, canyons, desert plateaus, and followed rivers, along red rock canyons.

At Bluff, Utah, we explored around and were stunned by the cliffs and the river valley. Bluff is situated in the San Juan River canyon, surrounded by towering sandstone cliffs, rising directly over the buildings and homes. Large, house-size boulders are laying around the canyon floor, posing the question of how many have fallen on people. The area was occupied by Native Americans until the Mormons came and took over the land and water. Brigham Young directed the pioneers to construct Bluff Fort (1879) and build their cabins inside the walls to protect against Indians. Next, they built San Juan Mission to teach the Indians how to behave and grow wool and make items to supply a lucrative market.

Mexican Hat has a “Mexican Hat rock” and beautiful scenery along the San Juan River canyon. There’s no mistaking hat rock as it is visible many miles from the little town. It’s looks just like a sombrero on a head.

Monument Valley had perfect lighting and clear air for viewing some of the most stunning works of nature. Just couldn’t take a picture that conveyed the vast display of monoliths sculptured by nature!

Kayenta, on the Navajo Reservation, was our lunch stop. Great views of the distant sandstone formations! We grocery shopped at Bashas' for supplies and headed on to Tuba City. This whole area is Navajo Reservation, the largest land area retained by a Native American tribe in the United States. At almost 17-million acres, 27-thousand square miles, covering part of three states, it’s larger than 10 of the smaller US states. To maintain consistent time throughout its territory, the Navajo Nation observes daylight saving time (DST) on its Arizona land as well as on its Utah and New Mexico land, even though the rest of Arizona, including the Hopi Reservation, an enclave within the Arizona portion of the Nation, have opted out of DST. Lots of confusion!

Tuba City, on Navajo lands, was our campsite. A great, shady campsite near the original trading post. The name of the town honors Tuuvi, a Hopi man from Oraibi who converted to Mormonism. The Hopi village of Moenkopi lies directly to its southeast. We had a nice visit with a Hopi lady who has lived here all her life. She grew up in a Hogan, with no plumbing, electric, or gas. Amazing stories of the Navajo and Hopi life in the area! What a great day!

Wed. 10-16-2019

This morning found us at the Grand Canyon Camper Village, on the south rim, just south of the Visitor Center. Yesterday, we traveled from Tuba City and Cameron to the Grand Canyon via the east entrance. This route traverses part of the Navajo Reservation and the route has frequent shanties and sheds where the Navajo are selling jewelry and other Indian Art items, especially along the Little Colorado River canyon. The Little Colorado River carves a deep, narrow canyon just above its confluence with the Colorado River. The Little Colorado River gorge, part of Grand Canyon National Park is a unique canyon, frequently missed by Grand Canyon visitors. From Cameron, just east of the Park, the Little Colorado River carves an extremely steep and narrow gorge into the Colorado Plateau, eventually achieving a maximum depth of about 3,200 feet, with a spectacular, breathtaking viewpoint on the sheer south wall. This would have been a perfect location for a Navajo Skywalk!

At the park, our first activity was to experience the Grand Canyon IMAX show. We almost got air-sick on some of the segments but it was an exhilarating, informative, and historical presentation. It covered the people-history of the Grand Canyon, from the Anastasi to current times. We cannot imagine how it was filmed in those extreme conditions and locations. The IMAX was a perfect get-started activity for visiting the Grand Canyon!

Wednesday, October 16, 2019

WOW! We spent the day at Grand Canyon National Park and it was perfect. The weather was calm, cool, and clear, making for great visibility. Our plan took us to the Visitor Center and a parking spot. With a picnic lunch, we hiked the rim trail from Mather Point to Bright Angel Lodge. The rim trail was fantastic and our picnic lunch at Yavapai Point, with spectacular views, was scrumptious. A new discovery for us was the two-billion-year-walk, on the south rim trail. There are descriptions of the layers, samples of the rock found in each layer, and one side is cut and polished to reveal its composition. Some look like "gem stones" and they are all unique! The park is celebrating one-hundred years and the canyon is cerebrating 6-billion years. Better hurry, another 5 billion years and it will all be gone!

We took the very convenient bus system back to our beginning point, at the Visitor Center. Today we saw Pinion Jays, Nuthatch, Titmouse, Junco, Hawk, Elk, Ground Squirrels, and the ubiquitous Raven. At the Village, we toured the El Tovar Hotel, and the Train Depot. We are exhausted but our day was picture-perfect!

Thursday, October 17, 2019

Our second day at the Grand Canyon focused on the east side in the morning, and the west, in the afternoon. The morning adventure took us out to Yaki Point. Next, we hiked the Rim Trail from South Kaibab trailhead to Mather Point, at the Visitor Center, where we had our picnic lunch.

In the afternoon, we bused from the Visitor Center to Bright Angel Trailhead, then adventured out to Hermit Rest. Mid-afternoon, got really cloudy and windy but the air was clear, with great visibility. The cloud shadows painted interesting and captivating patterns on the rock walls. The gusting wind, at 7-thousand feet, made us nervous on the high overlooks. At Hermit Rest gift shop, they had a thick book on the people who have died in the park. Probably not a good read but a good reminder that your safety is your business.

Friday, October 18, 2019

After three strenuous days at Grand Canyon, we turned-in early last night and consequently awoke at 5:30AM this morning. We had some Elk and wild horses in the campground early this morning. It made me recall, that we have seen lots of urban wildlife on this trip. In some small, mountain towns we have seen bear, deer, mountain lion, Pronghorn, elk, burro, wild horses, fox, coyote, just hanging-out in the neighborhood.  

Being a traveling day, we walked over for a McDonalds breakfast and then were hooked-up by 9m. We headed south to Williams for Starbucks and Safeway shopping. We fueled-up and took Daisy for a walk in the old town and took pictures of the Old Bill Williams memorial.

Hitting I-40 west was a picturesque drive, (regardless of the traffic) while listening to country music followed by 60’s music, on Sirius radio. At Kingman, we had Friday-Fish lunch at the Cracker Barrel and then pulled in to our campsite at the Zuni Village RV Park. With a sunny, warm afternoon, I switched to shorts and tee-shirt and did laundry. The well-managed campground is in town, with shady trees, cable TV, and nice, clean sites. Looking forward to a quiet, restful night for traveling to Las Vegas tomorrow.

Las Vegas RV Resorts:

Clark County Shooting Complex

11357 North Decatur Boulevard

Las Vegas, Nevada 89131

(702) 455-2000 shootingcomplexinfo@ClarkCountyNV.gov

Arizona Charlies 4575 BOULDER HWY , LAS VEGAS, NEVADA 89121 855-258-3639

Saturday, October 19, 2019

Our Kingman morning was a disappointment because we missed the Starbucks. Declining to backtrack, we drove through the old town on Route 66 and then took US 93 north.

Driving to Vegas was desert but lots of Cholla, Yucca, Creosote, and rocks. We also played a research-the-mines on the Internet game, to determine the object of each mine we passed. At Hoover Dam, we elected to stop for lunch and get in a good hike. It was a “Dam” good hike, with lots of high overlooks and long walks in the facility. We were surprised to see the water level so low, because the Colorado River had some good runoff from the past extraordinary winter snows and spring rains. I was thinking that President Trump should push for more development at Hoover Dam. The dam and facilities are already developed, so it would be easy to incorporate an amusement park. I could easily envision terrifying zip-lines, heart-stopping bungee jumps, roaring skate-board courses, and all sorts of thrilling and lucrative amusement for parents and kids with credit cards and a death-wish! After a few hours at Hoover Dam, we headed north to Las Vegas.

We arrived at Arizona Charlies RV Resort, on the Boulder Highway, just west of the “strip”. We have a great site and close to all the Vegas attractions. We plan to visit friends and kin for a week, or two before we decide on an arrival date for southern California.

Getting set-up on our site, we settled in for college football and a comfortable evening. Our neighbors are friendly and we shared some travel stories, local info, and personal backgrounds. Later, we walked over to the Sportsbook and watched a bunch of college football games, simultaneously on the big screens. 

Sunday, October 20, 2019

We started our morning with breakfast at Arizona Charlie’s, then made some contacts to set dates for our visits with Terry’s kin and some friends. Next, we drove down to the Sunset Station and Galleria Mall to walk, shop, and do lunch.

Many Las Vegas visitors frequent the “strip” and “downtown” and never recognize that Vegas has thriving communities and ethnic neighborhoods, all around the valley. As an example of measure or comparison, there are 16 Walmart stores, splendid shopping malls, and scrumptious ethnic restaurants, public parks and facilities, in the valley. Several websites list the current attractions, so we’ll make a list of our likes. After spending a winter and working in Las Vegas, we now, seldom go to any casino or hospitality industry attractions. Enjoying the sunny, warm days and visiting friends.

Fall 2019 Wyoming down to Utah

“Whiskey is for drinking; water is for fighting!”

Fresh water is an essential western resource, and the battles over water rights in the Western region of the United States can be bruising. Famed humorist Mark Twain is often given credit for this incisively funny remark about water.

Irrigation is the lifeblood of the western states and attorneys specialize in water litigation out west. Irrigation was the first priority of pioneer landowners in the arid west. They dug canals to bring the water from the streams through the valleys and dug lateral ditches to bring the water to the towns and agricultural crops. These irrigation systems have been improved and even incorporated into legal irrigation districts, but in many places the old 1880’s canals and ditches are still seen and being utilized.

Water shortages in bureaucratic systems have long been a source of conflict. State is pitted against state and region against region in the political struggle. The fight will continue as long as water is allocated by politics instead of the market or until the water vanishes.

My interest however, is how the old, original irrigation systems are still effectively delivering water after 140-years. These longstanding irrigation systems are surviving in the old towns and small valleys, where things have not changed much over the years. Just too remote and not much room for growth! You can see water flowing in ditches that are 140-years old and amazingly not much maintenance has been done. Even more interesting is that erosion is generally not an issue. Because of the rocky soil composition, erosion is minimized but sedimentation occurs, requiring some cleaning of the lateral ditches. In the south, a small lateral irrigation ditch would erode into a canyon in a brief period of use. I find western irrigation history and associated irrigation systems interesting and water is only becoming more critical. If the current trend continues water issues will spell an economic end to food and fiber markets in the west and that will be felt by all of us.

Tuesday morning, September 24, 2019

This morning we had a sleep-in at the Fireside Buffalo Valley RV Park in Moran, Wyoming, just south of the parks. For breakfast, we made Chiles Rellenos, finished to perfection in our convection oven.

My first notes must be to recap yesterday’s trip from Wapiti, Wyoming to Moran Junction, via the east gate of Yellowstone National Park. Traveling up the North Fork of the Shoshone River was a very scenic ride. The North Fork Highway, the road to Yellowstone's East Gate, follows the North Fork from Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center all the way to Pahaska. The canyon road is paralleling the North Fork of the Shoshone River and meandering through some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in the nation. As you ascend through the forest, cliffs and narrow columns of volcanic rock carved by water and ice begin to appear on both sides of the canyon. These formations, including Chimney Rock, are the remains of ancient volcanic dikes. Geologically, the section of the Absaroka Range in Wyoming consists of volcanic breccia, whereas there is a transition to granite and gneiss bedrock further north of the state line, into Montana. We observed this transition and the amazing formations that occur from this material.

Entering the east gate of Yellowstone, we continued our climb along the Shoshone River headwaters. As we ascended Sylvan Pass (8530-feet), we encountered snow at 8000-feet but the road had been plowed and was drying in the sun. At Sylvan Pass, we walked around, admired the views, played in the snow, and took a picture. The downhill drive from Sylvan Pass was easy and scenic, with views of Yellowstone Lake, the steam vents, and the Tetons far to the south. We stopped at overlooks for pictures and spotting with our binoculars. There were lots of Bison and some birdwatching. Around Steamboat Point to Fishing Bridge, the road construction made for rough towing but the slow, stop-and-start pace provided opportunity to admire the scenery and wildlife.

At Gull Point Drive, we found a nice picnic spot and had a picnic lunch. It was cool but the sun felt very nice. This location was perfect for our picnic!

Heading on south, through the Parks, we turned east at Moran Junction, to the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River. Fireside Buffalo Valley RV Park will be base for our visits to Yellowstone and Teton Parks.

We love Fall in the Yellowstone Country, there’s always plenty of room to breathe in the cool, clear mountain air, but in the fall, there’s even a little more. Autumn in Yellowstone Country is pure gold. Elk are bugling. Birds are migrating overhead. Hillsides are aflame with tamaracks and rivers are lined with the oranges and yellows of aspen and cottonwood trees. Evening sunlight filters through autumn’s hues. Fall is the time to take a scenic drive, explore, picnic, walk trails, or just sit-and-watch. It’s the time to see the Yellowstone Country in full color.

Tuesday afternoon, September 24, 2019

We made a picnic and headed to Teton’s Colter Bay. Located on the shores of Jackson Lake with the majestic Grand Tetons as a backdrop, Colter Bay is a super-scenic setting. We toured the Visitor Center, then hiked the Lakeshore Trail on Colter Bay and Jackson Lake. The water was so blue and clear, with the Tetons reflecting on the surface, it was picture-perfect. We saw lots of color and splendid views of the Tetons from the east side. We returned to our picnic and then headed back to base camp for a rest after a good hike. It was another great day in Yellowstone Country!

Wednesday, September 25, 2019

Looking for something new, we decided to visit Grand Teton’s, Two Ocean Creek today. Two Ocean Creek is an unremarkable little forest stream in person, but, as you might guess from its name, it's the only creek in America that flows into two oceans.

Anyone who's driven over the Rocky Mountains has probably seen signs for the Continental Divide, the backbone of North America. What the Continental Divide actually divides is watersheds. Everything on its western slope drains into the Pacific, and everything on its eastern slope into the Atlantic. But its most unusual feature might be one little creek in Wyoming, which drains into both.

Two Ocean Creek splits into Pacific and Atlantic Creeks at Two Ocean Pass, along the Continental Divide. Pacific Creek travels southwest into Grand Teton National Park and receives outflow from Two Ocean and Emma Matilda Lakes just before it empties into the Snake River, immediately northwest of Moran, Wyoming. Atlantic Creek flows into the Yellowstone, Missouri, and Mississippi Rivers.

That means that the Continental Divide through the Teton Wilderness isn't a line. Around Two Ocean Creek, it bulges into a whole, high valley over a mile wide. To me, a fan of maps and geography, this is a nice little jewel-of-a-secret of Grand Teton National Park.

After our exploration, we had lunch at Jackson Lake Lodge and later walked the ridge trail for some grand views of the Lake, Tetons, and some Bull Elk. We also encountered a Wildlife Cinemaphotographer, attending the “Jackson Wild Summit” convention at Jackson Lake Lodge. A large gathering of these folks was there for a film festival and meeting. They make wildlife video for documentaries. Gordon, our acquaintance, works for National Geographic. We had an interesting conversation and he was very excited to demonstrate his two-hundred-thousand-dollar video camera. Opportunely, we got to view two Bull Elk through the camera system, which can magnify 90-times.

Glad we went! 

Thursday, September 26, 2019

We arose to a “killing frost” this morning in the Buffalo Valley, not the first here but the first for us. This will be good for the Fall colors but the tender vegetation is going fast.

Today, we head down to Jackson for a five-day stay in town. The sun is coming up over the mountains and beginning to melt the frost and warm the campsite, so we’ll hook-up and move before lunch.

Cruising the 30-miles down Jackson Hole Valley to Jackson was a pleasant drive with spectacular views of the Sage flats, the Tetons, lakes, and the glacial moraines. The warm sun, on a clear day, felt really good in the cool NW wind.

We shopped and resupplied at Jackson, then took our campsite one-block off the Square, at the Kudar Resort. We strolled and shopped the Jackson shops in the afternoon, had dinner and then had an evening stroll around town.

Friday, September 27, 2019

What a difference a day can make! Fall in Jackson turned to Winter overnight! Weather in the high country is unpredictable and can change rapidly, so we’re hoping Fall will return after this weather front passes!

We had a Bar-B-Q lunch at Jackson and then drove around town, with sprinkles, and sun breaking-through periodically, accompanied by a cool wind.

Regardless of the rain, today, we plan to visit the National Elk Refuge, which is really a refuge for all sorts of animals and birds. We hope to see some today! My new word today is “ungulate”, (a diverse group of primarily large mammals with hoofs). I want to see a large herd of Wapiti, of the ungulate class!

We also visited the National Fish Hatchery, which is also located on the National Elk Refuge. We had a very informative, enlightening, and educational guided-tour which was given by a knowledgeable, conversant docent. What an amazing job they do in producing the native fish and providing stewardship of the fisheries.

I also visited the Wyoming Fish and Wildlife Headquarters in Jackson, and enjoyed the interesting displays and materials on Wyoming Wildlife. A very nice building and a pleasant surprise for wildlife conservation and management information.

 Saturday, September 28, 2019

Overnight, rain turned to snow and we got out our winter gear and headed to the Cowboy Coffee Shop. We decided that College Football would be the best attraction for today. Concurrently, I’m catching-up on my stuff-to-remember notes.

Sunday, September 29, 2019

Another wet, cold, snowy day, so we headed to the Cowboy Coffee Shop. We had lunch at the Liberty Burger, a quality hamburger place.  After lunch, we headed to the theater to see Downton Abby. The movie, and settings, costumes were really stunning on the “big screen”!

In the evening, we went for a walk around town and dropped in at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, Jackson Hole’s landmark honky-tonk. It was a great day for inside activities!

Monday, September 30, 2019

We started our cold day at the Cowboy Coffee Shop then took a trip out to the Gros Ventre Slide area. The Gros Ventre landslide (groh-VAHNT) is in the Gros Ventre Wilderness of Bridger-Teton National Forest, on the Gros Ventre River. The massive landslide came down Sheep Mountain, leaving a mile-wide scar. Billions of tons of rock damed the river and created a lake. Several years later the dam broke and now the scar and debris are all that remains. The piles of debris seen today contain large chunks of Tensleep Sandstone, along with remnants of the original forest. It’s a geological wonder to imagine to the power of the landslide.

Today, our trip up and down the Gros Ventre River canyon was very scenic, with Fall colors and river overlooks. We made some pictures and headed back to Jackson Hole. We had a late lunch in Jackson and stayed inside most of the remainder of the cold day.

Tuesday, October 1, 2019

Western Wyoming places of interest today, traveling from Jackson Hole to Rock Springs.

On July 5, 1840, Father Pierre-Jean De Smet offered the first Holy Mass in Wyoming. A monument to the event stands on its site one mile east of Daniel.

Before the present-day town of Daniel, the Green River Rendezvous, a gathering of fur trappers and traders, was held at the site six times, from 1833 to 1840.

At Pinedale, Fossil Butte National Monument, perfectively preserved fossils are found in the flat-topped ridges of southwestern Wyoming's cold sagebrush desert. Baffling to realize that this was once a seabed.

Killpecker Dunes is one of the largest active sand dune fields in North America. The ice-cells are a surreal feature.

Near South Pass, this area was traversed by the Oregon Trail and the Pony Express route.

We could clearly see Pilot Butte where the actual trail ruts of the Oregon, California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National Historic Trails passed the landmark.

At Eden, Wyoming, we witnessed the Pronghorn migration. This agricultural area is a perfect place for the herds of Pronghorn to winter.

At the Little Sandy crossing, on Monday evening, June 28, 1847, Brigham Young and Mormon pioneers met James Bridger and party near this place. Both companies encamped here over night and conferred at length regarding the route and the possibility of establishing and sustaining a large population in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Bridger tried to discourage the undertaking. In this conference he is reported to have said that he would give one thousand dollars for the first bushel of corn grown in the Salt Lake Valley.

At Rock Springs, we took a campsite at the Rock Springs KOA Journey, a convenient spot just north of I-80. 

10/2/2019 9:56 AM

The morning started comfortable but cold and snow began about mid-morning, obscuring historic Pilot Butte. Pilot Butte is a prominent landmark used by the early pioneer travelers, but now it’s for communication towers. After consideration, we decided to take three nights at Rock Springs to relax, explore and drive the Flaming Gorge Scenic Byway.

It’s a good day to look out the window or go to the museum or go downtown! Terry decided to use our new vacuum and it worked so well that she decided to vacuum Daisy’s bed-cover. It instantly ate the whole thing! Use your tools!

Thursday, October 3, 2019

With a clear, cool, blue-bird day, we hit the coffee shop at Green River, then took the circuitous, loop-drive Flaming Gorge Scenic Byway, for a day-trip around the gorge. We explored the west side in the morning and the east side in the afternoon, with a picnic lunch at the Red Canyon Lodge overlook, on the south end. The Flaming Gorge sprawls from Wyoming, south into Utah, so there’s a lot to see.

The west side provides some expansive vistas and lofty overlooks, with great views of the water and canyons. Looking out over great distances, you wonder how anything could live here but the fact is, there is abundant wildlife.

Along the south end we could see 30-million years of geology, in a glance. Over the several-hundred-millions of years, the land has experienced many different environments, from tropical seas to deserts. Abundant layers, formations and assorted fossils verify it all. The whole area rises from 6,000 to 8,400 feet in elevation and many slopes had great Fall colors.

On the east side, the Byway ventures east into the side-canyons and washes, giving an enlightening experience of the basin. US 191 descends down to Rock Springs offering views of jagged escarpments, off in the distance. At around mile 17 on US 191, the sagebrush flats turn to pinyon and juniper. A few miles farther and this has become an alpine drive, with aspen the predominant roadside tree. This stretch had some high ledges with no guard rails, so watch out for flat-landers, hugging the middle of the road.

The Flaming Gorge Scenic Byway encircles the gorge and lake, where you can just soak-up the scenery and experience the amazing diversity of the huge National Recreation Area. Made of spectacular red canyon walls and arid green forest, the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area sprawls across the southwest region of Wyoming and the northeast region of Utah. Flaming Gorge Reservoir is the largest reservoir in Wyoming, on the Green River, impounded behind the Flaming Gorge Dam. The dam, in the south end of the gorge, is a water-storage and hydroelectric generation facility, with an informative Visitor Center.

With the lake inundating the course of the 1869 Powell Expedition, many of the landmarks that he described on his journal are still visible today. Our only disappointment was a large road-killed Elk on the east side. In my opinion, and my experience with Parks and Wildlife, people drive out-of-control in the wild areas. Shame on drivers who kill wildlife when it could be avoided.

We had a real-fine day in the Flaming Gorge Country!

Beginning Fall 2019 with a trip to Yellowstone Country

Woodland Park, Colorado to Red Lodge, Montana

Thursday 9-12-19

Colorado:

Woodland Park, Teller County Colorado to Wellington, Larimer County Colorado

We started off with Starbucks coffee at Woodland Park. At Colorado Springs we took I-25 north for a fast and convenient route to Wyoming. Unfortunately, we had heavy I-25 traffic from Castle Rock to Thornton, so we had lots of time, in stop-and-go traffic, to recognize all the landmarks of Denver and the other towns along the Front Range.

After lunch and shopping Cosco at Thornton, we entered farm and ranch country and took a campsite at the Wellington KOA Journey. Wellington is called “Colorado’s Northern Gateway”. The campground was close to a cattle feedlot but the view of the Front Range and Rocky Mountain National Park, in the distance, made it a nice campsite. We enjoyed a cool, clear evening and morning.

Friday 9-13-19

Wellington, Colorado to Casper, Wyoming

The morning drive into Wyoming was scenic with the mountains on the west and the Plains on the east. We passed Cheyenne as we are very familiar with the town and we didn’t need fuel.

North of Cheyenne, we entered the immense high-plains of Wyoming, with rolling hills and endless expanses of now-brown grassland, interspersed with a few of those green, pivot-irrigated, round agricultural fields. (Mostly alfalfa)

We Googled things along the way and found a few interesting facts:

·       We saw Pronghorns, which are native and are not antelopes.

·       Prairie Dog towns are prevalent and way too many to count.

·       Chugwater, on Chugwater Creek, is the site of a “Buffalo Jump” clearly visible along I-25.

Wheatland was our lunch and fuel stop. The Wheatland Irrigation District is still the largest privately-owned irrigation system in the country. Agriculture is king but oil, gas, and railroading are the largest employers.

Douglas, Wyoming served as a supply point, warehousing and retail, for surrounding cattle ranches, as well as servicing railway crews, cowboys and the troops of the U.S. Army stationed at Fort Fetterman. Douglas was the home of a World War II internment camp. 1867 Fort Fetterman was established to protect pioneers and commerce on the Bozeman Trail.

Casper, our first time to actually stop off, is a beautiful town on the North Platte River. Casper was settled on the banks of the North Platte River in 1880. As the point of convergence for all major westward trails (the Oregon California, Mormon, Bridger, Bozeman, and Pony Express), the community developed as a crossroads to the west.

Our campsite was Casper East RV Park, their web: “Casper East RV Park and Campground is located on the East side of Casper close to the state’s largest mall. Also close by are Sam’s Club, Super Wal-Mart, Albertson’s, and Safeway. We are a family-owned, Good Sam Park and open year-round. Casper is a place to explore in more depth, with lots of history and natural attractions.”  

Saturday, 9-14-19

Following a good night in Casper, we took US 20 to Thermopolis and a campsite at Eagle RV Park, on the Bighorn River, on the south side of Thermopolis. This route took us across Natrona, Fremont, and Hot Springs counties, all huge counties.

Along the way, we saw numerous herds of Pronghorn and for the first time ever, we saw Pronghorns foraging and lolling in the towns. We suspect that the biannual migration has begun. Each spring and fall, multitudes of pronghorns migrate 170 miles to and from their important summer range in Grand Teton National Park. For over 6,800 years, members of this indigenous herd travel back to the Pinedale region, a place rich in water and hardy forage that fosters the largest gathering of pronghorn on earth.

Along the vast Wyoming plains a few remote old towns appear but not much services available:

Mills- Mills was originally a boomtown that sprang up in 1919 following construction of the Midwest Refining Company, located across the North Platte River. The Mills Construction Company bought the entire section for the purpose of mining gravel with which to construct roads and tank revetments. Company employees purchased lots and built makeshift houses. The town was mostly comprised of tarpaper shacks, with one block of permanent houses, a hotel, and an amusement park. Mills has been “boom and bust” but now it’s booming again with the initiation of the new propane gas processing and transportation business.

Powder River- Site of “Hell's Half Acre” a geologic oddity - a craggy horseshoe-shaped gorge, actually about 320 acres, with jagged rock spires, naturally sculpted into nightmarish chaos by an ancient offshoot of the Powder River. You can see it from the highway!

Waltman- Some large, remote ranches and some large oil and gas fields.

Hiland- Was formerly the high-point on a railroad, now it consists of only a bar in the middle-of-nowhere.

Moneta- Located close to the geographic center of the state it has no attractions other that an abandoned, desolate place in the Wyoming high-plains.

Sand Creek- A very obvious sandy creek-bed where Col. John Chivington led the attack that "surprised and murdered, in cold blood, the unsuspecting men, women and children of Arapaho and Cheyenne tribes, who had every reason to believe they were under the protection of the United States authorities," investigators concluded. Sand Creek Massacre.

Shoshoni- Established as a railroad and mining town, named for the Shoshone tribe of Native Americans, most of whom live on the nearby Wind River Indian Reservation. This was our lunch-stop and walk-around/look-around. Hard to believe a 2004 mushroom processing plant started-up here but failed due to illegal workers.

Wind River- The Wind River takes its rise near SE Yellowstone Park and officially becomes the Bighorn River at the Wedding of the Waters, on the north side of the Wind River Canyon. The canyon is a deep gorge, exposing millions of years of geology. A stunning drive along the river in the bottom on the gorge! Exiting the canyon on the north end enters Thermopolis.

Reservation- The west side of the canyon borders with the Wind River Indian Reservation.

At Thermopolis, on the Bighorn River, we explored the town and toured the Hot Springs State Park. The springs are open to the public for free as part of an 1896 treaty signed with the Shoshone and Arapaho Indian tribes. The park grounds are beautiful green lawns and landscaping, shaded by huge Cottonwood trees. It’s home to numerous natural hot springs, in which mineral-laden waters are heated by geothermal processes. You can take a contradictory dip in the nearby, cold, clear Bighorn River. The park has massive travertine terraces and cones, formed over the centuries by cascading hot mineral water. It’s like a “little Yellowstone”! Take a soak as “hot as you like”!

We ended our day with College football and a nice dinner at the campground. A peaceful close to a very diverse and scenic day in Wyoming.

Sunday, September 15, 2019

From Thermopolis, we took WY 120 to Cody and Montana 72-MT 308 to Red Lodge and took a one-week site at Red Lodge KOA Journey, on Rock Creek.

Meeteese is the only town on the route to Cody. Tiny Belfry is the only town between Cody and Red Lodge.

At Meeteese, on the Greybull River, it was a popular meeting place of Native Americans. The town retains much of its original character with wooden boardwalks, wooden watering troughs, hitching rails and many historic buildings from the turn of the century. It’s an authentic “Western town” with three bars!

The Greybull River is a cold, clear tributary of the Bighorn River, and is a premier fishing stream, especially for the Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Native Americans named it for a white buffalo in the area, a powerful omen that made it a sacred place to them.

The Meeteese area also has a colony of Black-footed Ferrets, previously thought to be extinct. The Wyoming Department of Wildlife is taking measures to protect and propagate the cute little critters.

Just north of Meeteese, we saw a spectacular Golden Eagle, feeding on road-kill. We were up-close and personal and clearly observed the majestic bird. With a dark brown body, and lighter golden-brown plumage around the neck, the sun reflected a picture-perfect image. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the picture!

At Cody, we replaced a tail-light bulb on our rig and had lunch. Cody is a favorite town, with nice parks, attractions, and amenities. Cody, Wyoming was founded in 1896 by the living legend, Colonel William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, who at the age of 41 was one of the most famous men in the world. “Buffalo Bill” is still bringing in the crowds! We drove around town, however, it was sunny and hot, so we continued north.

Heading on up to Montana, we followed the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River, a beautiful valley, with the Beartooth Range on the west. The river begins in the Beartooth Range, by Yellowstone Park, then makes a horseshoe arc from Montana, into Wyoming, then back into Montana, flowing into the Yellowstone River, just above the confluence of the Bighorn. Hemmed in by 1,200-foot high sheer granite walls, the canyon section of the Beartooth Mountains is accessible only by expert climbers and kayakers. Today was another picturesque ride, from Wyoming to Montana!

Monday, September 16, 2019

We started talking about scary drives we have made so I decided to make a list of the ones that I remember.

Highest and scariest western mountain roads that we have traveled:

Mount Evans Scenic Byway Colorado

Pikes Peak Highway Colorado

Trail Ridge Road Colorado

Red Mountain Pass US 550 Colorado

Hogback Road Canyon City Colorado

Emerald Bay Overlook Lake Tahoe, California

Crater Lake Rim-road Oregon

Hogback on UT 12 Escalante, UT

Sherman Pass WA 20 Republic, WA

Hurricane Ridge Olympic NP WA

Going to the Sun-Logan Pass Montana

Beartooth Highway Montana

Cloudcroft, New Mexico

Gila, New Mexico

Tuesday, September 17, 2019

Exploring and shopping at Red Lodge, we spent a cool, cloudy morning just doing our list of errands. At the Visitor Center, we got some good information and materials. The VC has an outside collection of artifacts and “Liver Eating” Johnston's cabin.

Thursday, September 19, 2019

Yesterday, we drove the Beartooth “Top of the World” Highway from Red Lodge, Montana over to Cooke City and NE Yellowstone National Park. It was a clear, cool, cloudless day, with blue skies and excellent visibility. We stood on one mountain range and looked at a completely different, distant mountain range. Standing on the glacial-carved Beartooth Range we could clearly see the volcanic Absaroka Range.

With high switchbacks, shear precipices, and millions of years of exposed geology, it is a startling, fascinating, and extraordinary adventure. It was another good day in Yellowstone Country!

On our return, we took a side trip on the Chief Joseph Highway to the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River which has carved a spectacular 1200-foot gorge between the granite Beartooth Plateau and the volcanic Absaroka Mountains. The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is in the U.S. state of Wyoming and follows the route taken by Chief Joseph as he led the Nez Perce Indians out of Yellowstone National Park and into Montana in 1877, during their attempt to flee the U.S. Cavalry and escape into Canada. The plan didn’t work very well but they saw some beautiful country!

Sunday, September 22, 2019

After a cold, rainy Saturday in Red Lodge, we awoke to a cool, sunny Sunday morning. Our Saturday was a day of College Football, reading, and doing research. After Sunday breakfast, we hooked-up, hit the coffee shop, and headed south, back to Cody, Wyoming. We drove around town, had lunch and resupplied at Cody, then headed up the Shoshone Canyon to Wapiti, for a campsite at the Green Creek Inn and RV Park, at the south-side foot of the of the Absaroka Mountains. The RV Park is a neat, clean spot with nice trees and excellent views of the mountains and Shoshone River Valley.

The Shoshone River runs through the Absaroka Mountains, and a volcanically active region of fumaroles known as Colter's Hell. This contributed to the river being named on old maps of Wyoming as the Stinking Water River. Just out of Cody, we could see the geothermal features in the deep river canyon. Hydrothermal features spout to life discharging discolored water and Sulphur us gasses, roiling the Shoshone River downstream. I just read a fascinating book on John Colter, the first white man to enter the Yellowstone area, along this route. Also, the Buffalo Bill Dam and reservoir fill the canyon for a long distance.

Wapiti, Wyoming is situated along the North Fork of the Shoshone River in Shoshone National Forest, between Cody and the eastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park. On the south-slope of the Wapiti Valley, we saw the Smith Mansion, hand-built by Francis Lee Smith, from logs salvaged from a forest-fire. It looks more like a five-story mine-structure, possibly because it was never completed, due to the death of Smith, in a fall from the roof.

Wapiti is named for the numerous Elk that winter in the valley; we saw no Elk but it’s too early for them to come down to the valley. It won’t be long though, because new snow from yesterday is shining on the Absaroka Mountains. Yesterday’s snow was down to around 8,500-feet, so winter is coming. We hope that our visit to Yellowstone isn’t cut short by winter weather! Anything can happen in the high Rocky Mountains, this time of year.

Last of summer and Moving into Fall 2019

Thursday, August 22, 2019

We spent the morning in Ridgway and Ouray, for coffee, shopping, bench-warming, crowd-watching, and followed by lunch. It was a good morning and, on the way, back to Ridgway State Park, we stopped off at Cedar Grove Cemetery. It’s an old cemetery and lots of historic figures are interred there, but a thunderstorm and light rain preempted our visit. We decided it was best to return home for a nap!

Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Today we returned from a two-day trip to Hinsdale County’s, Lake City (1873). Lake City, on the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River, is just across the San Juan Mountains from us but we had to drive 180 miles to get around there. The four-wheel-drive road was not an option for us.

Today, the surface geology of the Lake Fork watershed is dominated by volcanic rocks that are part of the San Juan volcanic field. Between 23 and 34 million years ago, numerous erupting volcanoes threw thousands of feet of andesitic and rhyolitic rocks across the region. ​Even as novices, we could identify the huge masses of tuft, ash, pumice, basalt, and all sorts of rock from the basement of the earth.

Lake City- Prior to written history, the Ute people lived in this area of the San Juan Mountain Range (Shining Mountains), where they hunted and fished in the high mountain valleys, during the summers, and wintered on the western slope. When placer gold was found, hard-rock mining followed and a flourishing town grew up at the confluence of the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River and Benson Creek.

Lake Fork of the Gunnison River- The Lake Fork, which is located south of Gunnison along Highway 149 near Lake City, is the least known of the Gunnison River’s major tributaries. The Lake Fork of the Gunnison River, locally called the Silver River, drains the northeastern portion of the spectacular San Juan Mountains and is one of Colorado's most underrated and intriguing rivers, with dizzying canyons and stunning landscapes.

Historic Buildings- Lake City was well laid out with wide, shaded streets, and boasted a number of substantial buildings constructed of frame, brick, and stone. Today, the historic old buildings house shops, restaurants, and various other businesses, but it still looks like 1873. Lake City remains the county seat and sole town in Hinsdale County.

Hinsdale County- Hinsdale County, Colorado, is the most remote area in the United States' lower 48. The high-country county is covered by mountains, including multiple 14 and 13,000 ft. peaks, and contains one of the most roadless areas in the country. The continental divide crosses the county twice, along with the Continental Divide Trail.

Jagged peaks pierce deep blue skies while wildlife teems in rocky canyons and on high valley floors. Crystalline rivers flow from high altitudes while unique geology promises adventure and spurs endless exploration. And continuously, within this wondrous dreamscape, whispers from the past mingle with voices of the present in the cool, rarefied air of remote Hinsdale County and its historic town of Lake City.

Encompassing more than 1,000 square miles of untamed beauty, “ah factors” are a constant in this northeastern corner of Colorado’s mystical San Juan Mountains. From climbers, fishermen, hunters, 4-wheel enthusiasts, and hikers to bikers, horseback riders, birdwatchers, and Old West history buffs, magical moments are spun into heirloom memories passed on and recreated generation after generation. In town, the rustic cabins are occupied by tourists from all around and their OHV’s are seen cruising around town. The area is a popular off-road vehicle region, with hundreds of miles of high-mountain trails to ride, providing great vistas and scary thrills.

Lake San Cristobal- Lake San Cristobal was formed about 700 years ago when the first Slumgullion Earthflow, a natural landslide, created a dam across the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River. The earthflow is plainly visible from above and it is still slowly moving.

Slumgullion Pass- At 11,530 feet elevation, we could clearly see five fourteen-thousand- foot mountains in the northeastern San Juan range. It was a clear, cool, breezy day and some of the quacking Aspens were beginning to show gold.

At the foot of the Pass is the Alferd Packer cannibal massacre site. Alferd Packer, "The Colorado Cannibal," and five fellow prospectors tramped into the snowy San Juan Mountains on February 9, 1874, got lost and Packer was the only survivor.

We took a cozy,1940 cabin on the river at the Texan Resort. We enjoyed some nice dining, shopping, hiking and exploring in and around Lake City!

Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Labor Day weekend was a very busy time in the park and it was our last weekend of the season to work. It has been a great summer and we have made lots of new friends and experienced lots of new things.

My final notes of the season are on “Observations of Nature and Wildlife” in the park; 

In the park, every day, among abundant nature and wildlife, there’s an infinite observation of change. The trees, birds, animals, insects, vegetation, and seeing bears during the day, all reflect the approaching Fall and Winter. It is a grand opportunity for nature and wildlife observations. One of our main responsibilities is to be the “eyes and ears” of the park. From many hours at the Pa Co Chu Puk gate house, I have observed the season;

The Plum Trees have bloomed, leafed-out, and made fruit

The angle of the sun has run its summer course

My daily bird visitors have nested, hatched, fledged, and many have begun migration

The trees have budded, produced new foliage, and are now turning to Fall colors

The Bears are eating night and day, preparing for winter hibernation

The Elk and Deer have slicked-off, raised young, and the new bucks are now in “velvet”

Numerous wildflowers have come and gone during the season

Day and night have traded hours

The fat little Chipmunks are gathering nuts and storing for winter

The native grasses have gone from green to brown

The summer insects have disappeared

The winter snow-melt and runoff, swirled and swelled the streams now they’re wadable becks

The sounds of kids in the park are hushed with their return to school

The Mountain Lions are garnering the weak and lame

This summer has taught me some new lessons:

These changing seasons teach us to appreciate change in our lives and see it as a natural process. Just as mother nature is not constant, neither are our lives. They're full of twists and turns, highs and lows.

These changing seasons show us how to let go and wait patiently for the next best thing. As fall marks the conclusion of summer, and spring marks the end of winter, there are chapters in your life, laid out on a timeline, that are meant to be enjoyed until they pass on. The loss doesn’t have to be negative, though, for you never know what amazing things are to occur in the next chapter of your life. The best is yet to come back around.

Thursday, September 5, 2019

This morning, we said goodbye to the San Juan Mountains and Ridgeway State Park and headed over to Woodland Park, for a visit with friends, Dave and Diane. We drove north to Montrose and a Starbuck coffee, then east on US 50. At Parlin, we took a new route SE to Saguache, and a campsite at the San Luis Valley RV Park.

The first part of our travel today was over familiar terrain, and the last part was a new landscape for us. This new path was Colorado 114, a scenic drive, from US 50 down to US 285. The route follows up Cochetopa Creek, crossing the Continental Divide at North Pass (10,149’), then down Saguache Creek to Saguache.

Several highlights were especially scenic;

Leaving US 50, we crossed Tomichi Creek, at the confluence with Cochetopa Creek. 71-mile long Tomichi Creek receives the waters of several creeks including Cochetopa Creek, and flows into the Gunnison River at the Town of Gunnison. It’s a picturesque trout fishery and provides lots of agricultural irrigation. The best way to really understand a creek is to wade right in.  It can be very calming to get away from the busy main streets of town and wander through the tall grass and dense Aspen trees to Tomichi Creek. Tomichi Creek is a tributary to the Gunnison River that flows from the Continental Divide and Monarch Pass Area.

Cochetopa Creek- A beautiful trout stream and irrigation source with attractive cattle ranches and green hay fields, with the cold, clear creek meandering through the valley. It takes its rise on San Luis Peak in the La Garita Mountains. It merges with Tomichi Creek near the town of Parlin, Colorado, along Highway 50. The creek flows through the Cochetopa Caldera in the San Juan volcanic field and through Cochetopa Canyon along Colorado State Highway 114.

Cochetopa Valley- With occasional traffic, we slowly drove on the very winding road, we had our windows down, enjoying the cool mountain air and the magnificent scenery. Daisy loved “flying her nose” and the sights, sounds, and smells of the valley. The narrow valley was an active scene, with ranchers, cutting and bailing hay.

Cochetopa Canyon- Rivers have always been a special topography attraction to me but now I’m adding canyons to the list. We enjoyed a picnic lunch, beside the creek, under the Aspens, Pines, and Spruce trees. The road is narrow with many curves, and the steep canyon walls were massive volcanic deposits.

Canyons tell a story- Like pages in a book, the rock layers of canyons tell a story of past environments, ancient animals and dynamic processes of change. But unlike a book that we can read in a short time, this geologic book has to be read from a different point of view. Time is thrown out of balance here, and we need to see the land from a very different perspective. Just like a calendar is divided into months, weeks, days, and so forth, the geologic time scale has its own unique set of time divisions. We’re talking eons, or billions of years. Very impressive stuff!

North Pass- At (10,010’ feet elevation) the pass is below tree-line but has good views of the east and west slope. We were impressed with the contrast of variation in tree species. The west slope is predominately pine and spruce, while the east slope is predominately Aspen and juniper.

Following Saguache Creek down the east slope toward the San Luis Valley, Aspen gives was to Juniper at the lower elevations, then desert Rabbit Brush, Salt Bush, and Artemisia.

We saw a large forest fire in the Rio Grande National Forest, on the east side of the pass. We also saw Pronghorn on the slopes of the east valley.

At the little town of Saguache (1891), we toured around and admired the old buildings and giant Cottonwood trees. The site has lots of history from the Native Americans to the Spaniards, then Anglos. Along the old Spanish Trail, Saguache saw all the pioneers and characters of early American history. It’s an attractive little town invoking visions of yesteryear life.

At the San Luis Valley RV Park, we made chicken pie, outside in the convection oven, while we admired the magnificent Sangre De Cristo Mountains, with the Great Sand Dunes National Park, at their western base. My personal name for the Sangre De Cristos is the “tumultuous ocean mountains”, due to the hundreds of peaks in the range, appearing like a rough seascape.

The Rio Grande Canal is a puzzling observation that requires investigation. Initially, I assumed that it was taking water off the Rio Grande for the San Luis Valley, but it’s vice-versa. Actually, it takes water from mountain drainages in the north San Luis Valley and dumps it into the Rio Grande, to meet Colorado’s growing water demand downstream.

San Luis Valley- the valley is bounded on the east by the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and on the west by the San Juan Mountains. The valley has predictable wind patterns, with morning upslopes, as warming air rises up the mountains, and evening downslopes, as the cool air descends down the mountains. We experienced it two days at the north part of the valley. The high valley is 8-thousand square miles of desert, containing huge, rich agricultural fields, resulting from irrigation. Also, the north part of the valley contains enormous grids of those round, ground-water, pivot irrigation plots. 

The name of the Sangre De Cristos may refer to the occasional reddish hues observed during sunrise and sunset, and when alpenglow occurs, especially when the mountains are covered with snow. The Sangre De Cristo Range rises abruptly from the east valley floor and consists of a jumble of 13-14-thousand-foot peaks. This is a special place!

Friday, September 6, 2019

On a clear, cool morning, we decided to make a day-trip visit to the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Alamosa. From Villa Grove, we took Co 17 to Moffat and then east to the park.

Our last visit to the Great Sand Dunes National Park was 30 years past but we enjoyed this visit even more. Nestled against the rugged Sangre De Cristo Mountains, the park hosts majestic scenery. The tallest dunes in North America are the centerpiece in a diverse landscape of grasslands, wetlands, conifer and aspen forests, alpine lakes, and tundra. The Visitor Center presented an interesting film, exhibits, a nature trail, and scenic overlooks. The park offers many ways to experience the dunes and the mountains, from campgrounds, picnic areas, hikes, trails, wildlife, 4WD adventures, fishing, swimming, wildflowers, and stunning night skies. We had a wonderful visit and were glad that we visited the park.

From the park, we took CO 150 south to Alamosa, on the Rio Grande River. We had lunch at Emma’s, a fine traditional Spanish cuisine. After looking around the old town, we headed north, back to our San Luis Valley RV Park. A huge storm was moving in from the west and the dark clouds looked ominous. The wind increased and a light rain fell but it amounted to very little. Oddly, a storm is southern Colorado can reveal streaking rainfall at a distance but it simply evaporates before it reaches the ground.

Saturday, September 8, 2019

Heading north to Buena Vista, we crossed Poncha Pass (9,010’), from the San Luis Valley, over to the Arkansas Valley. Poncha Pass had spectacular views of the Sangre De Cristo Range to the east and the Sawatch Range to the west.

We shopped at Salida and then headed up the Arkansas River to Buena Vista for lunch at K’s Dairy Delite, the best hamburger in town. We made it a picnic of lunch, under the huge Cottonwood trees, at the nearby park. We always enjoy Buena Vista for its splendid setting, between the Arkansas River and the Collegiate Range.

We took campsite at the Buena Vista KOA, for a relaxing BBQ and college football. Tomorrow, we head to Woodland Park to visit Dave and Diane.

Sunday, Sept. 8, 2019

Amidst a cool, clear, Rocky Mountain morning, we resumed our ride on US 285/US 24 over to Woodland Park and the Bristlecone Lodge RV Park. Our four-day visit with Dave and Diane was loads of fun and we really enjoyed the visit.

From Buena Vista, we crossed Trout Creek Pass into South Park, where we saw Pronghorn and a cattle herd with Buffalo intermingled. We wondered how they get along together. We stopped off at Wilkerson Pass for a walk and overlook of South Park. It was clear and we could see the mountains ranges of SW Colorado. We talked to the Visitor Center hosts, a pleasant couple from Starkville, Mississippi.

At Woodland Park, we had some delightful dinners and adventures with Dave and Diane. On Monday, we drove down to Colorado Springs and visited the Old Courthouse grounds and gardens, followed by lunch at Suggas’s. We spent the afternoon at Fort Carson and the May Insect Museum, a grand collection of insects and an interesting story of the May family.

On Tuesday morning, we visited Manitou Lake, in the Pike National Forest, and walked around the lake, across the boardwalk, and through the Ponderosa Pines. We saw Yellow Warblers, a Golden Eagle, and numerous other birds and wildflowers. It was a pleasant morning and we enjoyed being out with Dave and Diane.

In the afternoon, we drove to Sedalia for a visit to the Cherokee Ranch. We took Colorado 67 north through the Pike National Forest, down West Creek to the South Platte River and then followed down the river to Deckers and Sedalia.

Cherokee Castle and Ranch, a 34-hundred-acre estate, raised Santa Gertrudis cattle, the first distinct breed of beef cattle produced in the United States. We enjoyed the visit to the ranch and the castle was a real showplace, with extensive art, furniture and furnishings collection. The castle, perched on a high mesa, commands an expansive view of the ranch, the Denver skyline, and the distant mountains of the front-range.

Following our visit to the castle, we returned to Sadalia for dinner at, PieZanos Pizza, a popular pizza joint with great food and atmosphere. Finally, we returned to Woodland Park via Colorado Springs. Another great outing with Dave and Diane!

Terrry

These are not my photos but yesterday I came upon a Smooth Green Snake on the path where we walk. It was such a wonderful green. Very small and thin.
Last night we stared at the Milky Way with mountains on the horizon. I don't want to leave here.