Tuesday, May 1, 2018 Mayday
On a cool cloudy morning, we departed Reno, via I-80
eastbound, following down the Truckee River, toward Winnemucca, our destination
for the day. Unless you have an off-road vehicle, I-80 is the only route to
Winnemucca. The route follows river canyons, with the Trinity Range on the
north, and the Humboldt and East Range, on the south.
At Fernley, we bid farewell to the Truckee River as it
turned SE to the Carson Sink. At the Humboldt Sink, we followed up the Humboldt
River to Winnemucca. These are famous, historic river corridors used by many
explorers and trailblazers, seeking a route from the Missouri River to
California. As we drove the route, I wondered how Fremont, Carson, and others
selected the course they adopted, because one could easily find themselves in a
sink of mud and saline water, or upon a deep gulch, with no way down.
In 1984, the natural dike between the Carson Sink and the
Humboldt Sink was breached by the Nevada Department of Transportation to
prevent Interstate 80 and the town of Lovelock from flooding, due to unusually
heavy runoff from snowfall. Now, I guess it’s possible that Truckee River water
could flow into and down the Humboldt River, in highwater conditions. Fremont
would never have believed it possible!
Between the US 95 South junction, and Lovelock, we crossed
the divide between the Truckee and Humboldt watershed, but there are no
significant mountain passes on this segment of I-80.
Along the route, we saw nice river views, Carson Sink,
Humboldt Sink, natural steam wells and steam pipeline.
Near Mill City, we stopped off for a picnic lunch at a cool,
windy parking spot, and enjoyed unique views around the area.
We saw a natural steam pipeline and have not discovered how
it’s used.
We saw EP Silica Company, mining a huge deposit of silica.
We saw abandoned and active mines, with mountains of
tailings, representing the wide-variety of metals and minerals found in Nevada.
At Winnemucca, Nevada, we took a campsite at the Winnemucca
RV Park, a nice little campground, with a view of wide-open spaces and the
mountains. Winnemucca straddles the Humboldt River. The town was named for the
19th-century Chief Winnemucca of the local Northern Paiute tribe, who
traditionally lived in this area. The chief's daughter, Sarah
Winnemucca, was an advocate for education and fair treatment of the Paiute and
Shoshone tribes in the area. (We saw a beautiful bronze sculpture of her in the
State Capitol at Carson City.) We explored around the town and were not
surprised to see five casinos, a huge liquor store, and lots of bars, and a
brothel district. Ranching and mining make the economy and the old Winnemucca
State Bank and Trust building was most impressive. Some Chinese people remain
from a once large community that came as workers (1868) on the transcontinental
Central Pacific Railroad. We were also surprised to encounter a thriving Basque
Culture at Winnemucca. They came from Spain and France during the “gold rush”
and then became sheep and livestock workers due to their traditional skills. We
had a good night in Winnemucca!
5-2-2018 Wednesday
This morning, we decided to make a pull from Winnemucca,
Nevada, up to Boise, Idaho, via US 95. This route was very scenic and desolate
country. Just north of Winnemucca, we encountered the Winnemucca Sand Dunes,
largest dunes in the State of Nevada. The rolling hills of dunes cover about 40
acres, averaging about 40-50 feet in height. It’s a popular site for off-road,
dune-buggies, not a cheap form of entertainment!
Moving north, we saw the Santa Rosa Range, ruged and
snow-capped.
At McDermitt, we entered the State of Oregon. The state
line goes through the White Horse Inn, a historical landmark now being
restored, which was a saloon, hotel, and (reportedly) brothel. We learned, that
“when it was open, food could be ordered and paid for in Oregon, avoiding the
Nevada state sales tax”.
US 95 between Winnemucca and McDermitt, has no high passes,
just lots of ups and downs, traversing the gulches and valleys. We were
surprised to see green, productive valleys, in this arid region, thanks to
irrigation.
In Oregon, US 95 traverses a very desolate SE Oregon. The
high desert has lots of ups and down, like NW Nevada (Blue Mountain Pass 5293),
but irrigated valleys break the arid impression. We saw Pronghorn, hawks and
lots of ground squirrels. Cattle and sheep ranching are the main homesteads. In
the center of town, at Jordan Valley, stands a pelota fronton, built in 1915 by
Basque settlers, many of whom had been recruited from Spain to herd sheep.
Their descendants are a noticeable presence today in Malheur County.
Charbonneau gravesite:
Jean Baptiste Charbonneau (Little Pomp) (02/11/1805-05/16/1866)
was the son of the French-Canadian Interpreter Toussaint Charbonneau and
Sacagawea, the Shoshone Guide of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. He was born at
Fort Mandan during the expedition’s journey westward. He was later adopted by
Clark and educated to become a successful citizen. His image can be found on
the United States dollar coin along with his mother, Sacagawea. He is the only
child ever depicted on United States currency. At the age of 61, he set out
from California to Montana-the scene of the latest gold strike. While crossing
the icy waters of the Owyhee River, he contracted pneumonia and died at the
Inskip Stage Station on May 16, 1866 near today’s Danner, Oregon. This was not
the end of this great American mountain man; his grave was rediscovered in the
1960’s, dedicated August 6, 1971, and recognized as a Registered National
Historic Place on March 14, 1973. Just Off US Hwy 95, at Ruby Ranch.
Crossing into Idaho, US 95 continues through the high
desert until suddenly, you start down a steep grade and see the Snake River
Valley below, an enormous green valley and plain, growing fruits, vegetables,
and numerous other ag crops. Currently, the canola fields are in full bloom,
bright yellow blankets, spread among the verdant green fields.
At Boise, Idaho’s Capitol City, we took a campsite at Boise
Riverside RV Park, in Garden City, on the Boise River. We took some nice walks
on the Boise River trail, adjacent to the RV Park and the State Fairgrounds.
We made a list of the Boise attractions and sights, so we
could cruise the town;
The Idaho State Capitol in Boise is the home of the
government of the state of Idaho. Although Lewiston, Idaho, briefly served as
Idaho's capital from the formation of Idaho Territory in 1863, the territorial
Legislature moved the capital to Boise on December 24, 1864. Idaho was admitted
to the Union on July 3, 1890, becoming the 43rd state. The “Capitol of Light”
lives up to its name, as it is very open and naturally lighted. We found our
visit very interesting, informative, and inspirational!
Fort Boise
Old Idaho State Penitentiary
Table Rock Table Rock is a mountain pillar in the western
United States, located just south-east of downtown Boise, Idaho, in the
foothills of the Boise Range of the Rocky Mountains. Its summit elevation of
3,650 feet above sea level is 900 feet above the city center. Great views!
Boise Towne Square Mall is a large retail complex, with all
the major stores and very popular.
World Center for Birds of Prey. The World Center for Birds
of Prey in Boise, Idaho, is the headquarters for The Peregrine Fund.
Congregation Ahavath Beth Israel is a synagogue in Boise,
Idaho. Its 1896 building is among the oldest synagogue buildings in continuous
use in the United States west of the Mississippi River.
The Idaho Botanical Garden is a nonprofit botanical garden
located on 50 acres at 2355 North Old Penitentiary Road, Boise, Idaho, United
States. Until 1973 the site served as the Old Idaho State Penitentiary's farm
and nursery. After the penitentiary was closed, the land lay dormant for more
than a decade, and in 1984 the gardens were first created.
Hyde Park, also called the Hyde Park Historic District, is
a section of the North End neighborhood in Boise, Idaho known for its several
popular eateries and locally owned specialty shops; including the Hyde Park Pub
& Grill, Goody's. and G. Wilikers. Located on North 13th Street a few
blocks north of Downtown Boise, the Hyde Park Historic District was added to
the National Register of Historic Places in 1982.
The Boise Idaho Temple is the 29th constructed and 27th
operating temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. The temple
is located in the city of Boise, Idaho. LDS Church leaders discussed building a
temple in the western part of Idaho as early as 1939. However, with the
majority of church's membership in the eastern part of Idaho, the leaders
decided against it and concentrated on building the Idaho Falls Idaho Temple.
We have visited the stunning Idaho Falls Temple on a previous trip.
The Boise Depot is a former train station in Boise, Idaho,
United States. It was built in 1925 by the Union Pacific Railroad. In 1990
MK-Morrison Knudsen purchased the depot and renovated it to pristine condition.
In 1996, the City of Boise took it over and opened it for tours and special
events. It is open to the public on Sunday and Monday from 11:00 am to 5:00 pm.
Julia Davis Park is a municipal park in the downtown region
of Boise, Idaho. Created in 1907 with a land donation from Thomas Jefferson
Davis, it is the first park in the "String of Pearls", the group of
parks operated by the Boise Parks and Recreation Department that are located
along the Boise River. Being centrally located in Boise, the park contains
several prominent sites, including museums such as the Boise Art Museum, the
Idaho Historical Museum, and the Idaho Black History Museum, as well as other attractions
like Zoo Boise, the Idaho Rose Society, and the Gene Harris Band Shell. The
Boise River Greenbelt runs through the park, which is bordered by Broadway
Avenue to the east, Capital Boulevard to the west, the Boise River to the
south, and Myrtle Street to the north. Other amenities at Julia Davis Park
include river access, statues, a rose garden, a playground and tennis court, a
pond with paddle boat rentals, and a pedestrian bridge that connects the park
with Boise State University.
Albertsons Stadium is an outdoor athletic stadium in the
western United States, located on the campus of Boise State University in
Boise, Idaho. It is the home field of the Boise State Broncos of the Mountain
West Conference. Known as Bronco Stadium for its first 44 seasons, it was
renamed in May 2014 when Albertsons, a chain of grocery stores founded by Boise
area resident Joe Albertson, purchased the naming rights. It’s a very blue
field!
The Western Idaho Fair is the annual de facto state fair of
Idaho. It has been held in the capital city of Boise virtually every late
summer/early fall since 1897, and annually in the contiguous city of Garden
City, adjacent to our RV Park, on the grounds of the Expo Idaho, since 1967.
The corresponding Eastern Idaho Fair is held in Blackfoot, Idaho.
Discovery Center of Idaho is an interactive science center
in Boise, Idaho located at 131 W. Myrtle St. The Discovery Center of Idaho's
mission is to inspire lifelong interest and learning in science, technology,
engineering and math.
Friday, May 4, 2018
Today, we departed Boise and headed north on ID State Route
55 to Eagle, then north to Horseshoe Bend. SH-55 then climbed the Payette River
canyon to Banks, then its north fork (gorge) to the Long Valley, through the
town of Cascade and to Lake Cascade State Park. We took a 2-day campsite at
Lake Cascade State Park and spent the afternoon cooking-out, watching birds,
mountains, lake, and trees. We were excited to see an Osprey bringing nest
material and another carrying a large fish. We also have Loons providing their eerie,
beautiful calls.
The route up into the Salmon River Mountains was very
scenic. The area mountains are heavily forested, with very few rising above
tree-line (approx. 10K feet). At Eagle we crossed the Boise River, then climbed
to the Spring Valley and over the Spring Valley Summit, at 4,242 feet, then
descended 1,600 feet vertically, on Horseshoe Bend Hill, into Horseshoe Bend,
on the Payette River. This was a hard pull up and a steep push down, which gave
our gearbox and compression brake a good workout. It’s an interesting
observation that sometimes roads/passes are steeper in lower-altitude mountain
ranges.
Along the historic Payette River, a major tributary to the Snake
River, we observed an old splash-dam site, old mine sites, and roaring
whitewater, with outfitters for fishing and river-running. Proceeding up the
river, SR55 climbs to scary heights and precipices which made me hold the wheel
very tightly. The OMG-drive was worth it because, after crossing the 5200-ft
pass into the Round Valley and Lake Cascade, we were rewarded with a blue lake,
surrounded by tree-covered, snow-capped mountains. Lake Cascade State Park, “The
Mile-High Playground “, is nestled in the majestic Salmon Mountains of central
Idaho.
5-5-18 Saturday
A front came through last night, bringing colder
temperatures and wind. That made for good sleeping-weather, so we slept-in this
morning. This is a very peaceful campground and we are totally relaxed. Today,
we plan to hang-out and walk around the lake and explore the flora and fauna.
We be lov’in it! This entire line of high valleys has become a summer retreat
for Boise and Snake River Valley folks, fleeing from the heat of their
desert-fringed cities, for the cool mountains of the Salmon Range.
The campground is populated with towering Ponderosa Pine
trees, a favorite perching point for the Osprey. We also observed some large
Magpies, Lesser Goldfinch, Western Chickadee, Loons, Western Grebes, and various
ducks.
Unfortunately, Terry was attacked by an off-leash German
Shepard, in the campground and we had to spend several hours at the hospital
getting treatment and stiches. Idaho law requires a police report on dog bites,
so we had to do that too. With all that done, we plan to take time to heal and
hopefully no complications or further action will be necessary. A very
traumatic experience for Terry!
Sunday, May 6, 2018
Departing Cascade in the Salmon Range, we continued north
to Orofino, Idaho, and a campsite on the Clearwater River, at Clearwater
Crossing RV Park. Along this route, we followed ID 55 through the high Long
Valley, through Donnelley ranchlands, to McCall, on Payette Lake, for a hardy
“Idaho breakfast”. From McCall, we followed the Little Salmon River to US 95,
then downriver to its confluence with the Salmon, at Riggins. Access to the
Snake River’s, “Hell’s Canyon” by jet boat is very popular from Lewiston but
the not-so-well known access at Riggins does more. You can jet boat or raft
from Riggins and see the Salmon River Canyon AND Hell’s Canyon. This ride was a
long (all morning) downhill, with spectacular whitewater, falls, geology, and
historic sites.
Now, at White Bird, we faced a hard pull up the White Bird
Grade and over the summit to Grangeville, on the Camas Prairie. Native presence
on the Camas Prairie dates back over 11,000 years ago. The Shoshoni, Northern
Piute, and Nez Perce migrated annually to the Camas Prairie to gather camas and
yampa for their winter food storage. The prairie is now solid ag fields of
wheat and today we saw huge lemon-yellow blankets of Canola (Rape)crops in
bloom. We didn’t get any camas bulbs but we did get a delicious cheeseburger
and fries at the Hilltop Restaurant.
From Grangeville, we took ID 13 over to the east side of
the Camas Prairie and into the Clearwater Mountains. Named for the native
perennial camassia or camas, the Camas Prairie bulbs were an important food
source for Native Americans.
We immediately encountered a long, steep descent to the
South Fork of the Clearwater River and followed it to its confluence with the
Middle Fork of the Clearwater River, forming the Clearwater River, at Kooskia. Kooskia
is within the Nez Perce Indian Reservation and this is a rich area of Lewis and
Clark history. On a previous visit here, I met a Nez Perce descendent of the
Lewis and Clark Corps and discovered that there were apparently numerous
half-white offspring’s, resulting from their journey. The Indians were
especially intrigued with black York, so he probably fathered some children
too!
From Here, we followed the Clearwater River down to
Orofino, our destination for the day. This is a very special place and I like
to imagine that basically, it remains unchanged and recognizable to the Nez
Perce. Just across the river, is a flat ground and Ponderosa Pine grove, where
the Nez Perce instructed the Corps of Discovery, in making canoes, from Western
Red Cedar trees. These canoes took them to the mouth of the Columbia River and
the Pacific Ocean. Many landmarks and sites mentioned in the Lewis and Clark
Journals remain and can be seen today! Also, the Clearwater River flows
swiftly, from bank to bank, just as it carried the Corps of Discovery down the
Snake, and Columbia Rivers, on their float to the Pacific. I just checked the
USGS Current Conditions of the Clearwater River at Orofino, approximately 100
yards wide, was 46 degrees, with a discharge of 50-thousand cubic-feet-per-second.
Swollen from snowmelt, it is frightful just to stand next to this powerful
river.
Monday, May 7, 2018
With cloudy skies and a light mist, we left Orofino and
headed north to Heyburn State Park, near St. Maries. Taking ID 7, we climbed
the steep, north side of the Clearwater River Valley, where you can see the
whole Clearwater River valley, as you climb. This was a long, hard pull and a
scary but scenic road. Climbing out of the Clearwater River Valley, we crossed
the rolling hills of the Palouse, in Latah County, with enormous agricultural
fields and ranches, spread over the steep hillsides. This area produces mostly
wheat, with hay and grazing fields interspersed.
As we continued north, we descended into a deep canyon and
crossed the North Fork of the Clearwater River, on a narrow bridge, immediately
intersecting ID 3. Taking ID 3 north, we had another hard-pull up the west side
of the canyon. Along this climb, at about 3-thousand feet, we saw an unusual
formation in an exposed road-cut. A 50-foot layer of yellow, compacted,
volcanic ash was capped with a thick layer of volcanic basalt, hardened into a
mass of hexagonal vertical columns. Basalt columns are formed from cooling lava
that weathers naturally to produce earthy colors such as light and deep browns,
rusty reds as well as light greens. The underlying yellow ash layer had a
network of small holes made by nesting Swallows, and hundreds of swarming
Swallows, were busy with their annual Spring mating/nesting ritual. A short
distance north, at another road-cut, we observed another mass of basalt
columns, in a horizontal position, with the ends exposed. What a powerful, awesome
sight and experience!
Continuing north, we entered the gigantic St Joe National
Forest, located in parts of Shoshone, Latah, Clearwater, and Benewah counties.
The enormous Idaho panhandle forest is the wild and rugged home to Idaho
wildlife, large and small. At Bovill, an old Potlatch Lumber Company town, we
saw the old Hotel and Opera House. We had a picnic lunch at Bovill, then
crossed the St. Maries River, following it downstream, to its confluence with
the St Joe River, at the town of St Maries. In traversing the back-country, we
quite frequently travel river-roads that likely date back to foot-paths. In the
Idaho back-country, rivers are the main corridor that the roads traverse.
Descending into a deep canyon on a road usually means a step climb out, only to
descend into another drainage to take another river road. Hard travel but
stunning scenery and unforgettable experiences! In zig-zagging our way north,
from Boise to St Maries, we had some confusion about river courses, confluences,
and drainages. Road maps can be busy and difficult in referencing rivers
systems. Thanks to the Internet, I found this handy, one-page reference map,
that proved very useful.
Wednesday, May 9, 2018
Following a very enjoyable visit with our friend “Ranger
Beth” and a two-day stay at Heyburn State Park, we pointed north and resumed
our trip to Flathead Lake, Montana. Our return to Heyburn State Park, on Coeur
d’ Alene Lake, after working two seasons (2011/2012), brought back a lot of
memories. We walked, bird-watched, cooked-out, and enjoyed the towering conifer
trees and Spring flowers. Great place!
Taking ID 3 out of St. Maries, we followed up the swollen Coeur d’ Alene River and then over the Coeur d’ Alene Mountains,
to eastbound I-90. Again, following the Coeur d’ Alene River
to Cataldo’s “Scared Heart Mission”, then continuing up the “Silver Valley” to
Lookout Pass. Crossing the Bitterroot Mountains into Montana, we cruised down
to St Regis and a campsite at St Regis RV Park.
The Coeur d' Alene's Old Mission, now a State Park,
spotlights the oldest building in Idaho. The Mission of the Sacred Heart was
constructed between 1850 and 1853 by Catholic missionaries and members of the
Coeur d' Alene Tribe. The park features the Sacred Heart Mission church, a
restored Parish House and a historic cemetery.
Here, you can understand the dynamics and complexities between Father De
Smet, Jesuit missionaries and the tribal people, as they tried to assimilate
into the changing culture. Located near the Trail of the Coeur d' Alene, one of
the most spectacular biking trails in the Western United States, it’s a popular
stop for bicyclists.
Silver Valley (Coeur d' Alene Mining District) is a narrow,
40-mile valley, traversed by I-90 and the South Fork of the Coeur d'Alene River.
Pinehurst, Smelterville, Kellogg, Wardner, Osburn, Silverton, Wallace, and
Mullan, old mining towns, are located in the valley. Looking at these towns is
like going back to 1800’s or seeing an old western movie set. Climbing on up to
Lookout Pass(4725 ft)(the Idaho/Montana line), in the Coeur d'Alene Mountains
of the Bitterroot Range, we saw large snow drifts and snow-capped mountains,
all feeding the spring runoff of the cold, swollen rivers.
East, down I-90, to St Regis, Montana, at the confluence of
the St. Regis River and the Clark Fork River, we took a campsite, on Montana
135 toward Flathead Lake. Along this renowned route, we saw numerous historical
monuments, markers, and sites, all commemorating the “westward expansion”,
“gold rush”, and settlement periods. It occurred to me that this history just
“dusts the surface” because the history of Native American Nations dates back
more than 10-thousand years. I plan to learn more about the Native American
Nations this summer, by visiting tribal headquarters, museum of Indians,
attending pow wow’s, storytelling, and performances.
Thursday, May 10,
2018
After a rainy start, we took MT 135, following the Clark
Fork River downstream, to MT 28. This route crosses part of the Lolo National
Forest, between the Coeur d’ Alene Mountains and the Cabinet Mountains. Lots of
snowmelt is yet to come, as snow is deep and still accumulating on the higher
elevations. Along the way, we crossed the confluence of the Flathead River with
the Clark Fork River. This was a river-side drive that was both beautiful and
frightening. These rivers like many NW Montana rivers, are above flood stage
and expected to crest, breaking a 100-year record. Witnessing this boiling,
churning, turbulence, at major flood stage, so close to the water, was very
unnerving. Nothing could survive going into that roaring, cold, fast water. Along
the Camas Valley we saw spectacular landscape, with dramatic mountain views, framing
open plains. Just north of Paradise, we left the river, taking MT 28 up to Elmo
and the junction with US 93. This route skirts the southern end of the Salish
Mountains and the western Flathead Indian Reservation. The green valleys and
ranchlands were nice to see. We frequently saw yellow blankets of Arrowleaf
Balsamroot, on south-facing slopes. I also saw some Camas that were not yet
blooming.
Following a roadside (power substation) picnic lunch, we
took US 93 north, along the west side of glacial Flathead Lake to Montana’s West
Shore State Park, our summer assignment. US 93 traverses the western shore of magnificent
Flathead Lake, the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River. We
learned that; From its location on the shores of Flathead Lake, Dayton is an
ideal launching point for travel to Wild Horse Island—a primitive day-use state
park on Flathead Lake. Dayton Bay is known for consistent winds, making it a
great place to sail. You can taste the spirit of the region at Dayton's local
family-owned winery, producing world-renowned, award-winning wines, right here
in the Flathead Valley. Outstanding “Flathead” cherries are produced in
orchards around Flathead Lake. Can’t wait to indulge in some of these sweet
little gems! We investigated Proctor,
site of an 1869, Kootenai settlement, and a federal commissary opened there.
Clarence E. Proctor, for whom the community is named, founded a ranch and
opened a store at Proctor in 1883. At the park, we encountered more rain, so we
setup between showers and got our summer-home established. Ron, a park
employee, brought our keys and truck and was very helpful with information and
suggestions.
The West Shore State Park is set on the lakeshore, shaded
by mature Ponderosa Pine, Western Larch, and Douglas Fir, with an understory
predominantly of Ninebark, Oceanspray, ServiceBerry, Snowberry, and numerous
wildflowers. The common name Ninebark refers to the peeling bark of mature
branches, which comes away in strips. Oceanspray, is found in both openings and
the common understory shrub in a variety of forest overstories. Oceanspray has Cascading
clusters of white flowers, drooping from the branches, which give the plant its
name. Serviceberry (Saskatoon) was a vital food of the Native Americans, making
dried cakes and pemmican. The lakeshore is rocky and the cold water is
crystal-clear. A very nice park!
5-12
Today, we encountered a “cowboy funeral” in downtown
Kalispell. The deceased was carried in a flag-draped coffin, aboard a
horse-drawn wagon, with the mourners following on horseback and walking. We
stopped to watch the procession and found that the deceased was a former city
official. A very interesting funeral!
The name Kalispell is a Salish word meaning "flat land
above the lake". Road sighs around the Flathead Valley feature English and
Salish text. After a short investigation, I was completely lost in
understanding much about the Salish language, and their alphabet which is very
difficult ,with unfamiliar characters.
Montana is best traveled with a knowledge of the topography
and the rivers. They remain important obstacles and thoroughfares. This map is helpful:
To have some parts flowing free again . . . with deer
grazing on its banks . . . ducks and geese raising their young in the
backwaters . . . eddies and twists and turns for canoeists . . . and fishing
opportunities such as Lewis and Clark enjoyed . . . would be the finest
possible tribute to the men of the Expedition, and a priceless gift for our children.
— (Stephen Ambrose, Undaunted Courage)
While progress should never come to a halt, there are many
places it should never come to at all. — Paul Newman
Montana Rivers:
Montana Rivers
Lewis and Clark (Montana Routes)
Over the years, on our visits to Montana, we have followed
the Lewis and Clark routes. The river-routes are the most scenic and inspiring
experiences that we have encountered. It’s easy to observe the landmarks and
features which they described in their journals!
From the West Shore State Park, looking east, we overlook
Flathead Lake, the Mission Mountains, the Swan Mountains, and the western slope
of the Continental Divide.
Becoming somewhat perplexed in the naming of Montana’s
mountains, I decided to do a little research; ("Montana" means
mountain in Spanish) A group of mountains is known as a mountain range. A group
of ranges that share a common origin and form are a mountain system. A group of
systems are a mountain chain. A group of ranges, systems and chains are known
as a mountain belt or a cordillera. More confusing, but this is what I found! My
“Montana map” features over 100 separate mountain ranges, named as “ranges” or
“mountains”. For example, the Flathead Range or the Cabinet Mountains.
According to the “Range” definition, all of the named mountain features on my
map should be suffixed as “Range”, so, for example, the “Bitterroot Mountains”
should be called the “Bitterroot Range”.
We would love to see the Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall
Wilderness. If you are not familiar with this great feature, it is a thousand-foot
high, sheer cliff of limestone that stretches unbroken, for 12 miles between
Haystack Mountain and Larch Hill Pass. It’s just east of us, along the
Continental Divide, but a 5 or 6-day hike to make the trip, way too much for
us. “The Bob”, a million-plus acre public land, extends 60 miles along the
Continental Divide, and has NO Roads. Yes, the Bob Marshall Wilderness is that
remote!
On a visit to Whitefish, we met some residents who are
fellow LSU alumni. On the shore of Whitefish Lake and at the base of Big
Mountain, Whitefish is the quintessential mountain town. We shopped for Montana
sapphires, walked the river trail, visited the old main street, and railroad
depot. A fun day-out, at 48 degrees latitude, in the north Flathead Valley!
Our first weeks on Flathead Lake have been a “Song of
Spring”. The silence of winter has gradually given way to the symphony of
spring. Nature’s party has begun and we’re all invited! We have experienced
some significant rains and along with the mountain snowmelt, many rivers have
risen above flood-stage, some exceeding the 100-year flood record. We witnessed
the Clark Fork River at record-high and now it’s even higher, causing flooding
from Missoula to the Kootenai. Conversely, spring is a great time to visit area
waterfalls, some of the largest free-falling waterfalls in the Rocky Mountains.
Regardless, the wildflowers, wildlife,
and birds are phenomenal!
On a recent outing to Columbia Falls, we saw a beautiful
herd of Elk, nonchalantly grazing a lush green hay field. As the gateway to Glacier
National Park, Columbia Falls is “guide central” for outfitters and
Montana-minded shops. We elected not to go into Glacier National Park until
Logan Pass is open (hopefully by July 4th) .
Thursday, May 31, 2018
Today, we explored up the South Fork of the Flathead River
and visited Hungry Horse Dam, right between the Swan and the Flathead Ranges.
We enjoyed the Visitor Center, at the dam and the waterfall just north of the
dam. We were up close to the snow-line and the water was cold and clear. At the
headwaters of the Flathead River, we observe the North Fork flowing south from
Canada, forming the west boundary of Glacier National Park. The Middle Fork flowing west, forms the south
boundary of Glacier and the South Fork from Hungary Horse, all converge to
create the mighty Flathead River, flowing into Flathead Lake, and the Clark
Fork River. We had an exhilarating day!
Notes on Summer
events:
NW Montana Summer Events
Brash Rodeo Blue Moon Arena Thursdays May-Sept 7-10PM
Picnic in the Kalispell Depot Park 6-26 Tuesdays 6-8PM
Wednesdays 11:30-1:30PM
Symphony at Rebecca Farm 7/7-8 7:30-10PM
Lakeside Community Fair 7-14 9-3PM
Montana Raceway 7-19
Art in the Park Kalispell 7/13-15
Rebecca Farm Equestrian 7/18-22
Columbia Falls Heritage Days 7/25-29
Bigfork Arts Festival 8/4-5
Whitefish Huckleberry Days 8/10-12
NW Montana Fair Kalispell 8/15-19
Crown Guitar Festival 8-26/9-1
Friday, June 8, 2018
A benefit of spending five months in an area is that of
gaining an in-depth understanding of the area. Terry calls it an “emersion
experience”, I call it a “noun experience” because you really get to know the
people, places, and things. It’s not uncommon to hear people say, “you guys
know more about the place than me, and I’ve lived here all my life”!
In the “Shining Mountains” of northwest Montana, we have
learned that this “last best place” truly remains a wild place. Visitors have
already been killed by Bears, gored by Bison, killed from rock falls, drowned
in roaring rivers, injured by Elk and Deer, and lost and perished in the Bob
Marshall Wilderness. It’s easy to get in trouble in these mountains! So, part
of our job is to remind visitors to be prepared, safe and vigilant.
