Summer News 2018 around West Shore State Park and NW Montana

Thursday, June 21, 2018

“Montana Summer”, That’s Montana at it’s best! On the first day of summer, we took a day-trip to the southern Mission Valley and enjoyed a magnificent summer day. At Polson, Lake County seat, located at the south end of beautiful Flathead Lake, we adored lake, Wild Horse Island, Mission Mountain, and Swan Mountain views. We relished a picnic lunch at the Flathead Reservation’s Kerr Dam, the outflow of the Flathead River. Flathead Lake is a natural, glacial-made lake; however, the 1938 Kerr Dam was built to control the lake-level and produce hydroelectric energy. The dam facilitates controlling the lake-level by ten feet to accommodate winter and summer requirements. How many gallons of water are contained in an area of 200 square-miles by 10 feet deep?

Opportunely, we met a Kootenai Medicine Man who shared an interesting story of his life and experiences, on the reservation. A very captivating and fascinating encounter!

Next, we visited the old Mission at St. Ignatius. Founded by Jesuit’s in 1854, near the last Hudson Bay trading post, the original Jesuit’s wood cabin still exists. The present Church was constructed in 1891 and still celebrates Mass. The Church Art was created by the cook, brother Joseph Carignano.

The Mission Valley today was a huge, flat, green expanse with stunning views of the snow-capped, craggy peaks of the Mission Mountains.

Monday, 6-25

Today, we made a pull over to Helena for 4 days of rubber-necking and sightseeing. We traveled MT83, down the Swan Valley, nestled between the craggy, snow-capped Mission Mountains and the Swan Mountains, to MT200.

On MT83, we followed the east shore of Swan Lake, south, up the Swan River, then down the Clearwater River to MT200. Snowmelt was coming down every run and rivers were whitewater ribbons. The Swan Valley offers stunning views of Swan Lake, Flathead National Forest, Swan Lake State Forest, and Lolo National Forest. The region is sparsely settled, with small communities economically dependent on a mixture of logging and tourism. The largest communities along the MT83 route are Swan Lake, Condon, and Seeley Lake. Swan Lake is a popular tourist destination, with all the amenities and numerous professional guide services. We recalled a dry-camp night that we spent in Condon, several years back. Around here, there are lots of quiet, free camp-spots with nice scenery. Seeley Lake is home to the world-record, 1000-year-old Western Larch.

At Clearwater Junction, we took MT200 through the high Blackfoot River Valley, the perfect scenic blend of old and new. The river is featured in the 1976 film “A River Runs Through It”, starring Brad Pitt. Western Montana’s Blackfoot River has become one of the state’s most popular and important recreational streams. Its natural setting, scenic, features, and the fame gained from the movie “A River Runs Through It”, have all contributed to its popularity. At Ovando, one-hundred-year-old buildings nestled onto the beautiful valley floor, with the Swan and Garnet mountains rising from its distant edges, perfectly define what the “Big Sky Montana” means. Hundreds of thousands of acres of open ranch country surround you.

At Nevada Creek, we left MT200 and took MT141 along Nevada Creek to US 12 at Avon, Montana. Along MT141, we saw Nevada Creek and reservoir, a Mecca for trout fishing.

Intersecting US12 at Avon, we followed the Little Blackfoot River up to MacDonald Pass (6320’) at the Continental Divide, and then down to Helena, on the eastern slope. Picturesque Avon, Montana sits on the banks of the Little Blackfoot River at the intersection of US Highway 12 and MT Highway 141. The name Avon comes from the Welsh, for river. Perhaps the mountains and river bottom around Avon reminded a Welsh settler of home. On a sunny, warm mid-day, we explored the small town for a shady picnic spot but were unsuccessful, so we continued on up the picturesque river. MacDonald Pass is an old toll road, turned into an improved US highway, taking us over the pass and down to Helena.

We took our site at the Lincoln Road RV Park, a convenient location on MT279 at north Helena. In Helena, we joined the “Last Chance Tour Train”, a motorized, wheeled, street-train providing a guided tour around the old downtown area. After a very enjoyable and informative tour, we visited the State Capitol, Montana History Museum and the Montana State Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks (our summer job). The 49ers, an assortment of ethnic backgrounds from around the world, brought an interesting mix of culture to Helena. It remains evident today in the architecture, historical monuments, frescoes, landscaping, and local food. Last Chance Gulch, the Helena historic district, really sums up the early days of Helena.

The State Capitol was an outstanding overview of Montana history, art, and culture. At the Montana History Museum, my favorite was the Charles M. Russell collection. I always associated bronze sculptures with Russell but the priceless painting collection was mesmerizing.  His paintings just convey volumes about the life and times of the subjects.

Today, it was like going to Europe when we visited the magnificent Cathedral overlooking Helena and the Helena Valley. Indeed, materials such as the windows, and marble interior were imported from Europe. The exterior, with its striking twin-spires, front elevation’s artistic façade and massive, hand-carved doors, are all framed with gorgeous landscaping. The Cathedral of Saint Helena is the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Helena, Montana. Modeled by architect A.O. Von Herbulis after the Votivkirche in Vienna, Austria, the construction began on the Cathedral in 1908, and held its first mass in November 1914.

Next, we visited the original Montana Governor’s Mansion, a stately, 1888 Queen Anne style mansion. The corner mansion is surrounded by a neighborhood of architectural wonders. It is important to know what has been to appreciate what has been preserved, and these homes are a fine example.

Finally, we visited Reeder’s Alley, one of Montana’s oldest streets, and where miners first found “color” that ushered in the astounding gold find. Later, women came and turned the cabins and cribs into a fine city, called Helena. I was so impressed to discover trees that were descendants of saplings that a young woman brought over the old trail.

Helena, the Montana State Capitol and county seat of Lewis and Clark County, has a fascinating story and is a great place to visit!

Thursday, June 28, 2018

After a nice visit in Helena, we broke-camp and headed back to West Shore State Park on Flathead Lake. Taking a slightly different return-route, we departed Helena on MT279 and climbed up to Flesher Pass (6130’) then down to MT200, near the headwaters of the Blackfoot River. Montana 200 (East/West) traverses the State, and we highly recommend the route, for a drive. It connects lots of small towns and is very scenic. MT279 route is very scenic and quickly climbs to 5000-plus feet, then slowly climbs to the summit and over the Continental Divide, then along the downslope to intersect MT200.

Following down he Blackfoot River we could just feel the history! This route was the ancient Nez Perce trail (River of the Road to the Buffalo”, over the Continental Divide to the Buffalo hunting grounds on the plains. In meeting, they told the Lewis and Clark Expedition about the route and cautioned them about the Blackfoot Nation. On their return trip in July 1806, Lewis and Clark split into two parties, agreeing to meet down on the Missouri River. Unfortunately, the Lewis party and dog Seaman, met-up with a Blackfoot party and some Indians were killed in the skirmish, with some Indians escaping. This necessitated a long, exhausting Lewis-party run toward the Missouri, in order to escape certain death. Today, we saw the confluence of Seaman Creek with the Blackfoot River and the “Prairie of the knobs” that Clark described along the route. We also saw the confluence of the Blackfoot River with the Clark Fork River, near Missoula. I just can’t get enough of “Lewis and Clark”!

At Lincoln, their “claim to fame” is that Lewis and party passed here and it’s also the home of the Unabomber. Good and bad history!

The headwaters of the Blackfoot River are “Bull Trout” country, an elite challenge for serious anglers, but protected by law, and restricted to “catch and release”. This was the Dolly Varden trout until 1978 when the inland species were reclassified as Bull Trout. “Spots of black, put it back”!

Here, along the Blackfoot River, you understand the quote from: A River Runs Through It, by Norman Maclean;

“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the worlds great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of the rocks are raindrops. Under the rocks are words, and some of the words are theirs. I am haunted by waters”.

Out here, it’s also easy to relate to John Steinbeck’s quote;

“I’m in love with Montana. For other States I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection. But with Montana it is love, and it’s difficult to analyze love when you are in it.”

At Missoula, we took US93 to Flathead Lake and West Shore State Park. Traveling through the Jocko River Valley and the Flathead Reservation, then into the Mission Valley and the Salish, Kootenai, and Pend Oreille Reservation. It’s getting to be POW WOW time and we’re planning on attending at least one, for the food, drumming, singing, dancing, and story-telling. At Polson, we were back on Flathead Lake and our home-turf. A good rambling-trip!

7-1-18

Back at West Shore State Park, and the Flathead Valley, the landscape is changing. The explosion of radiant Spring flowers is now “going to seed”, the wildlife is busy raising young, and like all living things, asking the age-old question, “what’s for dinner”? Our spring has been a time of unsurpassed wonder and beauty. This Spring, the sunny skies and warming temperatures of the season worked their miracles on this verdant valley, turning snow to water and beckoning buds from bare branches. Winter’s white blanket transformed into a rainbow of wildflowers. You have to experience it to believe it!

Most vacationers come to Northwest Montana during the long, dry, warm days of summer. The Region is home to two of the most popular travel destinations of the Pacific Northwest, Glacier National Park and Flathead Lake. Now, Northwest Montana puts on its summer show. July is the busiest month of the season, and our computer reservations are booked solid. We see people from around the US and the world, all coming to see the wonders of the “Shining Mountains” in NW Montana. We enjoy meeting and talking to the diversity of people. I never fail to learn something in talking to people, especially about the special places in the world we call home. An artist, in a lifetime could not paint all the images in my mind, gained as a result of our ramblings.

Monday, July 9, 2018

On a recent day-trip, we traveled to Thompson Falls, on the Clark Fork River.

From Flathead Lake, we took the backroads to Pablo Reservoir, for some waterfowl viewing. The refuge is nesting habitat for numerous bird species such as the green-winged teal, Canada goose, bittern, and great blue heron. Our special treat was seeing Trumpeter Swans. The reservoir is situated on Trust Lands of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes.

At Charlo, we saw Ninepipe NWR and a good example of the Flathead Indian Reservation. Originally used as a trail crossing in the lush Mission Valley, Charlo was named after Chief Charlo of the Flathead Indian Tribe. Charlo upholds the history of the region, most notably with the Ninepipe Museum of Early Montana and the nearby National Bison Range. The valley also offers stunning views of the Mission and Swan Mountains and is ideal for bird-watching on Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge.

The vast Flathead Indian Reservation, located west of the Continental Divide, in western Montana, on the Flathead River, is home to the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d'Oreille Tribes. Ninepipe NWR, another wildlife refuge situated on the Flathead Reservation, is a unit of the National Bison Range Complex. The National Bison Range Complex includes four National Wildlife Refuges and the Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, all located on the Reservation.

At Moiese, we saw bison on the National Bison Range and the confluence of the Little Bitterroot River and Jocko River, with the lower Flathead River. Moiese is located within the Flathead Indian Reservation, in northwestern Montana. A nearby attraction is the National Bison Range established in 1908 to provide a sanctuary for the American bison and it is one of the oldest National Wildlife Refuges in the US. It also provides habitat for elk, deer, pronghorn, black bears, and coyotes. More than 200 species of birds also call this home and include eagles, hawks, meadowlarks, bluebirds, ducks, and geese. It has some high, frightening roads, and it’s a (take-your-time) must-see in NW Montana.

The Jocko River descending from the Mission Mountains, and the Little Bitterroot River, flowing from the Salish Mountains, are tributaries of the Flathead River in northwestern Montana. The Jocko, from its headwaters in the Mission Mountains, to its confluence with the Flathead to the west, is situated entirely within the Flathead Indian Reservation. A very scenic River. There are three primary tributaries of the mainstream Jocko River: the North, Middle, and South Forks. The picturesque Little Bitterroot River is impounded by two large lakes, but flows through some remote gorges.

From Dixon, we followed the Flathead River downstream through Perma to Paradise, its confluence with the Clark Fork River. Dixon, a division point along the Northern Pacific Railroad, sits on the Flathead Indian Reservation along the Flathead River. The railroad is very conspicuous, with frequent, lengthy trains, and the Dixon claim-to-fame is “Dixon melons”, best melons in Montana.

Perma is

Paradise is

Following down the Clark Fork River, we visited Plains and Snider.

Near Plains, we entered the narrow valley and gorge, with the Clark Fork River winding gracefully through this lush valley, there are abundant opportunities for fishing, kayaking and rafting. It was founded as Horse Plains and sometimes called Wild Horse Plains, as the local American Indians historically wintered their horses here to feed on the grasses in the valley. The name was later shortened to Plains when the US Postal Service established a presence in 1905. This river route was part of the ancient “Road to the Buffalo” used by Native Americans traveling to Buffalo hunts on the eastern-slope plains. In a light rain, we observed a large herd of Elk, feeding nonchalantly in a green pasture.

Just up from the mouth of Thompson River, is the site of “Saleesh House”, the old North West Company fur trading post, founded by David Thompson in 1809. Lost to history but now rediscovered, thanks to the University of Montana Archaeology Department. This had prompted me to read two very fascinating books on David Thompson, an incredible fur trader, explorer, cartographer, and astronomer. In 1807, David Thompson retraced Lewis and Clark’s route to the Pacific via the Clearwater, Snake, and Columbia Rivers, in search of fur-trade opportunities. Unfortunately, the Indians were much less friendly, on that occasion!

Bad Rock Trail, following the Clark Fork and Flathead River canyons, was, for centuries part of the buffalo trail leading through the Rocky Mountains to the buffalo hunting grounds on the Great Plains. The plateau tribes—Kalispel, Pend d'Oreilles (Upper Kalispel), Spokane, Coeur d’Alene, and Kootenai—as well as the nearby Flathead tribe would pass through this area for their buffalo hunts. Plains tribes, primarily the Blackfeet, would travel through the area seeking to capture the good horses raised by the western tribes. Needless to say, they had bad conflicts. We were glad to see the historical marker and understood why David Thompson established his NWC trading post near here.

Clark Fork Dam

Thompson Falls was named after British explorer, geographer and fur trader David Thompson, who founded a North West Company fur trading post called Saleesh House, in 1809. The community is located next to natural waterfalls on the Clark Fork River. The arrival of the railroad in 1881 brought the first real activity to the area. Two years later, when the gold rush hit nearby Cœur d'Alene, the town grew to accommodate the men going over the Murray Trail to the mines. We enjoyed the charming area and our day-trip.

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Thinking Tuesday at GNP would be less-crowded, we packed a picnic lunch and drove over to Glacier National Park. Wrong, we enjoyed the park, took some good pictures, but we found no picnic spot. We drove the Going-to-the-Sun Road up to Logan Pass and the VC lot was full, so we drove down the eastern slope to Jackson Glacier Overlook, where we reversed direction. Driving back west, re-crossing the pass, I found myself crowded by acrophobic, upslope drivers, hugging the center line. Traveling back down the western slope, we encountered the predicted high winds, so we found a pull-out and had lunch in the truck. The GTTS road is spectacular, as it hugs the cliffs and traverses the high precipices, in climbing to Logan Pass (6646’). 

Next, we found a quiet, scenic spot adjacent to a Western Cedar grove, on Lake McDonald. Daisy swam in the cold, clear water and we took a rest, sitting on a large log, with a picturesque view of the pass. As usual, we learned something new; we knew the Continental Divide bisected the park, and Logan Pass crosses it, but we learned that the Continental Divide, southeast of Logan Pass, runs east-west about 45 miles in the Lewis Range, creating a triple-divide. From that three-slope point, water ultimately runs down a north slope to Hudson Bay, down a west slope to the Pacific, and down an east slope to the Gulf. Terry saw a bear and we had a fantastic day at the park!

Friday, July 20, 2018

Boy, is the summer flying by! Today, we checked-out the annual “Event at Rebecca Farm”, in Kalispell. The Event is a four-day, world-class equine triathlon, where riders and their mounts tackle the disciplines of dressage, cross-country, and show jumping. The three sports make-up “eventing”, a formidable test of athleticism for both horse and rider.

Set in the verdant, northern Flathead Valley, surrounded by majestic Northwest Montana mountain ranges, the courses are extraordinary, challenging, entertaining, and educational. From a hilltop, we could observe the entire complex of courses and arenas, getting a good understanding of the trust and discipline between the riders and horses.

One special observation was a young lady and her Clydesdale horse. The untraditional pair performed, jumping the obstacles, with the determination and discipline of the competing thoroughbreds.

With a large vendor area, we were able to shop, buy food and drinks, and relax in the shade of the tents, like a County Fair.  We enjoyed the experience, on a cool, clear day, under a big, blue Montana sky.

Continuing our travel to NW Montana and our Summer 2018 Assignment at West Shore SP on Flathead Lake

Tuesday, May 1, 2018 Mayday

On a cool cloudy morning, we departed Reno, via I-80 eastbound, following down the Truckee River, toward Winnemucca, our destination for the day. Unless you have an off-road vehicle, I-80 is the only route to Winnemucca. The route follows river canyons, with the Trinity Range on the north, and the Humboldt and East Range, on the south.

At Fernley, we bid farewell to the Truckee River as it turned SE to the Carson Sink. At the Humboldt Sink, we followed up the Humboldt River to Winnemucca. These are famous, historic river corridors used by many explorers and trailblazers, seeking a route from the Missouri River to California. As we drove the route, I wondered how Fremont, Carson, and others selected the course they adopted, because one could easily find themselves in a sink of mud and saline water, or upon a deep gulch, with no way down.

In 1984, the natural dike between the Carson Sink and the Humboldt Sink was breached by the Nevada Department of Transportation to prevent Interstate 80 and the town of Lovelock from flooding, due to unusually heavy runoff from snowfall. Now, I guess it’s possible that Truckee River water could flow into and down the Humboldt River, in highwater conditions. Fremont would never have believed it possible!

Between the US 95 South junction, and Lovelock, we crossed the divide between the Truckee and Humboldt watershed, but there are no significant mountain passes on this segment of I-80.

Along the route, we saw nice river views, Carson Sink, Humboldt Sink, natural steam wells and steam pipeline.

Near Mill City, we stopped off for a picnic lunch at a cool, windy parking spot, and enjoyed unique views around the area.

We saw a natural steam pipeline and have not discovered how it’s used.

We saw EP Silica Company, mining a huge deposit of silica.

We saw abandoned and active mines, with mountains of tailings, representing the wide-variety of metals and minerals found in Nevada.

At Winnemucca, Nevada, we took a campsite at the Winnemucca RV Park, a nice little campground, with a view of wide-open spaces and the mountains. Winnemucca straddles the Humboldt River. The town was named for the 19th-century Chief Winnemucca of the local Northern Paiute tribe, who traditionally lived in this area. The chief's daughter, Sarah Winnemucca, was an advocate for education and fair treatment of the Paiute and Shoshone tribes in the area. (We saw a beautiful bronze sculpture of her in the State Capitol at Carson City.) We explored around the town and were not surprised to see five casinos, a huge liquor store, and lots of bars, and a brothel district. Ranching and mining make the economy and the old Winnemucca State Bank and Trust building was most impressive. Some Chinese people remain from a once large community that came as workers (1868) on the transcontinental Central Pacific Railroad. We were also surprised to encounter a thriving Basque Culture at Winnemucca. They came from Spain and France during the “gold rush” and then became sheep and livestock workers due to their traditional skills. We had a good night in Winnemucca!

5-2-2018 Wednesday

This morning, we decided to make a pull from Winnemucca, Nevada, up to Boise, Idaho, via US 95. This route was very scenic and desolate country. Just north of Winnemucca, we encountered the Winnemucca Sand Dunes, largest dunes in the State of Nevada. The rolling hills of dunes cover about 40 acres, averaging about 40-50 feet in height. It’s a popular site for off-road, dune-buggies, not a cheap form of entertainment!

Moving north, we saw the Santa Rosa Range, ruged and snow-capped.

At McDermitt, we entered the State of Oregon. The state line goes through the White Horse Inn, a historical landmark now being restored, which was a saloon, hotel, and (reportedly) brothel. We learned, that “when it was open, food could be ordered and paid for in Oregon, avoiding the Nevada state sales tax”.

US 95 between Winnemucca and McDermitt, has no high passes, just lots of ups and downs, traversing the gulches and valleys. We were surprised to see green, productive valleys, in this arid region, thanks to irrigation.

In Oregon, US 95 traverses a very desolate SE Oregon. The high desert has lots of ups and down, like NW Nevada (Blue Mountain Pass 5293), but irrigated valleys break the arid impression. We saw Pronghorn, hawks and lots of ground squirrels. Cattle and sheep ranching are the main homesteads. In the center of town, at Jordan Valley, stands a pelota fronton, built in 1915 by Basque settlers, many of whom had been recruited from Spain to herd sheep. Their descendants are a noticeable presence today in Malheur County.

Charbonneau gravesite:

Jean Baptiste Charbonneau (Little Pomp) (02/11/1805-05/16/1866) was the son of the French-Canadian Interpreter Toussaint Charbonneau and Sacagawea, the Shoshone Guide of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. He was born at Fort Mandan during the expedition’s journey westward. He was later adopted by Clark and educated to become a successful citizen. His image can be found on the United States dollar coin along with his mother, Sacagawea. He is the only child ever depicted on United States currency. At the age of 61, he set out from California to Montana-the scene of the latest gold strike. While crossing the icy waters of the Owyhee River, he contracted pneumonia and died at the Inskip Stage Station on May 16, 1866 near today’s Danner, Oregon. This was not the end of this great American mountain man; his grave was rediscovered in the 1960’s, dedicated August 6, 1971, and recognized as a Registered National Historic Place on March 14, 1973. Just Off US Hwy 95, at Ruby Ranch.

Crossing into Idaho, US 95 continues through the high desert until suddenly, you start down a steep grade and see the Snake River Valley below, an enormous green valley and plain, growing fruits, vegetables, and numerous other ag crops. Currently, the canola fields are in full bloom, bright yellow blankets, spread among the verdant green fields.

At Boise, Idaho’s Capitol City, we took a campsite at Boise Riverside RV Park, in Garden City, on the Boise River. We took some nice walks on the Boise River trail, adjacent to the RV Park and the State Fairgrounds.

We made a list of the Boise attractions and sights, so we could cruise the town;

The Idaho State Capitol in Boise is the home of the government of the state of Idaho. Although Lewiston, Idaho, briefly served as Idaho's capital from the formation of Idaho Territory in 1863, the territorial Legislature moved the capital to Boise on December 24, 1864. Idaho was admitted to the Union on July 3, 1890, becoming the 43rd state. The “Capitol of Light” lives up to its name, as it is very open and naturally lighted. We found our visit very interesting, informative, and inspirational!

Fort Boise

Old Idaho State Penitentiary

Table Rock Table Rock is a mountain pillar in the western United States, located just south-east of downtown Boise, Idaho, in the foothills of the Boise Range of the Rocky Mountains. Its summit elevation of 3,650 feet above sea level is 900 feet above the city center. Great views!

Boise Towne Square Mall is a large retail complex, with all the major stores and very popular.

World Center for Birds of Prey. The World Center for Birds of Prey in Boise, Idaho, is the headquarters for The Peregrine Fund.

Congregation Ahavath Beth Israel is a synagogue in Boise, Idaho. Its 1896 building is among the oldest synagogue buildings in continuous use in the United States west of the Mississippi River.

The Idaho Botanical Garden is a nonprofit botanical garden located on 50 acres at 2355 North Old Penitentiary Road, Boise, Idaho, United States. Until 1973 the site served as the Old Idaho State Penitentiary's farm and nursery. After the penitentiary was closed, the land lay dormant for more than a decade, and in 1984 the gardens were first created.

Hyde Park, also called the Hyde Park Historic District, is a section of the North End neighborhood in Boise, Idaho known for its several popular eateries and locally owned specialty shops; including the Hyde Park Pub & Grill, Goody's. and G. Wilikers. Located on North 13th Street a few blocks north of Downtown Boise, the Hyde Park Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1982.

The Boise Idaho Temple is the 29th constructed and 27th operating temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. The temple is located in the city of Boise, Idaho. LDS Church leaders discussed building a temple in the western part of Idaho as early as 1939. However, with the majority of church's membership in the eastern part of Idaho, the leaders decided against it and concentrated on building the Idaho Falls Idaho Temple. We have visited the stunning Idaho Falls Temple on a previous trip.

The Boise Depot is a former train station in Boise, Idaho, United States. It was built in 1925 by the Union Pacific Railroad. In 1990 MK-Morrison Knudsen purchased the depot and renovated it to pristine condition. In 1996, the City of Boise took it over and opened it for tours and special events. It is open to the public on Sunday and Monday from 11:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Julia Davis Park is a municipal park in the downtown region of Boise, Idaho. Created in 1907 with a land donation from Thomas Jefferson Davis, it is the first park in the "String of Pearls", the group of parks operated by the Boise Parks and Recreation Department that are located along the Boise River. Being centrally located in Boise, the park contains several prominent sites, including museums such as the Boise Art Museum, the Idaho Historical Museum, and the Idaho Black History Museum, as well as other attractions like Zoo Boise, the Idaho Rose Society, and the Gene Harris Band Shell. The Boise River Greenbelt runs through the park, which is bordered by Broadway Avenue to the east, Capital Boulevard to the west, the Boise River to the south, and Myrtle Street to the north. Other amenities at Julia Davis Park include river access, statues, a rose garden, a playground and tennis court, a pond with paddle boat rentals, and a pedestrian bridge that connects the park with Boise State University.

Albertsons Stadium is an outdoor athletic stadium in the western United States, located on the campus of Boise State University in Boise, Idaho. It is the home field of the Boise State Broncos of the Mountain West Conference. Known as Bronco Stadium for its first 44 seasons, it was renamed in May 2014 when Albertsons, a chain of grocery stores founded by Boise area resident Joe Albertson, purchased the naming rights. It’s a very blue field!

The Western Idaho Fair is the annual de facto state fair of Idaho. It has been held in the capital city of Boise virtually every late summer/early fall since 1897, and annually in the contiguous city of Garden City, adjacent to our RV Park, on the grounds of the Expo Idaho, since 1967. The corresponding Eastern Idaho Fair is held in Blackfoot, Idaho.

Discovery Center of Idaho is an interactive science center in Boise, Idaho located at 131 W. Myrtle St. The Discovery Center of Idaho's mission is to inspire lifelong interest and learning in science, technology, engineering and math.

Friday, May 4, 2018

Today, we departed Boise and headed north on ID State Route 55 to Eagle, then north to Horseshoe Bend. SH-55 then climbed the Payette River canyon to Banks, then its north fork (gorge) to the Long Valley, through the town of Cascade and to Lake Cascade State Park. We took a 2-day campsite at Lake Cascade State Park and spent the afternoon cooking-out, watching birds, mountains, lake, and trees. We were excited to see an Osprey bringing nest material and another carrying a large fish. We also have Loons providing their eerie, beautiful calls.

The route up into the Salmon River Mountains was very scenic. The area mountains are heavily forested, with very few rising above tree-line (approx. 10K feet). At Eagle we crossed the Boise River, then climbed to the Spring Valley and over the Spring Valley Summit, at 4,242 feet, then descended 1,600 feet vertically, on Horseshoe Bend Hill, into Horseshoe Bend, on the Payette River. This was a hard pull up and a steep push down, which gave our gearbox and compression brake a good workout. It’s an interesting observation that sometimes roads/passes are steeper in lower-altitude mountain ranges.

Along the historic Payette River, a major tributary to the Snake River, we observed an old splash-dam site, old mine sites, and roaring whitewater, with outfitters for fishing and river-running. Proceeding up the river, SR55 climbs to scary heights and precipices which made me hold the wheel very tightly. The OMG-drive was worth it because, after crossing the 5200-ft pass into the Round Valley and Lake Cascade, we were rewarded with a blue lake, surrounded by tree-covered, snow-capped mountains. Lake Cascade State Park, “The Mile-High Playground “, is nestled in the majestic Salmon Mountains of central Idaho.

5-5-18 Saturday

A front came through last night, bringing colder temperatures and wind. That made for good sleeping-weather, so we slept-in this morning. This is a very peaceful campground and we are totally relaxed. Today, we plan to hang-out and walk around the lake and explore the flora and fauna. We be lov’in it! This entire line of high valleys has become a summer retreat for Boise and Snake River Valley folks, fleeing from the heat of their desert-fringed cities, for the cool mountains of the Salmon Range.

The campground is populated with towering Ponderosa Pine trees, a favorite perching point for the Osprey. We also observed some large Magpies, Lesser Goldfinch, Western Chickadee, Loons, Western Grebes, and various ducks.

Unfortunately, Terry was attacked by an off-leash German Shepard, in the campground and we had to spend several hours at the hospital getting treatment and stiches. Idaho law requires a police report on dog bites, so we had to do that too. With all that done, we plan to take time to heal and hopefully no complications or further action will be necessary. A very traumatic experience for Terry!

Sunday, May 6, 2018

Departing Cascade in the Salmon Range, we continued north to Orofino, Idaho, and a campsite on the Clearwater River, at Clearwater Crossing RV Park. Along this route, we followed ID 55 through the high Long Valley, through Donnelley ranchlands, to McCall, on Payette Lake, for a hardy “Idaho breakfast”. From McCall, we followed the Little Salmon River to US 95, then downriver to its confluence with the Salmon, at Riggins. Access to the Snake River’s, “Hell’s Canyon” by jet boat is very popular from Lewiston but the not-so-well known access at Riggins does more. You can jet boat or raft from Riggins and see the Salmon River Canyon AND Hell’s Canyon. This ride was a long (all morning) downhill, with spectacular whitewater, falls, geology, and historic sites.

Now, at White Bird, we faced a hard pull up the White Bird Grade and over the summit to Grangeville, on the Camas Prairie. Native presence on the Camas Prairie dates back over 11,000 years ago. The Shoshoni, Northern Piute, and Nez Perce migrated annually to the Camas Prairie to gather camas and yampa for their winter food storage. The prairie is now solid ag fields of wheat and today we saw huge lemon-yellow blankets of Canola (Rape)crops in bloom. We didn’t get any camas bulbs but we did get a delicious cheeseburger and fries at the Hilltop Restaurant.

From Grangeville, we took ID 13 over to the east side of the Camas Prairie and into the Clearwater Mountains. Named for the native perennial camassia or camas, the Camas Prairie bulbs were an important food source for Native Americans.

We immediately encountered a long, steep descent to the South Fork of the Clearwater River and followed it to its confluence with the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River, forming the Clearwater River, at Kooskia. Kooskia is within the Nez Perce Indian Reservation and this is a rich area of Lewis and Clark history. On a previous visit here, I met a Nez Perce descendent of the Lewis and Clark Corps and discovered that there were apparently numerous half-white offspring’s, resulting from their journey. The Indians were especially intrigued with black York, so he probably fathered some children too!

From Here, we followed the Clearwater River down to Orofino, our destination for the day. This is a very special place and I like to imagine that basically, it remains unchanged and recognizable to the Nez Perce. Just across the river, is a flat ground and Ponderosa Pine grove, where the Nez Perce instructed the Corps of Discovery, in making canoes, from Western Red Cedar trees. These canoes took them to the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. Many landmarks and sites mentioned in the Lewis and Clark Journals remain and can be seen today! Also, the Clearwater River flows swiftly, from bank to bank, just as it carried the Corps of Discovery down the Snake, and Columbia Rivers, on their float to the Pacific. I just checked the USGS Current Conditions of the Clearwater River at Orofino, approximately 100 yards wide, was 46 degrees, with a discharge of 50-thousand cubic-feet-per-second. Swollen from snowmelt, it is frightful just to stand next to this powerful river.

Monday, May 7, 2018

With cloudy skies and a light mist, we left Orofino and headed north to Heyburn State Park, near St. Maries. Taking ID 7, we climbed the steep, north side of the Clearwater River Valley, where you can see the whole Clearwater River valley, as you climb. This was a long, hard pull and a scary but scenic road. Climbing out of the Clearwater River Valley, we crossed the rolling hills of the Palouse, in Latah County, with enormous agricultural fields and ranches, spread over the steep hillsides. This area produces mostly wheat, with hay and grazing fields interspersed.

As we continued north, we descended into a deep canyon and crossed the North Fork of the Clearwater River, on a narrow bridge, immediately intersecting ID 3. Taking ID 3 north, we had another hard-pull up the west side of the canyon. Along this climb, at about 3-thousand feet, we saw an unusual formation in an exposed road-cut. A 50-foot layer of yellow, compacted, volcanic ash was capped with a thick layer of volcanic basalt, hardened into a mass of hexagonal vertical columns. Basalt columns are formed from cooling lava that weathers naturally to produce earthy colors such as light and deep browns, rusty reds as well as light greens. The underlying yellow ash layer had a network of small holes made by nesting Swallows, and hundreds of swarming Swallows, were busy with their annual Spring mating/nesting ritual. A short distance north, at another road-cut, we observed another mass of basalt columns, in a horizontal position, with the ends exposed. What a powerful, awesome sight and experience!

Continuing north, we entered the gigantic St Joe National Forest, located in parts of Shoshone, Latah, Clearwater, and Benewah counties. The enormous Idaho panhandle forest is the wild and rugged home to Idaho wildlife, large and small. At Bovill, an old Potlatch Lumber Company town, we saw the old Hotel and Opera House. We had a picnic lunch at Bovill, then crossed the St. Maries River, following it downstream, to its confluence with the St Joe River, at the town of St Maries. In traversing the back-country, we quite frequently travel river-roads that likely date back to foot-paths. In the Idaho back-country, rivers are the main corridor that the roads traverse. Descending into a deep canyon on a road usually means a step climb out, only to descend into another drainage to take another river road. Hard travel but stunning scenery and unforgettable experiences! In zig-zagging our way north, from Boise to St Maries, we had some confusion about river courses, confluences, and drainages. Road maps can be busy and difficult in referencing rivers systems. Thanks to the Internet, I found this handy, one-page reference map, that proved very useful.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Following a very enjoyable visit with our friend “Ranger Beth” and a two-day stay at Heyburn State Park, we pointed north and resumed our trip to Flathead Lake, Montana. Our return to Heyburn State Park, on Coeur d’ Alene Lake, after working two seasons (2011/2012), brought back a lot of memories. We walked, bird-watched, cooked-out, and enjoyed the towering conifer trees and Spring flowers. Great place!

Taking ID 3 out of St. Maries, we followed up the swollen Coeur d’ Alene River and then over the Coeur d’ Alene Mountains, to eastbound I-90. Again, following the Coeur d’ Alene River to Cataldo’s “Scared Heart Mission”, then continuing up the “Silver Valley” to Lookout Pass. Crossing the Bitterroot Mountains into Montana, we cruised down to St Regis and a campsite at St Regis RV Park.

The Coeur d' Alene's Old Mission, now a State Park, spotlights the oldest building in Idaho. The Mission of the Sacred Heart was constructed between 1850 and 1853 by Catholic missionaries and members of the Coeur d' Alene Tribe. The park features the Sacred Heart Mission church, a restored Parish House and a historic cemetery.  Here, you can understand the dynamics and complexities between Father De Smet, Jesuit missionaries and the tribal people, as they tried to assimilate into the changing culture. Located near the Trail of the Coeur d' Alene, one of the most spectacular biking trails in the Western United States, it’s a popular stop for bicyclists.

Silver Valley (Coeur d' Alene Mining District) is a narrow, 40-mile valley, traversed by I-90 and the South Fork of the Coeur d'Alene River. Pinehurst, Smelterville, Kellogg, Wardner, Osburn, Silverton, Wallace, and Mullan, old mining towns, are located in the valley. Looking at these towns is like going back to 1800’s or seeing an old western movie set. Climbing on up to Lookout Pass(4725 ft)(the Idaho/Montana line), in the Coeur d'Alene Mountains of the Bitterroot Range, we saw large snow drifts and snow-capped mountains, all feeding the spring runoff of the cold, swollen rivers.

East, down I-90, to St Regis, Montana, at the confluence of the St. Regis River and the Clark Fork River, we took a campsite, on Montana 135 toward Flathead Lake. Along this renowned route, we saw numerous historical monuments, markers, and sites, all commemorating the “westward expansion”, “gold rush”, and settlement periods. It occurred to me that this history just “dusts the surface” because the history of Native American Nations dates back more than 10-thousand years. I plan to learn more about the Native American Nations this summer, by visiting tribal headquarters, museum of Indians, attending pow wow’s, storytelling, and performances.

 Thursday, May 10, 2018

After a rainy start, we took MT 135, following the Clark Fork River downstream, to MT 28. This route crosses part of the Lolo National Forest, between the Coeur d’ Alene Mountains and the Cabinet Mountains. Lots of snowmelt is yet to come, as snow is deep and still accumulating on the higher elevations. Along the way, we crossed the confluence of the Flathead River with the Clark Fork River. This was a river-side drive that was both beautiful and frightening. These rivers like many NW Montana rivers, are above flood stage and expected to crest, breaking a 100-year record. Witnessing this boiling, churning, turbulence, at major flood stage, so close to the water, was very unnerving. Nothing could survive going into that roaring, cold, fast water. Along the Camas Valley we saw spectacular landscape, with dramatic mountain views, framing open plains. Just north of Paradise, we left the river, taking MT 28 up to Elmo and the junction with US 93. This route skirts the southern end of the Salish Mountains and the western Flathead Indian Reservation. The green valleys and ranchlands were nice to see. We frequently saw yellow blankets of Arrowleaf Balsamroot, on south-facing slopes. I also saw some Camas that were not yet blooming.

Following a roadside (power substation) picnic lunch, we took US 93 north, along the west side of glacial Flathead Lake to Montana’s West Shore State Park, our summer assignment. US 93 traverses the western shore of magnificent Flathead Lake, the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River. We learned that; From its location on the shores of Flathead Lake, Dayton is an ideal launching point for travel to Wild Horse Island—a primitive day-use state park on Flathead Lake. Dayton Bay is known for consistent winds, making it a great place to sail. You can taste the spirit of the region at Dayton's local family-owned winery, producing world-renowned, award-winning wines, right here in the Flathead Valley. Outstanding “Flathead” cherries are produced in orchards around Flathead Lake. Can’t wait to indulge in some of these sweet little gems!  We investigated Proctor, site of an 1869, Kootenai settlement, and a federal commissary opened there. Clarence E. Proctor, for whom the community is named, founded a ranch and opened a store at Proctor in 1883. At the park, we encountered more rain, so we setup between showers and got our summer-home established. Ron, a park employee, brought our keys and truck and was very helpful with information and suggestions.

The West Shore State Park is set on the lakeshore, shaded by mature Ponderosa Pine, Western Larch, and Douglas Fir, with an understory predominantly of Ninebark, Oceanspray, ServiceBerry, Snowberry, and numerous wildflowers. The common name Ninebark refers to the peeling bark of mature branches, which comes away in strips. Oceanspray, is found in both openings and the common understory shrub in a variety of forest overstories. Oceanspray has Cascading clusters of white flowers, drooping from the branches, which give the plant its name. Serviceberry (Saskatoon) was a vital food of the Native Americans, making dried cakes and pemmican. The lakeshore is rocky and the cold water is crystal-clear. A very nice park!

5-12

Today, we encountered a “cowboy funeral” in downtown Kalispell. The deceased was carried in a flag-draped coffin, aboard a horse-drawn wagon, with the mourners following on horseback and walking. We stopped to watch the procession and found that the deceased was a former city official. A very interesting funeral!

The name Kalispell is a Salish word meaning "flat land above the lake". Road sighs around the Flathead Valley feature English and Salish text. After a short investigation, I was completely lost in understanding much about the Salish language, and their alphabet which is very difficult ,with unfamiliar characters.

Montana is best traveled with a knowledge of the topography and the rivers. They remain important obstacles and thoroughfares. This map is helpful:

To have some parts flowing free again . . . with deer grazing on its banks . . . ducks and geese raising their young in the backwaters . . . eddies and twists and turns for canoeists . . . and fishing opportunities such as Lewis and Clark enjoyed . . . would be the finest possible tribute to the men of the Expedition, and a priceless gift for our children. — (Stephen Ambrose, Undaunted Courage)

While progress should never come to a halt, there are many places it should never come to at all. — Paul Newman

Montana Rivers:

Montana Rivers

Lewis and Clark (Montana Routes)

Over the years, on our visits to Montana, we have followed the Lewis and Clark routes. The river-routes are the most scenic and inspiring experiences that we have encountered. It’s easy to observe the landmarks and features which they described in their journals!

From the West Shore State Park, looking east, we overlook Flathead Lake, the Mission Mountains, the Swan Mountains, and the western slope of the Continental Divide.

Becoming somewhat perplexed in the naming of Montana’s mountains, I decided to do a little research; ("Montana" means mountain in Spanish) A group of mountains is known as a mountain range. A group of ranges that share a common origin and form are a mountain system. A group of systems are a mountain chain. A group of ranges, systems and chains are known as a mountain belt or a cordillera. More confusing, but this is what I found! My “Montana map” features over 100 separate mountain ranges, named as “ranges” or “mountains”. For example, the Flathead Range or the Cabinet Mountains. According to the “Range” definition, all of the named mountain features on my map should be suffixed as “Range”, so, for example, the “Bitterroot Mountains” should be called the “Bitterroot Range”.

We would love to see the Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. If you are not familiar with this great feature, it is a thousand-foot high, sheer cliff of limestone that stretches unbroken, for 12 miles between Haystack Mountain and Larch Hill Pass. It’s just east of us, along the Continental Divide, but a 5 or 6-day hike to make the trip, way too much for us. “The Bob”, a million-plus acre public land, extends 60 miles along the Continental Divide, and has NO Roads. Yes, the Bob Marshall Wilderness is that remote!

On a visit to Whitefish, we met some residents who are fellow LSU alumni. On the shore of Whitefish Lake and at the base of Big Mountain, Whitefish is the quintessential mountain town. We shopped for Montana sapphires, walked the river trail, visited the old main street, and railroad depot. A fun day-out, at 48 degrees latitude, in the north Flathead Valley!

Our first weeks on Flathead Lake have been a “Song of Spring”. The silence of winter has gradually given way to the symphony of spring. Nature’s party has begun and we’re all invited! We have experienced some significant rains and along with the mountain snowmelt, many rivers have risen above flood-stage, some exceeding the 100-year flood record. We witnessed the Clark Fork River at record-high and now it’s even higher, causing flooding from Missoula to the Kootenai. Conversely, spring is a great time to visit area waterfalls, some of the largest free-falling waterfalls in the Rocky Mountains.  Regardless, the wildflowers, wildlife, and birds are phenomenal!

On a recent outing to Columbia Falls, we saw a beautiful herd of Elk, nonchalantly grazing a lush green hay field. As the gateway to Glacier National Park, Columbia Falls is “guide central” for outfitters and Montana-minded shops. We elected not to go into Glacier National Park until Logan Pass is open (hopefully by July 4^th) .

Thursday, May 31, 2018

Today, we explored up the South Fork of the Flathead River and visited Hungry Horse Dam, right between the Swan and the Flathead Ranges. We enjoyed the Visitor Center, at the dam and the waterfall just north of the dam. We were up close to the snow-line and the water was cold and clear. At the headwaters of the Flathead River, we observe the North Fork flowing south from Canada, forming the west boundary of Glacier National Park.  The Middle Fork flowing west, forms the south boundary of Glacier and the South Fork from Hungary Horse, all converge to create the mighty Flathead River, flowing into Flathead Lake, and the Clark Fork River. We had an exhilarating day!

 Notes on Summer events:

NW Montana Summer Events

Brash Rodeo Blue Moon Arena Thursdays May-Sept 7-10PM

Picnic in the Kalispell Depot Park 6-26 Tuesdays 6-8PM Wednesdays 11:30-1:30PM

Symphony at Rebecca Farm 7/7-8 7:30-10PM

Lakeside Community Fair 7-14 9-3PM

Montana Raceway 7-19

Art in the Park Kalispell 7/13-15

Rebecca Farm Equestrian 7/18-22

Columbia Falls Heritage Days 7/25-29

Bigfork Arts Festival 8/4-5

Whitefish Huckleberry Days 8/10-12

NW Montana Fair Kalispell 8/15-19

Crown Guitar Festival 8-26/9-1

Friday, June 8, 2018

A benefit of spending five months in an area is that of gaining an in-depth understanding of the area. Terry calls it an “emersion experience”, I call it a “noun experience” because you really get to know the people, places, and things. It’s not uncommon to hear people say, “you guys know more about the place than me, and I’ve lived here all my life”!

In the “Shining Mountains” of northwest Montana, we have learned that this “last best place” truly remains a wild place. Visitors have already been killed by Bears, gored by Bison, killed from rock falls, drowned in roaring rivers, injured by Elk and Deer, and lost and perished in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. It’s easy to get in trouble in these mountains! So, part of our job is to remind visitors to be prepared, safe and vigilant.

Ending season at Lake Cahuilla/Visit by sister Rose/On to Flathead Lake

4-2-2018 Our notes help us to remember our adventures, we share with friends and family too. You may or may not be aware of these nouns (people/places/things), so enjoy and please share your own experience!

On April 1^st, we finished our assignment at Lake Cahuilla and headed over to LA for a visit. Saying goodbyes to the delightful people we work with is grim but we look forward to seeing 4them again.

We took a scenic campsite at Dockweiler Beach RV Park, on the Pacific Ocean, west of LAX, a perfect location for exploring LA. Sister Rose joined us at LAX, for our ten-day LA visit. We had a splendid time in LA, visiting our selected points of interest. For transportation, we drove, took the Metro, UBER, and bus tours. First, we took an all-day, city-wide, narrated bus-tour of the LA area. Very informative and lots of fun! Next, we visited lots of the LA attractions and sights. Our favorites were; Getty Museum, historic Downtown, Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Griffith Park, Getty Villa, Santa Monica, Malibu, Getty Villa, Adamson House, baseball at Dodger Stadium (got on the Kiss-Cam), numerous restaurants, and morning coffee at Marina Del Rey. We had loads of fun and we all have great memories of our experiences.

Leaving LA, we drove down to San Diego, for a week at the Circle RV Resort in El Cajon. In San Diego, we drove to our points of interest and found convenient parking. First, we took the narrated trolley-tour, which has hop-on, hop-off stops at numerous historic and scenic sights, around the city. On the narrated Harbor Cruise, we got a unique perspective of the points of interest, along the south and north harbor. Our favorite San Diego experiences were; Old Town, Balboa Park, Point Loma, Navy Yard, Coronado Island, Mission San Diego de Alcalá, scrumptious seafood, and fantastic weather.

After a week at San Diego, we headed north, toward our summer assignment, at Flathead Lake, in northwest Montana. Along the way, we intend to explore eastern California, and western Nevada, along the Sierra Nevada Chain, dropping sister Rose at some airport, for her return home.

POST

We took US 395(the old El Camino Sierra), off I-15 to Adelanto (Altitude 2871) for lunch, then across the western Mojave Desert, continuing up into the Owens Valley. Adelanto is a city in San Bernardino County, California, in the Victor Valley area of the Mojave Desert, known as the northern region of California’s “Inland Empire”. We had lunch, did some research, planned some sightseeing, and headed north on a warm day, through the arid desert.

We followed US 395(the California Gold Rush corridor)  up the eastern side of California, exploring the towns and attractions, as we traveled north.

Kramer Junction, located in the Mojave Desert at the intersection of U.S. Route 395 and State Route 58, is a large commercial/industrial area. We saw a huge solar electric generating station, taking advantage of the desert sun by capturing heat from the sun. These gigantic solar-collecting arrays look like a large shinning-sea in the sands of the desert. Very curious!

Red Mountain/Johannesburg/Randsburg: Johannesburg was founded to support gold and silver mining operations at Randsburg. In addition to providing rail access, the region's first wells were operated by companies located in Johannesburg. During the first half of the 20th Century, the Rand Mining District was the principal gold producing region of California. Activity centered on the Yellow Aster Mine, discovered in 1894. In 1919, the Rand Silver Mine was discovered east of town on Red Mountain. The Rand Mine produced more silver than any mine in California. The evidence of massive mining projects is still clearly visible on the slopes, in the form of mine tailings, old abandoned equipment, and weathering structures.

Johannesburg was named by miners who had previously worked in the gold-producing region of South Africa. Containing the city of Johannesburg, South Africa, this region is in the Witwatersrand, and is frequently referred to as "the Rand." The California mines are replaced with commercial/industrial businesses but descendants of these early worker-immigrants are still paying California taxes! 

Ridgecrest(2290-ft), adjacent to the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake, provided us with an RV site at the County Fairground. Nothing fancy, but a quiet and peaceful rest. I recall a 1977 visit to the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake, when I was working for the Navy in Seattle. They sent me on a project, incorporating raster imaging into digital text documentation, and it was so hot that the air-conditioned offices were even uncomfortable. Ridgecrest is surrounded by four mountain ranges; the Sierra Nevada on the west, the Cosos on the north, the Argus Range on the east, and the El Paso Mountains on the south. Solar Energy Generating Systems sites, SEGS III-VII are located less than a mile to the northwest.

Traveling north we left the desert and entered the increasingly-higher elevations of the Owens Valley.

Google says: Owens Valley is the arid valley of the Owens River in eastern California in the United States, to the east of the Sierra Nevada and west of the White Mountains and Inyo Mountains on the west edge of the Great Basin section. The mountain peaks on either side reach above 14,000 feet in elevation, while the floor of the Owens Valley is about 4,000 feet, making the valley one of the deepest in the United States. The Sierra Nevada casts the valley in a rain-shadow, which makes Owens Valley "the Land of Little Rain." The bed of Owens Lake, now a predominantly dry endorheic alkali flat, sits on the southern end of the valley.

The 400-plus-mile, Los Angeles Aqueduct delivers water from the Owens Valley to LA. The gravity-flow aqueduct can be seen along the entire route, flowing from the high-north to the low-south, and continuing down to LA. Taking the majority of water to LA!

At Lone Pine (3727-ft) we admired the visually-stunning Alabama Hills and Mt. Whitney, highest mountain in California and the lower 48 states. Ironically, the lowest point in North America is just east, in Death Valley. Both Mount Whitney on the west, and Death Valley’s Panamint Mountains on the east, are visible from US 395, at this point. We took a drive into the Alabama Hills and up to 8-thousand feet, in the Sierra Nevada before the snow blocked the route. (a high OMG road with a terrifying turn-around) The colorful, rounded contours of the (foreground) The Alabama Hills contrast with the sharp, sawtooth ridges of the (background) snow-capped Sierra Nevada, to the west, in an indescribable scene. Now we know why so many western movies were filmed on this location!  We took a campsite at Boulder Creek RV Resort, a quiet, comfortable spot, for a nice rest. Two things just humbled us:

1.    The RV Park keeps native, giant Tortoise Turtles, some very old

2.    In the morning, with clear skies, the Alabama Hills in the foreground of the towering, snow-covered Sierra Nevada Range, presented a surreal, breathtaking sight.

We also observed the dramatic strike-fault line, where seismic activity had caused a dramatic vertical and horizontal shift in the geography, exposing some impressive layers of earth. Just north of Lone Pine, the highway passes by Manzanar National Historic Site, a concentration camp where Japanese Americans were imprisoned during World War II. The streets and some building foundations remain from the old camp but we felt the unfortunate circumstance that prevailed here. I admire the Japanese Americans who suffered here, but quietly returned to their American homes, to resume their lives as American citizens.

At Independence (3930), we observed the Pacific Crest Trail, following the mountains from Mexico to Canada across California, Oregon, and Washington.

Nearby is where the Los Angeles Aqueduct is tapped from the Owens River; with more vegetation visible north of this point. We could readily detect the difference water makes, as the valley became fertile and green, north of the aqueduct intake. We admired the vast green alfalfa, onion, wheat, and other ag fields along the route. In this portion of the valley is Big Pine and the Big Pine Indian Reservation.

Big Pine(3989) has a significant geologic feature (an earthquake scarp) related to the 1872 Lone Pine earthquake. A fault scarp is a small step or offset on the ground surface where one side of a fault has moved vertically with respect to the other. At some points, the offset was very dramatic. We experience frequent quakes in the Coachella Valley but it’s hard to imagine what this massive quake would have felt like.

At Bishop(4150-ft), on the north end of the Owens Valley, we loved to see this attractive little tourist and recreation town, offering summer and winter outdoor activities. We loved seeing the rustic town, with its neat, attractive, historic shops, public buildings, and residences. No wonder this was the location for numerous “western movies”. What a scenic location to visit!  Some historic visitors were: Jedediah Smith, Joseph Walker, John C. Fremont, Kit Carson, all passing here on various expeditions.

This quaint, old-west area, was the ancestral lands of the Paiute Indians. The valley became large cattle ranches, and with the loss of water to LA, developed a serious economic conflict. Now tourism is the main economic enterprise. Beautiful place.

Mammoth Lakes(7880-ft) provided a nice picnic area for us. Set in a grove of Ponderosa Pines, we lunched, walked, and read the information boards, describing the area. Our picnic site was surrounded by acres of forest and is bordered by the Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness Areas.

Lee Vining(6781-ft) and Mono Lake afforded a comfortable campsite at Mono Vista RV Park. We drove to and hiked the unusual tufa tower formations created by minerals of the ancient, saline lake. Hauntingly beautiful!  Also, a real hotbed of ancient volcanic activity and the lake plays host to millions of migrating birds. Lee Vining is the gateway to Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows, via Tioga Pass, snowed-blocked until mid-May. Situated at the base of the Sierra Nevada, at 6781-ft elevation, we were looking for winter clothes immediately after sunset. This old mining area is now a tourist destination, offering summer and winter sports. The extensive hiking and biking trails become snow-mobile trails in winter. Small town, big views!

Bridgeport, (6463), in the middle of Bridgeport Valley and backed by the jagged spires of the Sawtooth Ridge, Bridgeport is a vast recreation playground, offering fine trout fishing on the East Walker River. The area hums with summer and winter recreation activity, a mecca for outdoor vacationers! We admired the valley and town, where time seems to stand still!

On up into Antelope Valley, Walker, Coleville, and Topaz are a trio of towns along the wild and scenic Walker River. The charming, mile-high valley offers visitors art, pastoral ranchland settings, and great trout rivers and lakes. Referring to my notes, US 395 traverses a number of high passes, from valley to valley, facilitating some anxious feelings, but providing astounding views. A beautiful California route!

Continuing north of US 395, we crossed from California into Nevada and descended into the Carson Valley, to Carson City, Nevada ( Elev 4802). The valley, Walker River, and eastern Sierra-Nevada Range around Bridgeport and Walker were an awesome sight. It was nice to retrace the treks of early explorers like Fremont, Carson, Walker, and Owens, to name a few, and see their names memorialized in features.

At Carson City, we took an RV site a t the Comstock RV Park, a perfect location for exploring the area. We drove to Lake Tahoe and the Emerald Bay State Park for some stunning views of the deep, sky-blue waters, reflecting the snow-capped mountains, and Ponderosa Pines forests. The high, narrow roads were a frightening experience, but provided priceless overlooks and views.

Back at Carson City, we cruised around town and admired the clean, historic old town, buildings, landscaping, and mountain views. We visited the State Capitol and took a tour of the grounds, building, and historic artifacts. In the Capitol Building, a striking frieze exhibited the history, 1864 Statehood, industries, and resources of the State of Nevada. The building and grounds are a fine monument to democracy!

Our next hop was up to Reno, Nevada (Elev 4505) and a four-day, campsite at Sparks Marina RV Park, a very accommodating resort and convenient location. Sister Rose made her return airline reservations and we relaxed, baked, and dined for the remainder of the day.

On Saturday, we explored Reno and the surrounding area. The city sits in a high desert at the foot of the Sierra Nevada and its downtown area occupies a valley informally known as the Truckee Meadows, along the Truckee River. The Truckee is the sole outlet of Lake Tahoe and it flows clear and cold to the “Great Basin” of central Nevada. Situated along the old California Trail, Reno offers abundant shopping, restaurants, entertainment, historic attractions, and lots of casinos. The California Trail was an emigrant trail of about 3,000 miles across the western half of the North American continent from Missouri River towns to what is now the state of California. After it was established, the first half of the California Trail followed the same corridor of networked river valley trails as the Oregon Trail and the Mormon Trail, namely the valleys of the Platte, North Platte and Sweetwater rivers to Wyoming. In the present states of Wyoming, Idaho, and Utah, the California and Oregon trails split into several different trails or cutoffs. Reno grew and developed on “Trail trade”, and the “Comstock Lode” led to a mining rush, including the Virginia City “gold rush”. Reno is a collision of contrasts, with the valley of outdoor sports, and the majestic mountains, with alpine Lake Tahoe, all providing spectacular views.  Our favorites in Reno were:

Reno Arch, Washoe County Courthouse, Pioneer Performing Arts Center, World’s tallest climbing wall, University of Nevada, Truckee River Walk, Bavarian World German Restaurant, overview drive around town.

Sunday, April 29, 2018

This morning, we drove sister Rose to the Tahoe/Reno airport, for her return flights back to Mississippi. We had a terrific visit and were regretful to say goodbye.

It’s cold and grey today at Reno (4505-ft elevation). I spent the remainder of the day doing maintenance, catching-up on notes, and planning our travels to our summer assignment at Flathead Lake, in NW Montana.