Wednesday, October 22, 2014
Spending a couple of days at Kingman, we explored around, did some chores, and cooked some delightful meals. Enjoying a Root Beer Float at a “Route 66” Diner, I decided to make a few notes about our experiences subsequent to my preceding journal entries. It is a goal to keep my journal current for my benefit of recalling things that I want to remember, however it is difficult to stay current.
We discovered an interesting historical background concerning much of the Interstate 40 segment which we have traveled. We knew that most of the I-40 western segment parallels or overlays Route 66 but Route 66 was not first. Much of old Route 66 is built on the Beale wagon road (1857) that followed the 35th parallel from Arkansas to California. Edward Fitzgerald Beale was a military General, surveyor and experienced western explorer. He was commissioned by the United States to build a wagon road to California. In his survey he was ordered to use camels as pack animals, an experiment of the US Army. The camels did quite well in the desert project however other folks, horses, and mules, didn’t get along with the camels, so the Army abandoned any further “camel projects”. Nevertheless, the road was a huge success, as the Beale road became a popular immigrant route, leading us to Las Vegas, and many travelers to California. It was also paralleled by the Transcontinental Railroad. Build it and they will come!
Leaving Holbrook, we moved on west to Winslow and enjoyed some more Route 66 memorabilia. Of course, we had to visit downtown and the Eagles tribute featuring “Standing on a Corner in Winslow Arizona”. Winslow needs all the tourism it can get so do stop by if you have the opportunity!
Our next campsite was at Flagstaff Arizona, just off Interstate 40 but a quiet little retreat. We had to find a veterinarian for Jack because his seizures had become more frequent and severe. After four hours and likewise hundreds of dollars we were told that there’s nothing they could do for him, except anti-seizure medication. Fifteen-year-old Jack has a brain tumor and the vet says that the tumor always wins. Now, we just want to make him comfortable and try to return some of the devotion that he has given us. It’s one-day-at-a-time.
I have enjoyed Chile Rellenos on several occasions but none compare to Rosie’s at cousins Richard and Helen’s home. Rosie’s are best, can’t be beat, so my search has ended. We attended our customary Sunday Mass at San Francisco de Asis, overlooking downtown Flagstaff, from the base of Mount Elden.
Continuing west, we crossed the Arizona Divide and found a pleasant campsite at Williams, overlooking the town and Interstate 40. We learned that the Arizona Divide dictates the watershed of Arizona to two outflows, for the east and west slopes. Williams is named for one of my favorite Mountain men, ”Old Bill Williams” , who was an explorer, trapper, Army Scout, and later Protestant Preacher, who spent the remainder of his life in service to the Osage and Ute Indians.
Williams was the last town on Route 66 to fight being bypassed by I-40. After years of litigation, the state finally agreed to build three I-40 exits to Williams and presently one would suffice. Oh well, Williams has lots of room to grow!
To our surprise, after setting up camp, we experienced lots smoke from a controlled burn that we learned about from the camphost. We tolerated the smoke all night and thankfully departed west, with a prompt departure. Forest controlled burns are necessary but you don’t want to be in it!
Leaving Williams (6,800’), for Kingman, there are lots of ups and downs, surprising because Kingman is at 3,333’ elevation.
We also learned that the only road descending into the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River is off old Route 66 at Peach Springs, on the Hualapai Reservation. This is downriver from the Grand Canyon National Park and upriver from the Grand Wash confluence.
Well, here we are at Kingman, at the Fort Beale RV Park, in the Hualapai Valley. We explored the “old town”, along Route 66 but the “new town”, along I-40 is where the restaurants and shopping are situated. We met several couples heading to winter quarters at Yuma.
Thursday, October 23, 2014
Thursday, October 16, 2014
See photos below. Rambling from Albuquerque to Gallup was very scenic. Departing our Albuquerque campsite on Nine-mile Hill, we followed the southern edge of the Navajo Nation to the Laguna Pueblo Mission. It was a clear day and we saw Ladron Peak (9176’) to the south and Mt. Taylor (11,301’) to the north. The old Spanish Mission serves the Pueblo people, who have a good income from uranium mining, on their reservation. The Spanish introduced wheat and the “horno”, an above-the-ground, beehive-shaped, stone oven, and the Native Americans made their first wheat-bread. Now, the wood-fired horno can be seen behind almost every Pueblo dwelling. Catch them on baking day for a sample!
Toward Grants, we encountered massive volcanic lava flows scattered all around the area. Glad the volcanoes are silent now! We picnicked at Grants, named for three railroad “Grant” brothers. I would have called it Grantville! We met a couple (snowbirds) traveling from Minnesota to their winter quarters at Lake Havasu. They had a huge 5th- wheel rig and lots of “stuff”.
It was windy at mid-day, as a northern cold-front was moving in., so you had to hold on to your hat!
Along the northern edge of the Cibola National Forest and Bluewater Lake, we crossed the Continental Divide (a gentile transition, not a high mountain pass) and headed down the western slope to Gallup (6200’) and found a very cozy camp spot at Church Rock Canyon, in Red Rock Park. Red Rock Park is situated on the Navajo Reservation and owned and managed by the Navajo people. We were mesmerized by the beauty of the setting sun on the red rock cliffs, with the golden Cottonwoods in the foreground.
Gallup, an 1881 railhead for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, was named for David Gallup, paymaster. Gallup is situated in the heart of “Native American” lands and has lots of hiking trails, art, and good food. An outstanding collection of murals tell Gallup’s dynamic story of history and heritage.
At the dining table, they; “ask red or green”? The green Chile is hotter than the red, but red or green, it’s included in every entrée. Chile is the number one crop in New Mexico and they are the number one producer, world-wide.
We met a couple from Bordeaux, France at the campground and exchanged travel information and shared our past travel experiences. I had to tell them about my travels in the wine regions of France, trying to sample the ”wines of France”, in conjunction with my summers at LSU. It was a clear, cool day with lots of interesting discoveries and tonight a low of 26 degrees is predicted.
This morning, I went out at 6:30 and the red rock cliffs, bathed in the rising sun were stunning. It was quite brisk and the cold air was invigorating. Glad Diane gave us the Keurig, because a hot cup of coffee is sometimes “priceless”! Thanks again, friend!
Later, I saw a Road Runner chasing lizards and grasshoppers, amid the Prairie Dog town that surrounds the campground. Our dogs can hear the little buggers in the burrows and want to dig them out! Unfortunately, we are in the land of “goat- head stickers” and the dogs hate those encounters, as do we.
Mid-morning, we hiked up the Pyramid Rock Trail for a panoramic view of the Red Rock Park and the I-40 corridor. The Red Rock area is the southern end of the Colorado Escarpment with the rock layers dating back 20 million years to the Dinosaurs.
On the south side of I-40 is old (1868) Fort Wingate, established to deal with Indian Affairs, later a munitions depot and test range through WWI and WWII. It also housed the Indian School, where the Navajo “code-talkers” trained. It’s abandoned now but we could see the network of old storage bunkers from our view of the valley.
It was an anomaly to be so close to Interstate 40 and yet be so far away that it was silent, as the cars and trucks sped to distant destinations, oblivious to the awesome panoramic views from the cliffs.
Daisy got her chance to dig-out a Prairie Dog and after she was exhausted I had to pull her away. She failed to learn the age-old fact that Prairie Dogs don’t get dug out!
This morning we explored Gallup along Route 66 to see the murals, “tourist stuff”, and lunch. Next, we headed to Painted Desert National Park for a tour of the Painted Desert Inn and a drive along the overlook road. Afternoon clouds gave the Painted Desert a different look.
In a conversation with the Ranger (Volunteer Coordinator) at Painted Desert Inn, we were offered a “host job” and exchanged contact info. Maybe a possibility, we’ll see! Leaving the Park, we traveled over to Holbrook and found a nice campsite at OK RV Park. The RV Park has a large collection of petrified wood, several specimens being entire trees. It’s difficult to imagine that this high desert was once located close to the equator, with 200-foot trees and tropical marches. It’s also a treasure-trove of fossils, some being new species of Dinosaur creatures. Boy would that have made an awesome cable network, outdoor/hunting show!
Today was a hang-out in Holbrook day, doing laundry, and catching-up on “stuff”.
Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquergue NM:
Toward Grants, we encountered massive volcanic lava flows scattered all around the area. Glad the volcanoes are silent now! We picnicked at Grants, named for three railroad “Grant” brothers. I would have called it Grantville! We met a couple (snowbirds) traveling from Minnesota to their winter quarters at Lake Havasu. They had a huge 5th- wheel rig and lots of “stuff”.
It was windy at mid-day, as a northern cold-front was moving in., so you had to hold on to your hat!
Along the northern edge of the Cibola National Forest and Bluewater Lake, we crossed the Continental Divide (a gentile transition, not a high mountain pass) and headed down the western slope to Gallup (6200’) and found a very cozy camp spot at Church Rock Canyon, in Red Rock Park. Red Rock Park is situated on the Navajo Reservation and owned and managed by the Navajo people. We were mesmerized by the beauty of the setting sun on the red rock cliffs, with the golden Cottonwoods in the foreground.
Gallup, an 1881 railhead for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, was named for David Gallup, paymaster. Gallup is situated in the heart of “Native American” lands and has lots of hiking trails, art, and good food. An outstanding collection of murals tell Gallup’s dynamic story of history and heritage.
At the dining table, they; “ask red or green”? The green Chile is hotter than the red, but red or green, it’s included in every entrée. Chile is the number one crop in New Mexico and they are the number one producer, world-wide.
We met a couple from Bordeaux, France at the campground and exchanged travel information and shared our past travel experiences. I had to tell them about my travels in the wine regions of France, trying to sample the ”wines of France”, in conjunction with my summers at LSU. It was a clear, cool day with lots of interesting discoveries and tonight a low of 26 degrees is predicted.
This morning, I went out at 6:30 and the red rock cliffs, bathed in the rising sun were stunning. It was quite brisk and the cold air was invigorating. Glad Diane gave us the Keurig, because a hot cup of coffee is sometimes “priceless”! Thanks again, friend!
Later, I saw a Road Runner chasing lizards and grasshoppers, amid the Prairie Dog town that surrounds the campground. Our dogs can hear the little buggers in the burrows and want to dig them out! Unfortunately, we are in the land of “goat- head stickers” and the dogs hate those encounters, as do we.
Mid-morning, we hiked up the Pyramid Rock Trail for a panoramic view of the Red Rock Park and the I-40 corridor. The Red Rock area is the southern end of the Colorado Escarpment with the rock layers dating back 20 million years to the Dinosaurs.
On the south side of I-40 is old (1868) Fort Wingate, established to deal with Indian Affairs, later a munitions depot and test range through WWI and WWII. It also housed the Indian School, where the Navajo “code-talkers” trained. It’s abandoned now but we could see the network of old storage bunkers from our view of the valley.
It was an anomaly to be so close to Interstate 40 and yet be so far away that it was silent, as the cars and trucks sped to distant destinations, oblivious to the awesome panoramic views from the cliffs.
Daisy got her chance to dig-out a Prairie Dog and after she was exhausted I had to pull her away. She failed to learn the age-old fact that Prairie Dogs don’t get dug out!
This morning we explored Gallup along Route 66 to see the murals, “tourist stuff”, and lunch. Next, we headed to Painted Desert National Park for a tour of the Painted Desert Inn and a drive along the overlook road. Afternoon clouds gave the Painted Desert a different look.
In a conversation with the Ranger (Volunteer Coordinator) at Painted Desert Inn, we were offered a “host job” and exchanged contact info. Maybe a possibility, we’ll see! Leaving the Park, we traveled over to Holbrook and found a nice campsite at OK RV Park. The RV Park has a large collection of petrified wood, several specimens being entire trees. It’s difficult to imagine that this high desert was once located close to the equator, with 200-foot trees and tropical marches. It’s also a treasure-trove of fossils, some being new species of Dinosaur creatures. Boy would that have made an awesome cable network, outdoor/hunting show!
Today was a hang-out in Holbrook day, doing laundry, and catching-up on “stuff”.
Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquergue NM:
 |
| Red Rock Park, Gallup NM: |
Sunday, October 12, 2014
On the way to our winter in Las Vegas
Bob and Terry
September-October Update
September-October Update
My
computer died and I’m now using Terry’s Lenovo-Windows 8, so I am in a learning
curve. Fortunately Terry recovered all my files for me. I got behind on my
notes and I must “write it to remember it”, so it’s catch-up time!
Tulsa was loads of fun for us,
while visiting Jean and family. We toured around the sights, walked in the
park, dined at some yummy restaurants and visited in the family homes. Tulsa
has a large collection of Art Deco architecture from the “big oil money” days
and we enjoyed witnessing and learning about it. A volunteer docent at the
Boston Avenue Methodist Church, a showcase example, gave us an extraordinary guided
tour. The days were cool and clear, just perfect for our visit.
Tomorrow is Monday, October
6, and we head to our winter work at Clark County Shooting Complex, in Las
Vegas.
We had a Picnic Lunch at Oklahoma
City but it was too hot to explore so we headed to higher elevations. We
crossed the old Chisholm Trail- old cattle-drive route from south Texas to
Kansas railhead. We camped at 1875 Fort Reno, established on the
Cheyenne-Arapaho reservation, where the Cheyenne-Arapaho Tribes are still
trying to re-acquire their land. We met a couple from the Oklahoma Panhandle, who
were heading for winter quarters in the Rio Grande valley of south Texas, and
they shared a lot of information about it. Apparently it is very economical to
winter there.
We camped at Amarillo for two
nights and enjoyed the surroundings. I talked to a line crew preparing to leave
the campground and head for a new project. They had worked for several months
around Amarillo, building transmission lines for the huge wind farms developing
around the area. The Charles Goodnight Ranch was just north, the old home of
the real “Lonesome Dove” cowboys. Amarillo (yellow in Spanish) has lots of
yellow wildflowers blooming, so it lives up to its name.
Moving on, we crossed the remainder
of the Texas Panhandle and entered the high plains of New Mexico. We observed a
(cheeseburger-size) tarantula crossing the road and wondered if he was in the
process of migrating, hibernating, feeding or mating. Given the circumstances,
we assumed it was most likely the second choice. Both of us were excited to be
back in the western states, with open spaces and mountain views.
We camped at Tucumcari, right
on old Route 66, and were surprised that much of the old structures still
exist. Old motor courts or tourist courts with the car-park garage are still
standing, along with the diners. Television was unique because sister stations
in the Central and Mountain Time Zones can be watched, with the same shows
one-hour apart.
We discovered the “Blue
Spring” on the Pecos River, at Santa Rosa, a scuba divers mecca. Who would have
guessed! Wind and rain from a storm in the Pacific accompanied us most of the
day.
Our next camp was at
Albuquerque, on the west side of the Rio Grande valley. Albuquerque straddles
the Rio Grande and the valley is a beautiful garden, in the high desert. We
have a panoramic view of the entire valley and the Sandia Mountains to the
east, from our RV Park. We toured Petroglyph National Monument and hiked the
three-mile trail into Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Here, the petroglyphs are 4-7
hundred years old and some are 2-3 thousand years of age. Also, 1600’s-1800’s
explorers left their names and dates in the volcanic basalt boulders.
Additionally, we saw a “Mickey Mouse” image that was much more recent but quite
well done.
We toured around the old
town, along the Rio Grande, and Route 66, followed by dinner at a local Albuquerque,
New Mexico establishment. I had the “real” Chile Relleno! The Albuquerque
International Balloon Fiesta is going on this weekend, so the area is super
busy. With mass ascensions, balloon glows, races, and special ceremonies, the
balloon park draws huge crowds. I-40 and I-25 were backed-up for miles at
daylight because the parking lots filled and visitors were turned away.
Our dogs have a lot of
frustration with time zone changes, heading west, because their little
“internal clocks” say it’s time for dinner an hour early. They just bark and
complain like it’s our fault! Unfortunately, we enter Pacific Time tomorrow and
they’ll have another adjustment!
Thursday, October 2, 2014
We enjoyed our stay at Cahokia, located just across the river from St. Louis. Cahokia is the site of an ancient Mississippian Culture, Native American settlement which consisted of six square miles, with 120 mounds. It had a large population, not surpassed by any US city until the late 18th century. The site was occupied by the Cahokia Tribe when the first French Explorers came to visit in the 17th century. That was a lot of Indians! Presently, the city of Cahokia and East St. Louis are struggling with a sagging economy because much of the industry and tax base have departed.
Traveling US 50 (this section of US 50 is old the Cahokia Trail) from Cahokia to Madison, we traversed vast southern Illinois farmland, with the harvest underway. The weather was cool and clear with a definite feel of Fall in the air. Carlyle Lake, a Corps of Engineers flood control project on the Kaskaskia River, and the largest man-made lake in Illinois, was busy with Fall boating, sailing, and fishing activities.
Halfway Tavern is an old 1800 way stop, situated halfway between St. Louis and Vincennes, a frequent stop for circuit rider, Abraham Lincoln as he from “rode the circuit” from courthouse-to-courthouse, trying cases.
We made camp at Red Hills State Park near the Wabash River, a park with lots of big trees, lake, and wildflowers. The Red Hills are the highest point between St. Louis and Cincinnati and were a prominent landmark in the Indian Treaty of 1795 which ceded the Vincennes Tract to the U.S. Government.
We made a fine steak dinner and walked around the park lake area. Leaving Illinois, we entered Indiana and stopped for lunch at Vincennes, then said goodbye to Glenn and Kim as they headed to Seymour and we turned SE toward Madison.
Vincennes has a rich history of Native Americans, Canadian, French, British, and American occupation.
We crossed the Hoosier National Forest, situated over dolomite, limestone, and gypsum that instigate the numerous caves and caverns of southern Indiana. My new word here is “Karst“.
At Madison, we took a site at the Madison city campground, with a splendid view of the Ohio river and the new Madison-Milton bridge. We have enjoyed our visit this week and are planning a Birthday Party for Amy on Saturday. On Friday, we will move up to the Jefferson County Fairground where we will have a weekend campout with the family and hold Amy’s birthday cookout-party. We plan to head to Oklahoma on Monday.
Monday, September 29, 2014
With hugs and goodbyes, we departed Madison and headed west to Tulsa. We seriously considered driving old US 60 but after further investigation, we decided it would be too slow for our purposes. We could not get a reliable DOT Route 60 road report from Kentucky-Illinois,-Missouri-Oklahoma, so we opted to travel I-64 and I-44 to Tulsa.
We followed the Ohio River through the Hoosier National Forest, enjoying the scenery in this huge wilderness area. We had a picnic Lunch at the 1852 Warrenton United Church of Christ, under some majestic shade trees and verdant grass, beside the old cemetery.
We crossed the old Wabash and Erie Canal that linked the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico via the Ohio River.
We made camp at Cahokia, on the Illinois bank of the mighty Mississippi, immediately across the river from St. Louis.
On Tuesday, we crossed the Mississippi River and continued west on I-44.
Mt. Vernon, named after George Washington estate, is a busy destination with lots of tourist attractions.
Cuba is the “Route 66 Mural City” with 12 outdoor murals along the corridor.
Meramec Spring is located at St. James and the old Civil War era Meramec Iron Works were also situated here.
Passing through the Ozarks, we observed approximately 150 promotional billboards for Meramec Caverns. It has a long history but unlikely that Jesse James hid-out here in the 1870’s. Regardless, they advertise this and they have lots of Jesse James stuff. It’s a huge tourist attraction!
Rolla, the center of the Ozark Highlands, is the home of Missouri University of Science and Technology and the Alma Mater of a friend that I worked with in Seattle. It’s also a considerable viticulture area, with abundant Concord Grape vineyards.
Fort Leonard Wood is situated in the Missouri Ozarks and the training center for several of my former Army comrades.
We had a picnic lunch at the Salvation Army Camp Mahaska, in the Ozark Mountains, near Bourbon, Missouri. This is a youth camp with a beautiful campus and cascading, spring-fed pools. We had a pleasant lunch but were soon requested to leave the private property. I find this stimulating but Terry is embarrassed by my audacity. Some find it easier to apologize than ask permission.
We camped on Route 66 at Strafford where the “Trail of Tears” began into Green County. It was a warm, sunny day and we appreciated the AC. The temperature and humidity increased as we neared Tulsa but a cold front is promising more comfortable weather. We’ll spend the remainder of the week visiting Terry’s mom and family in Tulsa and head to Las Vegas on Monday.
Traveling US 50 (this section of US 50 is old the Cahokia Trail) from Cahokia to Madison, we traversed vast southern Illinois farmland, with the harvest underway. The weather was cool and clear with a definite feel of Fall in the air. Carlyle Lake, a Corps of Engineers flood control project on the Kaskaskia River, and the largest man-made lake in Illinois, was busy with Fall boating, sailing, and fishing activities.
Halfway Tavern is an old 1800 way stop, situated halfway between St. Louis and Vincennes, a frequent stop for circuit rider, Abraham Lincoln as he from “rode the circuit” from courthouse-to-courthouse, trying cases.
We made camp at Red Hills State Park near the Wabash River, a park with lots of big trees, lake, and wildflowers. The Red Hills are the highest point between St. Louis and Cincinnati and were a prominent landmark in the Indian Treaty of 1795 which ceded the Vincennes Tract to the U.S. Government.
We made a fine steak dinner and walked around the park lake area. Leaving Illinois, we entered Indiana and stopped for lunch at Vincennes, then said goodbye to Glenn and Kim as they headed to Seymour and we turned SE toward Madison.
Vincennes has a rich history of Native Americans, Canadian, French, British, and American occupation.
We crossed the Hoosier National Forest, situated over dolomite, limestone, and gypsum that instigate the numerous caves and caverns of southern Indiana. My new word here is “Karst“.
At Madison, we took a site at the Madison city campground, with a splendid view of the Ohio river and the new Madison-Milton bridge. We have enjoyed our visit this week and are planning a Birthday Party for Amy on Saturday. On Friday, we will move up to the Jefferson County Fairground where we will have a weekend campout with the family and hold Amy’s birthday cookout-party. We plan to head to Oklahoma on Monday.
Monday, September 29, 2014
With hugs and goodbyes, we departed Madison and headed west to Tulsa. We seriously considered driving old US 60 but after further investigation, we decided it would be too slow for our purposes. We could not get a reliable DOT Route 60 road report from Kentucky-Illinois,-Missouri-Oklahoma, so we opted to travel I-64 and I-44 to Tulsa.
We followed the Ohio River through the Hoosier National Forest, enjoying the scenery in this huge wilderness area. We had a picnic Lunch at the 1852 Warrenton United Church of Christ, under some majestic shade trees and verdant grass, beside the old cemetery.
We crossed the old Wabash and Erie Canal that linked the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico via the Ohio River.
We made camp at Cahokia, on the Illinois bank of the mighty Mississippi, immediately across the river from St. Louis.
On Tuesday, we crossed the Mississippi River and continued west on I-44.
Mt. Vernon, named after George Washington estate, is a busy destination with lots of tourist attractions.
Cuba is the “Route 66 Mural City” with 12 outdoor murals along the corridor.
Meramec Spring is located at St. James and the old Civil War era Meramec Iron Works were also situated here.
Passing through the Ozarks, we observed approximately 150 promotional billboards for Meramec Caverns. It has a long history but unlikely that Jesse James hid-out here in the 1870’s. Regardless, they advertise this and they have lots of Jesse James stuff. It’s a huge tourist attraction!
Rolla, the center of the Ozark Highlands, is the home of Missouri University of Science and Technology and the Alma Mater of a friend that I worked with in Seattle. It’s also a considerable viticulture area, with abundant Concord Grape vineyards.
Fort Leonard Wood is situated in the Missouri Ozarks and the training center for several of my former Army comrades.
We had a picnic lunch at the Salvation Army Camp Mahaska, in the Ozark Mountains, near Bourbon, Missouri. This is a youth camp with a beautiful campus and cascading, spring-fed pools. We had a pleasant lunch but were soon requested to leave the private property. I find this stimulating but Terry is embarrassed by my audacity. Some find it easier to apologize than ask permission.
We camped on Route 66 at Strafford where the “Trail of Tears” began into Green County. It was a warm, sunny day and we appreciated the AC. The temperature and humidity increased as we neared Tulsa but a cold front is promising more comfortable weather. We’ll spend the remainder of the week visiting Terry’s mom and family in Tulsa and head to Las Vegas on Monday.
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