News from Savanna, Illinois

Seek long enough and you will find it! After looking at several coastal-cruiser boats, we finally settled on a 30-foot Gibson. Outside, it has an open deck on the bow and stern, walk-around catwalks with railing, and an upper deck mid-ships.
Inside, a combination salon/helm, galley, head with shower, storage locker, and queen berth. It’s white with blue trim, and blue netting on the railings.
The tender boat is a 16-foot Bass Tracker, runabout with a 50HP motor. It will be in-tow, ready to ferry us over to shore as needed. The tender boat is much faster and more maneuverable than the Gibson live-aboard vessel, and will be the workhorse, when at anchor. We have moved aboard the boat, located on the Mississippi River, at Savanna, Illinois. The River being high, we are setting about doing the paperwork, planning, and organizing, for our cruise to Kentucky Lake and then Mobile Bay.

Not to our surprise, we have to downsize our stuff, moving from the RV Travel Trailer to the boat. We’re selling the Travel Trailer, now that we have moved aboard, following with the truck, when we are ready to sail.
The local marina patrons are predicting the river to fall to a desirable level in about three weeks, if the upstream rain holds off. All commercial traffic is currently halted, due to the high water, so it will be necessary to avoid the initial onslaught of commercial traffic, when the river reopens. In the meantime, for fun and experience, we can explore the slack water in the tender boat.
Happy 4th of July!

Spending several days at Michigan City, Indiana, we have explored around Indiana’s Lake Michigan shores. The water is cold and crystal clear,  however, like the other Great Lakes, it has to be constantly monitored for bacteria levels. Currently, the beach signs indicate a “good” water quality, so we waded in the light surf.
The Indiana Sand Dunes National Seashore is a unique park with sandy beaches, backed by rows of high sand dunes, marshes, Oak Savannas, prairies, and streams. It’s home to abundant flora and fauna species, including many, indigenous to this park. The rows of high sand dunes mark successive levels of Lake Michigan as the ice-age glacial retreat progressed over time. It’s just another great National treasure that has been preserved and protected, as a unique place.

This afternoon, we experienced a violent thunderstorm, with wind gusts and torrential rain that rocked our travel trailer. Our dogs were terrified and we were uneasy too! Fortunately, it passed quickly and left no damage. Under a nearby Mulberry grove, the ground was covered with ripe Mulberries, knocked off by the storm.
Also, following the storm, a little tree frog is intermittently chirping in our travel trailer, and we can’t seen to locate the culprit. Hopefully, we will remove it before bedtime!
We have found several coastal-cruiser boats and are investigating their qualifications.

We had a picnic lunch at Erie, PA. then shopped to replenish our larder. The sun and heat became overbearing in mid-afternoon, so we sought out a shady spot of reprieve near Madison.
We were impressed with the abundance of large vineyards along the south shore of Lake Erie, in New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. A Lake Erie Wine Alliance works to promote their products through tours, tastings, and marketing. They are second, behind California in total vineyard acreage, however the primary variety is the concord grape, which is dominated by the Welch Food Company. The area between Lake Erie and the Adirondacks, in New York primarily produces fine wines from American-French, and European varieties. Not to be overlooked, Pennsylvania and Ohio produce some fine wines too, but it’s only about 5% of their total production. We like the Welch Concord grape products but they have too much added sugar.


We encountered a severe thunderstorm at Cleveland and had to seek refuge in a Church parking lot. The Cleveland Indians were hosting the SF Giants nearby, but the storm halted the game. It resumed after we left town and we ended our day at Cedar Point, in Sandusky, on Lake Erie.

We slowly skirted the southern shore of Lake Ontario, through the numerous small villages and towns of northwestern New York. This area first developed along the lake and later into the interior, especially when New York 104 was completed. The NY 104 “ridge route” brought in settlers who began farming the rich plain, south of Lake Ontario. It’s remains very productive, with large dairy farms, fruit orchards, and other truck crops. Many of the early settlers built federal style houses from the abundant cobble stone and many homes continue in use today, with their orderly gardens and multihued landscaping.

At Lockport, we explored the Erie Canal and then over to Niagara Falls. Lockport literally grew up around the five-step lock system, the most challenging part of the 363-mile Erie Canal. This lock system facilitates the ascent/decent of the 70-foot dolomitic limestone shelf of the Niagara escarpment.
I observed the perfect live-aboard boat, traversing the locks on this section of the “Great Loop”. Terry corrected me, pointing out several deficiencies that were would be daily hindrances while cruising. I’ve been told and I’m learning that there is no perfect live-aboard vessel.
The dolomite stone that was removed in the construction of the Lockport locks and commonly reused as cheap, abundant building material, is visible in the old buildings and structures around the area.

At Niagara Falls, it was a sunny, cloudy, rainy, cool, warm, windy, (you name it)day, which produced a range of impressive views and experiences at the falls. The unusually high spring run-off added even more commotion as the azure green water from Lake Erie, roared through the canyon, plunging into the gorge, on it’s course to Lake Ontario.  We visited from mid-morning until after sunset, walking all the trails around Horseshoe, American, and Bridal Veil falls while taking pictures. Our dogs were so excited and curious suggesting something instinctively special about the place. (Or it could have been a result of all the fast food aromas)!  We parked our rig on Goat Island, surrounded by the falls, so we had  convenient access and a practical place to rest, eat and shelter(and change wet clothes and dry wet dogs).  We walker across the footbridge to the Hard Rock Café for dinner and a visit to the Visitor Center.

Next, we continued our itinerary along the Niagara River meeting the southern shore of Lake Erie, at Buffalo. For some reason, I thought about OJ Simpson as we observed the derelict, rusting,  industrial facilities along the lakeshore of south Buffalo. All this industry was thriving when OJ played here. We looked for the Buffalo Bills Stadium but could not get a view of it. Buffalo is making a fervent effort to revitalize the lake shore.
Infrequently driving at night, it was dark when we found a city park campground/beach, along NY 5, on Lake Erie, at Sheridan. It’s a very pleasant, scenic park, and after some concentrated touring days, we’re staying two nights.
Every day, we talk, observe, shop, and evaluate our boat needs. After nearly four months, traveling along the “Great Loop” route, we can say that we’ve learned a lot and it has been time enjoyed and well spent. It WILL happen!

We have been rambling through some very gorgeous country, for several days. We departed north Maine, said goodbye to Mt. Katahdin, and came south to Bangor and US 2, then headed west on the old US 2 route. Traveling across Maine, we passed through some great Moose country but were not fortunate to see one. We did see a car that crashed into a Moose last night and the car AND Moose lost. Western Maine, with it’s ski-resort mountains, numerous lakes, forests, and endless outdoor activities, is a sharp contrast to Maine’s jagged, rocky Atlantic coast. “Overdosing on stunning scenery”!
We found a campsite just east of the New Hampshire line and south of the Appalachian Trail.

Crossing into New Hampshire, we followed the route through the White Mountains and valleys, crossing the White Mountain National Forest, past Mount Washington (New Hampshire’s highest) and numerous white-water rivers and streams. We can easily see why New Hampshire is the “Granite State” because outcroppings of granite are abundant.

Navigating Vermont, traversing the Green Mountains, we had some great views of old farms, forests, and towns, and many of the rivers and streams supported old mills that once activated water-powered manufacturing machinery. It’s spring in the Green Mountains and they are definitely “emerald green“. At West Danville, we took Vermont 15 through some awesome country and found a campsite at Morrisville, on the Lamoille River, just north of Mt. Mansfield (highest point in Vermont).
We crossed Lake Champlain, just south of the Canadian border and entered New York at Rouses Point. In New York, we followed US 11 between the St. Lawrence Seaway on the north and the Adirondack Mountains in the south. We enjoyed the great views, small towns, and numerous farms along the US 11 route. At Watertown, we traveled west to Lake Ontario and a campsite at Sackets Harbor. Sackets Harbor is a scenic, historical area, home to an early 1800’s Navy port and ship building yard. Zebulon Pike, after his expedition in the Pikes Peak area of the old Louisiana Purchase, was killed in action in the 1812 Battle of York” and is buried at Sackets Harbor.

Some photos from our trip in to New Brunswick.  Above, the first photo is of a moose in harness!  We saw this posted on the wall of a farm shop where we stopped to buy potatoes (they are a big crop here).  Look closely, its a big moose!  Then we stopped at the Potato Museum, the flowers are Bob, Margie and Wayne.  Then we went to see a replica of Noah's Ark.  It is a school now with classrooms and lecture rooms inside.  Then a landscape photo of New Brunswick.  The barns, silos and farm houses are so beautiful.

Today, we left Bar Harbor and headed up to Bangor, where we followed the east bank of the Penobscot River (longest river in Maine) to it’s headwaters, in Aroostook county. Aroostook county (larger than Connecticut and Rhode Island combined) is the largest US county east of the Mississippi and the northernmost county of Maine, with lots of forests and water. The Acadian culture, native American Maliseet Band of the Algonquian, potatoes,  7000 miles of flowing water, and wind power, are all important elements of the county.
We could clearly see Mount Katahdin, highest mountain in Maine, and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. (We worked Amicalola Falls State Park in northeast Georgia, last Fall, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, so we were glad to see this end too)!

Pictures along the way..

Bar Harbor must be a subdivision of heaven! It’s so beautiful, quiet, relaxing, and picturesque, invoking all the peace and serenity of a special spiritual place. Today, we started in Bar Harbor, then Acadia National Park, followed by an early dinner.
At Bar Harbor, the low tide ebbed at 10 am, exposing the narrow sand bar on the north side of the harbor, that connects the two islands, and gives Bar Harbor it’s name. You can walk across the exposed bar to the other island but you better get back to Bar Harbor before the tide starts to flow or you‘ll find yourself awash in the foamy brine. (Or you can wait until the next low tide)
At Acadia National Park, we spent several hours on Cadillac Mountain, providing a panoramic view of the ocean, islands, bays, and glacial ponds below. From the mountain, one can view the first light of day as it illuminates the USA. (If you go at sunrise!) Next, we went to the Wild Gardens of Acadia on the north side of the park. This is an excellent display of Acadia’s native plants and trees.
Finally, we went to Down East Lobster Pound, for an early dinner. Well, I’m done with lobster! The waterman was a young lady, so I guess it was a waterwoman or waterperson. Anyway, after explaining that I wanted something special, she took me to a pound that held around 40, 4-5 pound lobsters. I chose one that was almost five pounds and had claws as large as my hands. The lobster seemed angry at me but he was no problem to catch. She said that it was about 20 years old and I felt a little remorseful about choosing it, but after 17 minutes, it was on my table. Terry and our friends had stone crabs and they watched as I methodically savored the sweet, savory crustacean. (I did share a little) It was too large for the traditional lobstah crakah tool, so they brought out the reserve mallet (the mallet was a block of wood, funny-tls). It was a delicious dinner and a special treat but that’s the end of lobster for me, because I’ve now had the best!
Tomorrow the beautiful weather turns to cold and rain, so it’s WalMart and laundry mat time!
Bob
Photos below:  Having lunch at a Bar Harbor restaurant with our new friends, Wayne and Margie.  They are from Texas.  We met them at Bull Run campground outside of Washington DC and have traveling together off and on since then.  Then there is a photo of us at the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia NP.  Next is one of eating lobster and stone crabs at a local Lobster Pound.  It was an experience I always pictured in my mind of eating lobster in Maine.  Also, 30 years ago on our honeymoon we ate stone crab in Miami.  Finally, beautiful yellow Lady slipper orchids in the Wild Gardens of Acadia in the national park.