Terrry

These are not my photos but yesterday I came upon a Smooth Green Snake on the path where we walk. It was such a wonderful green. Very small and thin.
Last night we stared at the Milky Way with mountains on the horizon. I don't want to leave here.

Ending Summer 2019 at Ridgway State Park

Delta County Fair 8-3/8-11 Cowboy Poetry

Wednesday, July 24, 2019

I just finished reading Dolnick’s, “Down the Great Unknown”, the journey of John Wesley Powell and crew’s 1869 expedition down the Green and Colorado rivers. The book details a great adventure and stunning revelations.

Having experienced multi-day excursions of the deep canyons on the Green River and Colorado River, I can relate to many of the experiences that he and his team encountered in the abyss. The most impressive part of this book was Powell’s ability to “think and see” in geologic time. To scan a towering canyon wall was to look back a hundred million years. Powell saw that the earth’s surface changes like the face of the sea, but too slowly for humans to recognize it. Mountains are dissolved and washed to the sea and from the sea, new mountains are pushed up, all in the story of the world. This was a fascinating and exciting read!

Monday, August 12, 2019

Once again, I have let myself get behind on my journal notes. We recently made a three-night, circuitous trip around the high-country of SW Colorado and experienced some nostalgic and novel sights. Our first night was Basalt, followed by a night in Salida, and finally a night in Gunnison. Along the route, we crossed McClure Pass, Independence Pass, Monarch Pass, and Cerro Summit. On this trip, we visited some familiar and some new places.

Traveling up the North Fork of the Gunnison River, was a familiar route but having recently read a book on the 1776 Dominguez-Escalante Expedition, ironically this was part of their route and I recognized some landmarks that they described in their journals.

In 1776, two Franciscan friars, Dominguez and Escalante, were sent to search for an overland route from Santa Fe New Mexico to the recently established settlement at Monterey California. They made it as far as Southern Utah before being overtaken by winter and deciding to return to Santa Fe. They were one of the first, if not the first, white men to visit this area. Their journals of valleys with agricultural potential, precious metals, wildlife, and abundant timber inspired subsequent adventurers to begin population of the areas.

Following up the North Fork of the Gunnison River, we crossed over McClure Pass to the Crystal River Valley. The McClure Pass (8755’) is located along the boundary between Pitkin and Gunnison counties, in a gap at the western side of the Elk Mountains, south of Redstone. It separates the headwaters of the Crystal River (a tributary of the Roaring Fork River to the north) with the headwaters of the North Fork Gunnison River (south). The pass is traversed by State Highway 133 between Carbondale and Paeonia, providing the direct route between the Roaring Fork Valley and the North Fork Valley. The pass is not especially high and is generally open year-round, closed only during heavy snowstorms. The approaches are fairly steep on each side, with an 8% grade. The approach is smooth on the south side, as the road overlooks Muddy Creek above Paeonia State Park. The approach on the north side has one large switchback overlooking the valley containing the town of Marble, Colorado.

In western Colorado, on the western slope, one can almost guess altitudes by the trees. Starting up the slope, Sage, Rabbit Brush, and Juniper give way to Scrub Oak, Cottonwood, Pinion and Ponderosa Pine, then, Aspen, followed by low alpine vegetation on the highest elevations.

The Crystal River, a roaring, high-mountain, whitewater river, is one of the most scenic nature areas around Aspen. The Crystal River is a tributary of the Roaring Fork River, approximately 40 mi long, in western Colorado. It drains a glacial valley, called the Coal Basin, south of Carbondale which was historically known as a center of coal mining in southwestern Colorado. It rises in northern Gunnison County in the Elk Mountains on the north side of Schofield Pass, passing through the ghost town of Crystal City, still inhabited by a few summer residents. It then flows north past Marble, then into Pitkin County past Redstone. It joins the Roaring Fork below Carbondale. State Highway 133 follows the awesome river canyon along much of its route north of Marble.

At Marble, we revisited the outdoor museum of the Marble quarries. We saw that the outdoor Marble Museum is still the same, with all sorts of marble exhibits scattered around the Ponderosa Pine, wooded-area, along Crystal River.

For a new experience, we took the six-mile, OMG road up to the quarries for a thrilling, exhilarating, and scenic ride. Driving up to the still-operating quarries on an OMG road was plum scary. The road is mainly cut into a sheer rock face, making a narrow ledge to drive on. It’s hard to believe that 18-wheeler rigs (wide as the road) haul the monolithic marble slabs down that steep, narrow road. They have escorts that lead the way, so if you meet one, you have to back down to a turnout, to let them pass. Thank God we did not have to do that. (NO guardrails)! You look to the valley anywhere along that road and it’s literally straight down.

Back at Marble, they have a large staging area where the huge white marble slabs and blocks are prepared for shipping. This beautifully unique marble can be found in famous Washington monuments and all sorts of other public buildings.

We drove around the historic little town of Marble and admired some neat old architecture. Another addition since we were last there, were some marble sculptures around the little town, products of the new Marble/marble sculpting symposium held each summer. Our last new find was the Slow Groovin’ BBQ restaurant, serving some really fine, epic, award-winning barbecue. Their web; “Slow Groovin' BBQ began in the town of Marble, Colorado surrounded by the beautiful Elk mountains.  Marble gets its name from the Marble Quarry, just up the (beware, that ain’t your normal) road from the heart of town. The Lincoln Memorial, The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Capitol Building in Denver and many other important buildings were all built with Marble from this area.  At the end of the road and off the beaten track, Marble is a place where cell phones do not work and nature's beauty is unrivaled.  Today you can find us up in Marble during the summer season and in Snowmass Village year-round. If you get the chance, go to Marble and experience a wild place with great BBQ!”

At Redstone, in the Crystal River Valley, we toured the old coal-mining town, now a quaint, rustic hideaway for some the Aspen crowd. Down the river, Redstone was established in the late 19th century by industrialist John Cleveland Osgood as part of a coal mining enterprise. Osgood's coal empire also spurred construction of the Crystal River Railroad and Redstone's historic dwellings. As an experiment in "enlightened industrial paternalism," Osgood constructed 84 cottages and a 40-room inn, all with indoor plumbing and electricity, for his coal miners and cokers, as well as modern bathhouse facilities, a club house with a library and a theatre, and a school. Most of these Craftsman-era Swiss-style cottages are still used as homes. We enjoyed the riverside village and the historic cottages have been restored into beautiful summer homes. They had a museum on the coal-mining era and the original “General Store” serving some really good ice cream too!

The beehive-shaped coke ovens are still on display, illustrating how quality coke was produced from the coal. The unqualified term "coke" usually refers to the product derived from low-ash and low-sulfur bituminous coal by a process called coking. It must have been a smoky, dirty operation, unhealthy for the workers.

A dominant feature of Redstone is Cleveholm Manor, commonly called "Redstone Castle," an opulent 42-room Tudor-style mansion that Osgood built for his second wife, Swedish Countess Alma Regina Shelgrem. Construction of Cleveholm Manor, which was designed by New York architects Boal and Harnois, began in 1897 and was completed in 1901. The Castle was part of a 72-acre estate that also included servants' quarters, a gamekeeper's lodge, a carriage house, and a greenhouse. Cleveholm Manor and the gamekeeper's cottage are both independently listed on the National Register. The mansion has been renovated and restored to its 1880’s status and is open to tours. The mansion is privately owned but available for tours. We drove up there for an overview but discovered that you must buy advance tickets on-line.

Back at the village, the 40-room Inn, in a beautiful setting, is open to the public for lodging, offering luxury accommodations, dining, and guide services.  

From Crystal City to Marble, the Crystal River flows through the Crystal River Canyon, a narrow valley with numerous snow slide runs, rockfalls, and other hazardous terrain. Although it is locally known as a fishing and hiking attraction the unpaved and largely un-maintained mining road, designated Gunnison County Road 3, is nearly impassable to vehicles other than ATVs and off-road motorcycles. A four-wheel-drive jeep tour is operated out of Marble, but only operates during the summer when the road is not blocked by snow, mud, or rock slides.

At Basalt, beside the Frying Pan River, we discovered an old mining town that has been transformed into a cozy suburb of Aspen. The original buildings have been restored into shops, restaurants, and outdoor outfitters, with a sprinkling of new hotels, and public parks and facilities. Our Aspenalt Lodge accommodations were pet-friendly, situated right on the Riverwalk, adjacent to the public area and very comfortable. We had a nice dinner beside the Frying Pan River. Daisy loved the room, the Riverwalk, and the evening town-stroll.

Aspen was beautiful, with the Maroon Bells in the distance and the exclusive shops, hotels, restaurants, and attractions spread around the mountain town. You have to overlook the “fluff” and crowds to appreciate the natural beauty of the area. In the summer months, the gondolas and lifts take you high into the mountains for hiking and outdoor adventures. We shopped City Market for some supplies and found that Aspen was like a Manhattan street, by noon. Aspen attracts people from around the globe, providing mountain and outdoor attractions in abundance. In town, some can afford the spas, oxygen bars, entertainment, exclusive shops and dining, specialized marijuana dispensaries, CBD treatments, and implausible personal services. It’s all about the money!

From Aspen, we very quickly entered the wilderness of Independence Pass (12,095’). This is another OMG road that follows river up, to Continental Divide, and river down, through a virtual transition from valley to alpine tundra. The Independence Pass route negotiates deep, narrow canyons, and traverses steep, high shelves that really stimulate your fear-factor. Above 10-thousand feet the wildflowers were just coming into their prime and it was a beautiful morning sight. Independence Pass is a lot like the “Going to the Sun” road, except longer, with more high, OMG ledges and precipices. Along the canyon walls huge house-size boulders are looming over the road with a very menacing look of impending disaster.

In the Arkansas River valley, we cruised south to Buena Vista for a city-park picnic, along the Arkansas River. We have been to Buena Vista many times and it remains a favorite spot for us. We have run the headwaters of the Arkansas through Brown’s Canyon, one of the most awesome river canyons in Colorado. With the Collegant Peaks on the west side of the valley, and the headwaters of the Arkansas River adjacent to the east side, it is one of the most picturesque valleys in Colorado.

After lunch, we followed on down the Arkansas River to Salida, a town we have passed through many times, but on this occasion spent the night and a day touring the area. Our accommodations at Loyal Duke Lodge were pet-friendly, with a nice room, and Daisy enjoyed the walks around town. Loyal Duke Lodge actually honors a “loyal dog” which became the town mascot after his master died. The town erected a nice memorial monument to Duke’s memory. The old downtown has a grand collection of 1880’s buildings with lots of stone structures. The new Riverwalk is a real showplace for the town. It strolls right down beside the Arkansas River and feels like you’re totally alone with the river and huge Cottonwood and Elms, lining the riverbank. They also have a nice whitewater kayak course long the river and a historic railroad exhibit.

Our next leg was heading east over Monarch Pass (11,312’) and the Continental Divide, one of my favorite high mountain passes. Monarch Pass is widely considered one of the most scenic in Colorado, offering a panoramic view of the southern end of the Sawatch Range, from the summit, and views of the eastern and western slope of the Continental Divide.

I tend to classify Colorado mountain passes into categories and subcategories;

For example:

·       Federal and State highways

1.  Paved State Highway passes

2.  Paved 2-lane and 4-lane Federal and Interstate Highway passes

·       County roads

1.     Paved/Improved surface road passes

2.     Gravel road passes

3.     Four-wheel-drive passes

4.     Foot traffic only passes

The passes have very different challenges and risks, so it’s important to know what you’re getting into before you drive. Weather is the main factor and can spell disaster if you’re not prepared. Surprises are always possible, like the surprise we got on the Plateau River, when the road to Rifle turned into an impossible road for our vehicle. We had to backtrack but that’s a story that encourages high mountain, back-road exploration, a major tourist attraction in the Colorado Rockies. Given trails that only Mountain Goats can tread, man will build machines to take him there! On the high-country, 4-wheel drive roads you will see them all, as they seem like little ants from above or below. I’ll always remember the time that my friend Tom got caught in an early winter storm while back-country skiing up on Mosquito Pass, and had to abandon his 4-WD until the next spring thaw. It was buried in snow all winter and when the forest service plowed the road in the spring, he dug it out of the sideroad spot where it had spent the winter, it started right up and he drove it home.

On the western slope of Monarch Pass and the Continental Divide, we had a day and night in Gunnison. We drove up to Crested Butte, an old mining town that has rehabilitated (debilitated) into a popular winter ski resort and summer outdoor attraction. Premiere trout-fishing rivers abound in the area and it brings in loads of profitable outfitting and guide opportunities for the locals. Crested Butte is also a tremendously popular place to just shop, dine, and play in the great mountain outdoors.

The East, Slate, and Gunnison Rivers combine to create Gold Medal trout fisheries and the fishermen flock here to enjoy the sport. It is astonishing to observe what some fishermen spend on equipment, guides, and accommodations, in order to fish Colorado, mainly a catch and release obligation. For a rural Mississippi boy like myself, we cut poles made-up rigs, dug worms and went fishing, never releasing, but always frying-up fresh fish. So, I’ll just be a spectator of these Colorado Gold Medal fisheries!

My observation of these splendid mountain rivers is that they should always remain wild and free. From a practical standpoint, increasing development and water demands eventually means more dams in Colorado. The increasing population will demand it and compromises will inevitably be made.

Known locally as “Gunny”, Gunnison, lies thirty minutes south of Crested Butte in the heart of the Rockies. Although remote, it offers plenty of fun things to do. There aren’t many towns around Gunnison, making it an ideal place to get away to. The surrounding area is filled with year-round recreation.

Gunnison is rather like a home on the range surrounded by ski areas, a national recreation area, national park, lakes, rivers and mesas and high-mountain sage that looks like it’s right out of a John Wayne Western movie. The city, which feels like a cattleman's town, is the kind of place where you don't feel like a tourist as much as somebody visiting the folks.

Gunnison has the Western Colorado University, and lots of young people populate the recreation areas and nightspots year-round. Tourism abounds year-round with winter and summer sports. Our accommodations at Gunnison’s, Water Wheel Inn, were pet-friendly and provided all of our creature comforts. All of our hotels on this trip provided breakfast, but this is the only and first-ever one that served us hot homemade biscuits.

After a nice visit, a night’s rest and an exploration in Gunnison, we headed west on the last day of our westside, eastside/eastside, westside circle tour of the Continental Divide in SW Colorado. Heading west, out of Gunnison, we were on a familiar track and we stopped off at the Curecanti canyon, confluence of the Cimarron and Gunnison rivers. A new experience was a hike down the trail, along the Gunnison River, into the steep, narrows of the canyon. It was awesome! Even Daisy felt exhilarated to see, smell, hear and taste the depths of the Gunnison River canyon. They also have a nice display of the old narrow-gage Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad which ran through the Gunnison Canyon. The old trestle with an engine and service cars are displayed, instigating wonder about how it was constructed.

On this last day of our excursion, we crossed Cerro summit which divides the watershed of the Cimarron River to the east and the Uncompahgre River to the west, both of which eventually flow into the Gunnison River. We headed west, back to Montrose and then south, to Ridgeway State Park. What a wonderful four-days in the wilds of the Colorado Rockies.

Wednesday, August 14, 2019

When you go to Colorado on vacation, you won’t get up HERE in the family car! Corkscrew is a high-country route that definitely lives up to its name. This picture is at 13,000 feet, with a 360-degree view of most of the San Juan Range. This area has experienced uplift, became a volcanic caldera, then glaciers shaped the cirques. Subsequently, miners punched holes all over, in search of the gold and silver, creating some of the richest strikes in Colorado, that are now high-altitude ghost-towns.

We went 4-wheeling up to Corkscrew Pass, Hurricane Pass, and California Pass. The day was clear and cool, with no wind. This is Colorado high-country with stunning views!

PLUM GOOD IDEAS

Not sure what to pair plums with in cooking? I always turn to the Vegetarian Flavor Bible for flavor combo ideas. Here are a few ingredients that pair really well with plums!

Ginger

Cinnamon

Lemon

Honey

Oranges

Balsamic vinegar

Sesame

Other stone fruits (cherries, apricots, almonds, nectarines)

https://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/slideshow/plum-recipes

Colorado jalea ciruela rojo Red Plum Jelly of Colorado

Tuesday, August 20, 2019

Last night, at the Group Event Facility, we had our final monthly picnic, sponsored by Friends of Ridgway State Park, for employees, seasonal staff, and volunteers. It was another delightful picnic, with delicious food, and additionally it was recognition and appreciation night for the various work-groups. We all received a “park logo” travel-bag gift, a practical and useful article. It has been an enjoyable summer at Ridgway State Park and we have made new friends, explored the area, sampled the food and culture, and thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful San Juan Mountains. It’s true that the San Juans will “steal your heart in a summer”.

We also received a complementary “Colorado State Parks Pass”, and we plan to do some camping and exploring around the State Parks, in the next two months, or until the winter weather drives us south. We’re looking forward to the Colorado “Fall colors”.

Peak fall foliage usually arrives in Colorado between mid-September and mid-October, varying by season and mostly depending on temperatures. And if you are still wondering what makes this state so unique in autumn, witness how it strikes aspen gold as the aspen trees turn amber in the mountains. Colorado is home to the largest number of aspen trees in the United States. Colorado has five different climate zones, meaning that the state has one of the most extended periods of autumn colors of any in the United States.

And how about combining the beauty of fall leaves with the mating rituals of large elk in the mountains? The dusk and dawn are the best times to hear the elk bugling. The distinctive mating call is unmistakable and sounds like a bugle's blast. It’s a primordial sound that signals Fall to me.

Today, we drove up to Delta to visit Fort Uncompahgre and the Confluence Park. Fort Uncompahgre, on the Santa Fe Trail, was a fur trading post constructed in 1828 by Antoine Robidoux, a trader based out of Mexican Santa Fe. The post was situated about two miles down from the confluence of the Gunnison River and the Uncompahgre River, near the present-day community of Delta, Colorado. Robidoux chose the area because it afforded abundant timber for construction and firewood as well as pasture for pack animals. It was also a favored gathering spot of the Ute Indians and a natural ford nearby offered an easy river crossing. Its design was more to secure goods and livestock than to be defensive, and was abandoned in 1844 when hostilities broke out between Ute Indians and Mexicans. The fort is a National Historic Site and well worth the time to pay a visit!

Montrose and surrounding area deserves my documented description because we have admired it all summer. The dominant terrain within the quadrangle is typified by shale badlands, called the “Adobe hills” or, simply, the “Adobes” by local residents. This area can be divided into a high part (HAH), which contains moderately steep shale ridges and hills and deeply incised valleys, and a low part (LAH) that features broad basins and low shale hills. A nearby structural geomorphic feature of note, the Uncompahgre Uplift, forms a northeastward-dipping escarpment several miles to the west of the quadrangle. The foot of its dip slope lies along the western edge of the Uncompahgre River valley, in the adjacent Delta quadrangle. Montrose is in the south end of the Uncompahgre valley, and is built on the Uncompahgre river. It is surrounded by, to the north, Grand Mesa, to the east, the Black Canyon, to the south, the San Juan Mountains, and to the west the Uncompahgre Plateau. The valley is arid, and is only arable due to the water from the Gunnison Tunnel. The adobe hills always puzzle newcomers, wondering if they’re manmade or natural. It quickly becomes obvious that they’re way to large and numerous to be manmade. Another stunning work of “mother nature”!