Around the San Joaquin Valley

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Driving down California’s central valley is always an interesting experience for us. According to the California Department of Agriculture, 360 different agricultural products are produced in the central valley and it’s done very efficiently. The valley is 40-60 miles wide and 450 miles long, lying between the Cascades and Serra Nevada mountains on the east and the Coast Range on the west. The Sacramento and the San Joaquin Rivers, the two main watersheds of the valley, provide for irrigation, recreation and wildlife habitat. We had a pleasant noonday picnic, under a shady Sycamore, at the city park, in Williams. It was a very agreeable day but we were glad to arrive to a campsite in Sacramento.

We took an RV site, at the Cal Exposition Center, on the American River, California’s State Fairgrounds and Convention Center. Last night, we took a drive-around tour, to the Sacramento Old-Town, the State Capital, Sutter’s Fort, and around town. Sacramento, situated at the confluence of the American and Sacramento Rivers, is a beautiful city with a vivacious personality. We have found the people to be warm and friendly, like a small-town atmosphere. After a full day, we were glad to return to our RV for a quiet, restful night.

After a full-day of exploring Sacramento, we took a walk on the American River, along the River Trail Network, a favorite outdoor venue for the Sacramento people. This extensive trail system, with rest areas, picnic areas, and shady, paved paths, provides access to the rivers, for bicycles and hikers. Everyone that we passed extended their greetings like we were someone they knew. We didn’t meet a single stranger in Sacramento! We could live here!

10-16

On Friday afternoon, we headed down to Stockton and took a campsite on the Sacramento River, in the river delta, just west of Lodi. The campground is situated on Potato Slough, a tributary of the Sacramento River. A large marina is located just adjacent to the campground and there are abundant and various boats moored here, both pleasure and commercial. The river delta has numerous drawbridges to facilitate the movement of these watercraft along the wide, flat delta.

The highlight of our visit to Lodi and Stockton was a nice visit with cousins Deannie and Gerry, in their lovely home. Deannie spoiled us with scrumptious dinners on Friday and Saturday evenings. (Thanks again, cousins)!

We also got to watch the televised football games that we were interested in (LSU, Mississippi, Mississippi State, and Southern Miss).

Another highlight was a trip through the fruit and nut orchards to Linden, Gerry’s childhood home. Driving through the geometrically-planted orchards, with the trees overhanging the roads, was so extraordinary. The predominately family-owned orchards represent several generations of family collaboration and cooperation, and the homesteads are situated in the interior of the orchards. It was also interesting to see the specialized machinery, irrigation, and equipment, utilized in the various orchards. We had fun identifying the crops, and how the particular paraphernalia and equipment was used!

 Who said: "whoever could make two ears of corn, or two blades of grass, to grow upon a spot of ground where only one grew before, would deserve better of mankind, and do more essential service to his country, than the whole race of politicians put together.”

South of Stockton, we saw the old (1832) Hudson Bay Company’s, French Camp, on the San Joaquin River, the southern terminus of the Oregon-California Trail from Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River.

10-18 Sunday Afternoon

We continued south on CA 99 to Chowchilla, and then east to Hensley Lake, a US Army Corps of Engineers lake and campground. We plan to stay five nights in this remote campsite, in the western-slope, foothills of the Sierra Nevada Range. The foothills have granite and basalt outcroppings that just protrude from the dry, brown-grass slopes, like the backbone of an ancient creature. The campground is surrounded predominately by Live Oaks, some Pines, and a few Eucalyptus trees. The trees host lots of birds and mammals. A large covey of California Quail roost in the brush along the creek every night. We have seen Coyotes, Prairie Dogs, Rabbits, Acorn Woodpeckers, Oak Titmouse, White-crowned Sparrows, Coopers Hawk, Red Tailed Hawk, Golden Eagle, and fortunately, no Rattlesnakes. Quietly observing, we witnessed two Acorn Woodpeckers cooperatively enjoying a cool drink from a dripping water spigot, without their usual bickering and chatter. We also observed them storing acorns in the metal-roof moldings of the picnic sheds too. (Industrious and expedient little creatures)! The flood-control/water management lake is very low and the steep boat ramp slopes down into the dry lake bed, ending far from and above the paltry water level. One could only launch an “air boat” on this lake and there’s plenty of dry air to cruise around on!

Late yesterday afternoon, observing the distant Sierra Nevada’s to the west, we identified Mt. Henry (12,196ft) 50 degrees, East, northeast, in the Kettle Ridge Range, (just south of the San Joaquin headwaters), and Mt. Goddard 90 degrees due east (13,568), in the Ragged Spur Range, and about 60 miles distance is Mt. Darwin (13,830) 71 degrees East northeast, in the Black Divide Range. We wondered if there were any Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail hikers on the trail, up by Mt. Henry and Florence Lake, along the headwaters of San Joaquin River.     

Auspiciously, we have the campground exclusively, with only the occasional USACE Park Ranger driving by. We be chill ‘in!

Just minutes ago, a lone bicyclist came riding in and joined us for a campsite. In talking to this neighbor, I discovered that he is a long-distance touring rider with a lot of experience. He is an interesting fellow and a worthy story to add to our memories. Check him out: Beat Helm BETZGI.CH

Friday, October 23, 2015

Today, we continue south to Bakersfield and a visit with Aunt Bobbie and Terry’s sister Michelle (in Maricopa). Arriving in Bakersfield at mid-afternoon, we enjoyed a visit and delightful dinner with Bobbie. Bobbie’s Crump 3-C Ranch is right in the middle of the huge Ag fields but her home is an “oasis” with large trees and an exquisitely landscaped lawn surrounding the house and farm-buildings. Sam and Daisy seem to relish the freedom to roam and explore the enclosed property. Bobbie’s new dog “Chipper” is getting all the attention and he terrorizes Daisy.

We relaxed and talked on the front porch until dark-thirty and then we retired from a long day of travel in the San Joaquin Valley, on a warm afternoon. Great day!

Sat. 1-24

This morning, we awoke to the crowing roosters, at the Crump 3-C Ranch, reminiscing back to the days when Mr. Thomas Baker settled on the banks of the Kern River (1863) and decided this would be a superb valley for a ranch. So, Baker’s field later became the subject of Buck Owens 1973 hit, “Streets of Bakersfield” song with that famous “Bakersfield sound”.

Buck said, “it goes something like this”:

I came I here looking for something

I couldn't find anywhere else

Hey, I'm not trying to be nobody

Just want a chance to be myself

I've done a thousand miles of thumbin'

I've worn holes in both my heels

Trying to find me something better

On the streets of Bakersfield

You don't know me, but you don't like me

You say you care less how I feel

But how many of you that sit and judge me

Have ever walked the streets of Bakersfield?

Spent some time in San Francisco

Spent a night there in the can

They threw this drunk man in my jail cell

Took fifteen dollars from that man

Left him my watch and my old house key

Don't want folks thinkin' that I'd steal

Then I thanked him as I was leaving, and

I headed for the streets of Bakersfield

You don't know me, but you don't like me

You say you care less how I feel

But how many of you that sit and judge me

Have ever walked the streets of Bakersfield?

You don't know me, but you don't like me

You say you care less how I feel

But how many of you that sit and judge me

Have ever walked the streets of Bakersfield?

How many of you that sit and judge me

Have ever walked the streets of Bakersfield?

Later this morning, I went back to the olive trees and tasted a ripe black olive, right off the tree. It was terrible bitter and I was informed that the olives have to be processed before they become the tasty black olives in the super market.

We also got to watch the televised football games that we were interested in (LSU, Mississippi, Mississippi State, and Southern Miss).

The Willamette Valley, then Southwest Oregon, and into Northern California

First weekend of October 2015

We had a tremendous weekend in Eugene. We visited Terry’s folks and spent some quality time in several local parks. On Saturday afternoon and evening, we watched Corbin play football at the OU Denzen Stadium, home of the “Ducks”, followed by a light dinner at the River City Mall.

On Sunday, we met Don and Bobbie for lunch at an outdoor café on the Willamette River, just next to the University of Oregon. It was a good visit with a high school friend (and wife), who now call Eugene home. We talked so much that we forgot to get a picture. 

Next, we met up with Ariel and Corbin for a farewell walk in the park and made some pictures. Afterwards, Terry and I drove around Eugene and stopped off at the famous Red Wagon Ice Cream Shop on the way home. We had a fabulous weekend and now we are completely exhausted.

On Monday, we departed Eugene and drove up the headwaters of the Willamette River, over Willamette Pass, then down to Klamath Falls. We saw some spectacular fall colors going over the pass. On the eastern slope, we encountered Aspens (about 4-thousand feet), showing their regal, golden fall colors, like a patchwork among the green conifers and Ponderosa pines.  

We plan three days here to rest, relax, catch-up on some chores, and daytrip, etc.

Klamath Falls has no falls, it’s more of a rapid, on the Link River, where the water flows rapidly over the rocks. The dam now controls the flow and there’s seldom any significant rapids. The entire valley is predominately agriculture in the lower elevations and timber up the mountains. Water for irrigation is the most important resource for the farmers and ranchers. Talking to a rancher, it’s not uncommon to get seven cuttings of alfalfa, which is used for winter feed AND trucked to the large dairy operations in California. The area has geothermal features which are used for heating in town and in the country. They just bore a well and immediately, they have an endless source of hot water that can be used for heating.  

What a beautiful place.

The day was cloudy so the blue of the lake was not as pretty in this photo

Aren''t we sweet here at Crater Lake

Wed. 10-7

Today, we head up to Creator Lake and Fort Klamath, for some sightseeing. After a full-day at Creator Lake and Fort Klamath, we were glad to return to the camp for a fine dinner.

Crater Lake National Park is Oregon’s only National Park but it is at the top of the list of Oregon’s seven wonders. The 33-mile drive around the rim reveals the unmatched, dramatic views of the volcanic scenery and beauty of the park. We stopped at the Visitor Center for a video presentation on the park’s significance and the lake’s volcanic past. At the Crater Lake Lodge, overlooking the lake, we had a picnic lunch and made some pictures. The Rim Village Gift Shop had some interesting souvenirs and a welcome coffee shop (it was a cool day). Just outside is a short rim-walk with stunning views of the crater and lake. It depicts the story of how Mount Mazama:

Grew to 12,000 feet over millions of years

Blew 12 cubic miles of volcanic material in a pyroclastic blast 7,700 years ago

Fell or caved in after blast, leaving a huge crater

Filled over centuries to a depth of 1,943 feet of water, six miles across

The lake is a clear, pure, brilliant blue (grape cool-aid blue) at 7,100-feet elevation and has a 143-foor clarity.

At Discovery Point, we fed Clark’s Nutcrackers and Gray Jays right out of our hands (They’re well trained by millions of visitors)! and enjoyed some walks with our dogs. The elevation slowed old Sam but he didn’t stop.

We also visited Fort Klamath (1863), a U.S. Army outpost down in the valley, which provided protection to settlers and the Oregon Trail immigrants. Sixty-five soldiers were killed in the Modoc Indian War of 1867, but they were disinterred from the fort cemetery and moved to the San Francisco Presidio in 1888, after the fort was de-commissioned. Most of these men were Oregonians and, being deceased, had no say in the matter. After 1888, a local church cemetery association took over the graveyard and it’s still in use. The graves of the Modoc Indians, who were executed for killing the soldiers, are the only remaining graves from the military occupation period.  

Thursday, October 8, 2015

After lunch today, we headed south from Klamath, on US 97, and said goodbye to Oregon and hello to California. US 97 is a beautiful drive, with loads of rubber-necking fascinations, like the ag fields of Butte Valley, the basalt-covered hills, the truck-loads of onions, Lake Shasta, the different trees, at varying elevations, but not much “fall colors”.  

Mt. Shasta was in our front view for a long distance and it was a clear day, making it very impressive, with its glaciers and multiple cones. Mt. Shasta is second to Mt. Whitney, but (me thinks) Shasta is more handsome. Along the route, we observed the Castle Crags, a most impressive group of towering, granite spires, rising above the upper Sacramento River canyon. When we encountered Lake Shasta, it was sad to see the bare slopes, which were once covered by the cold, clear waters of Lake Shasta. The marinas have lowered as far as the ramps would allow, and now foot-paths are used to get down to the boats. The huge Dam now looks like a colossal, overbuilt structure because of the very low water level. The Dam is still producing power, providing recreation, and feeding the irrigation district, but it’s controversial.

 

Next, we stopped at Costco in Redding to feed dogs, have dinner, and shop. Our next leg was a climb east, to Shingletown and the Lassen Volcano National Park, where we took a campsite for the night.

Friday 10-9

We spent the day at Lassen Volcanic National Park, situated just south of the Cascade Range, just north of the Serra Nevada Mountains, the Great Basin Desert to the east, and the Sacramento River Valley to the west. This convergence point contributes to the diversity of ecosystems and abundant flora and fauna, found in the park. Traveling from the west into the park, you go from 1000 to 8200 feet over twenty-five miles, on some really exciting roads, with stunning overlooks and access to loads of hiking trails. (Terry was leaning away from the precipices, too long at sea-level, on the coast!) Lassen Peak (10,487ft) is the centerpiece of the park, one of the largest plug dome volcanoes in the world.

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at Manzanita Lake, one of the glacial lakes, where we were joined by a friendly, panhandling Mallard hen.

The park illustrates Earth’s powerful forces in all four volcano types: (Shield, cinder cone, plug dome, and composite), not to underestimate the several geothermal areas, with boiling caldrons, hissing fumaroles, gurgling mud pots, all smelling of hydrogen sulfide. The entire park is like a Mars-scape, with all that rock and material coming from the volcanoes. This was an appropriate culmination of the Volcano Legacy Scenic Byway that we encountered and traveled in the Cascades of Washington, Oregon, and northern California. We loved it!

10 October 2015

We made it back to the Sacramento River at Redding and plan to rest-up on the weekend. We plan to watch college football, shop, dine, church, and sightsee the Riverwalk. We made a trip to Costco and Walmart to stock up on the appropriate supplies.

Sunday 10/11

Last night, we took a walk along the Sacramento River Walk, a favorite recreational asset for the people of Redding and visitors alike, and part of a larger recreation trail network. The walk is situated along both sides of the river, with pedestrian bridges and public parks interspersed along the improved path. We had to walk slowly because our dogs wanted to take in every smell (p-mail).   

We noticed that the low-head dam structures have fish-ladders, so we assume that anadromous fish migrations are still significant. The downtown area was busy with diners, shoppers, and the “Saturday Night Crowd”, in the bars and taverns. 

This morning, we attended Mass at St. Joseph Catholic Church, in the downtown area. The downtown area looked very different on Sunday morning than it did last night.

We have enjoyed our weekend at Redding, Shasta County and the Sacramento River Valley!

More Ramblin Oregon and back in the Willamette Valley of Oregon

Mr. Hood

Continuing east through the Columbia River Gorge, we had lunch at Hood River and then stopped off for treats at the Dalles. Approaching the Dalles, the Gorge changes from lush green to arid desert, very abruptly. The weather also changes from cool, windy, humid to hot, still, and dry, with the smell of Sage in the air. The Sage and Rabbit Brush are summoning our allergic reactions, so sneezing and sniffing are in vogue. It’s also prudent to watch out for Rattlesnakes.

We called-it-a-day at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Campground (Lepage) , located at the confluence of the John Day and Columbia Rivers. This was an 1805 Lewis and Clark campsite and it’s named for John Baptiste Lepage, one of their Corps of Discovery members. It’s a clear, cool, moon-lit night, with the Canada Geese chatting along the river. The Fall Chinook Salmon run is going strong, with the Native Americans camped nearby as they engage in their ancestral fishing customs. Salmon fishing provides them with a food source that is also a spiritual gift to them AND they sell to the public for cash. They sell Jacks (Chinook Salmon that return from the ocean early (like two years old), and weigh approximately 10 pounds. The best fillets are from the mature Chinook Salmon that run twenty to thirty pounds. Cooking and eating fresh salmon on the grill is inimitable and we will never again be satisfied with frozen fillets from the markets.

The Indians throw-up camps consisting of old camper trailers, tents, makeshift huts, from cardboard, tin, and the infamous blue plastic tarps. They stay as long as the Salmon run lasts, then they return to home and go about their usual occupations. I talked to two different groups of Indian fisherman, from the Warm Springs Reservation in Central Oregon and the Umatilla in Washington, respectively. By treaty, the Indians can fish year-round, forever. (Unless the Government decides to do something different!) This LePage Park campground afforded a most impressive sunset and sunrise.

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Yesterday afternoon, we arrived at Hermiston, in Umatilla County, Oregon and made our camp at Hat Rock State Park, located on the Columbia River. Hat Rock, a Devils Tower-like basalt outcropping, looks like its name implies (just like a top-hat). The rock was mentioned in the Lewis and Clarks Journals as a significant landmark on the river. The State Park is an oasis with a green-grass, irrigated picnic area and large Locust shade trees. We saw deer, California Quail, hawks, Magpies, and turkeys.This area of Oregon is a desert but with irrigation it has become a garden-spot, producing a wide variety of produce and agricultural crops. This is an area that utilizes those pivot-irrigation, round crop fields that look so strange from the air. Those round fields are immediately bordered by desert, where the watering stops, and along the edges is where you had better watch for Rattlesnakes. The discriminating Rattlesnake is drawn to these borders in anticipation of a nice rodent-smorgasbord.

We had a nice visit with Terry’s folks here, including a tasty barbecue lunch, and a walk in the park. This evening, it’s college football on television and rest and relaxation.

Sunset at our camp on the John Day River.

Sunday, September 27, 2015

This evening, we’re back on the John Day River, at a spot where we can enjoy the exceptional “Blood Moon”. This is a remote, quiet park with cozy little sites and shade trees, which provide pleasant, Comfortable shade for river-watching.

Monday 9-27

Last night’s “Blood Moon” was impressive but we had trouble staying awake for the entire event. With no phone or television, the quite of the hills and sounds of nature and the river lulled us into a totally relaxed state.

This morning, I walked Daisy down the river and came upon a small group of Native Americans, camped under a large Cottonwood tree, fishing and drying Salmon. As I watched them, each with their appointed activity, it occurred to me that this is exactly the same scene that the Lewis and Clark Expedition encountered here in October, 1805. The only thing different is the camp, with its Cabella’s free-standing tents and the prevalent Wal-Mart “blue tarps”.

This morning is windy and cold, ushering the definite feel of Fall that comes with October. Today, we plan to travel down around Mitchell and spend a few days in scrutiny of the John Day Fossil Beds, Painted Hills, and Smith Rock. Looks like we’ll have some beautiful Fall weather around the area.  

The John Day Fossil Beds and Painted Hills National Monument are colorful evidence of volcanic activity, environmental changes, and ancient plant and animal life in eastern Oregon. We enjoyed our visit and picnic lunch at the site.

Yesterday afternoon, we visited Smith Rock, just west of Prineville. Smith Rock is a sanctuary of majestic rock spires along Crooked Rive, in central Oregon’s high desert. It’s an internationally renowned destination for rock climbing, offering challenges for beginners to experts. It’s a remote place but it was packed with people until dark.They also have fabulous hiking, horse, and bicycle trails, with lots of wildlife to observe. We are really glad that we went to see it.

Awoke this first day of October at the Expo Center RV Park in Redmond, Oregon, on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains. We had a beautiful sunset with the backlit mountains in the foreground, some with snowcaps.

This morning we can see the “Sisters” mountains, situated between here and Bend. We spent the morning in the Expo Complex and toured the OSU Extension Service garden, enjoying the collection of native wildflowers, shrubs, trees, and vegetable garden. Most of the vegetable garden was showing the effects of the recent first-frost, but the fruits were still there, stranded by the dying plants. Our dogs were happy to join us but had to be on short-lease in the gardens.

Next, we headed west up the Santiam Pass towards Eugene. Along the east slope we passed picturesque Sisters village and then stunning views of Mount Washington and the “Sisters” mountains. On the west slope, we followed McKenzie River down and stopped for a picnic lunch at a scenic setting on the river. Oregon’s Cascade Mountains are minor compared to Colorado’s “fourteeners”, but Oregon’s grades are steeper than most Colorado Passes, so when puling a load, judiciousness is advised in choosing a route.

Going into Eugene, we got a “check engine” light on the truck, so after shopping Fred Myer and dinner, we stopped at AutoZone to read the truck computer codes. We took a camp at Coburg and installed new spark plugs and plug-coils, so the truck is back to normal. My AutoZone guy was the best at customer service. He went out of the way to make sure we got the parts that we needed.

Friday 10-2

Today, we shopped the Mall, had lunch, and rested back at camp. Over the weekend, we visit Terry’s folks and have a lunch date with my high school classmate.

See ya!